****Update***** Specclutch.com has stated that they plan on releasing a lightweight flywheel for the 6 speed some time next month. They already sell stage 1 through 7 clutch kits for them and they are going to email me when available; they did not quote a price. Turbokits.com is also working with Fidanza on a Flywheel, but no exact date was given as to it's release. Road Race Motorsports said that they are not going to invest in it's development until more people step up wanting to mod their Koup's. I contacted TWM about a short throw shifter and they said one is on the books and should be seen around the fall, so we have some good things coming. I think if we all just start contacting these companies about the parts we want to see, then they will accelerate the process of releasing them. Economics 101, Supply and Demand. *******Update*********
Well, I finally determined that I was stupid enough to attempt the CDV valve removal that many have asked about, but didn't want to try. To make it short and sweet, I will tell you how I did it, but first I WARN you that it is not a good idea unless you have an extra vehicle, a lot of patience, a garage.
Let me say that I 100% recommend waiting until you install an aftermarket flywheel/clutch and have this done at the same time. The shop probably won't even charge extra and it would take them 5 min. to get it out. That being said it definitely makes the car shift better, no questions asked. No more stalling or weird gear grabbing. The throttle still takes some getting used to, but none the less, it feels like a normal shift now. Definitely should be taken out, but I recommend by a professional if you value your time and blood pressure.
To recap, the Clutch Delay Valve is what causes the horrible shifting/stalling with the clutch. In the 2.4L with the 6 speed it is located inside the clutch slave cylinder, which is located in the bell housing. The bottom line is the hydraulic input line. It makes a 90 degree right turn after entering the bell housing. Pics are located at the bottom. You will need:
A 60 degree 12mm offset box wrench. Not from Sears as their's is only 45 degree and it doesn't seem to reach properly. I got mine from Harbor Freight for $10.
Super Glue (The good stuff).
Flexible strong magnet.
Small inspection mirror.
Flexible light.
Brake Fluid.
Standard wrench/socket set.
Flexible Grabber (Recommended)
Paper clip, hanger, compressed air or something to get the actual CDV out.
Someone to hold a light and help you bleed the clutch system afterwards.
A good solid prayer that you don't drop anything in the bell housing.
First you will want to remove the air cleaner tubes and I suggest the unbolting and setting the cleaner itself up on the fuse panel to allow more space. You will then need to disconnect the quick connect on the input line that goes into the bell housing. Make sure you have something to catch the fluid that is going to come out. After that, you will need to take off the quick connect adapter that is still attached to the elbow going into the bell housing. Once the adapter is removed, you can then slip the 12mm offset box wrench over the line and inside the bell housing. This is where it gets really tricky and really scary. You will have to ever so gently bend both of the elbows to make room for the wrench. Do this at your own risk. It is very scary. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THERE IS A COPPER WASHER (NOT MAGNETIC) AT THE END OF THE FITTING THAT IS INSIDE OF THE BELL HOUSING. IF YOU DROP IT IN THE HOUSING YOU WILL NOT BE HAPPY! The elbow actually screws into another adapter which then screws into the clutch slave cylinder. The CDV is physically inside the slave cylinder, so the adapter will have to come out. There are two ways this can go, 1) when turning the 12mm nut it actually unscrewed the adapter instead, causing it to come out as one whole assembly. This actually worked to my benefit, but I cannot say that it will be like that for everyone. This process sucked and at one point I thought I broke the line, but thankfully didn't. 2) the elbow comes loose leaving the adapter screwed in still. At that point I'm not sure what to tell you cause it didn't happen to me. Make sure you buy an offset box wrench set and you may be able to get it. Putting it back together is 4 billion times harder that taking it apart. The copper washer is on the adapter that screws into the slave. Once you unscrew the adapter the copper washer has a high chance of falling. Getting the CDV valve out is even more frustrating. I used compressed air blowing through the bleeder side. This gave me more issues as it did come out, with some brake fluid as well. Fortunately, not enough to cause any slippage issue. Long story short, the washer and CDV assembly which consists of a small spring and metal plate, all fell into the bell housing. After several frustrating days, I ended up having to seperate the bell housing from the motor to retrieve the parts. Transmission shop said $500 plus to do the work. Forget that. My only recommendation, if you are crazy enough to do this, would be to glue the washer to the adapter, which is what I did, upon reassembly so that it doesn't fall back into the bell housing. Good luck if you dare.
Well, I finally determined that I was stupid enough to attempt the CDV valve removal that many have asked about, but didn't want to try. To make it short and sweet, I will tell you how I did it, but first I WARN you that it is not a good idea unless you have an extra vehicle, a lot of patience, a garage.
Let me say that I 100% recommend waiting until you install an aftermarket flywheel/clutch and have this done at the same time. The shop probably won't even charge extra and it would take them 5 min. to get it out. That being said it definitely makes the car shift better, no questions asked. No more stalling or weird gear grabbing. The throttle still takes some getting used to, but none the less, it feels like a normal shift now. Definitely should be taken out, but I recommend by a professional if you value your time and blood pressure.
To recap, the Clutch Delay Valve is what causes the horrible shifting/stalling with the clutch. In the 2.4L with the 6 speed it is located inside the clutch slave cylinder, which is located in the bell housing. The bottom line is the hydraulic input line. It makes a 90 degree right turn after entering the bell housing. Pics are located at the bottom. You will need:
A 60 degree 12mm offset box wrench. Not from Sears as their's is only 45 degree and it doesn't seem to reach properly. I got mine from Harbor Freight for $10.
Super Glue (The good stuff).
Flexible strong magnet.
Small inspection mirror.
Flexible light.
Brake Fluid.
Standard wrench/socket set.
Flexible Grabber (Recommended)
Paper clip, hanger, compressed air or something to get the actual CDV out.
Someone to hold a light and help you bleed the clutch system afterwards.
A good solid prayer that you don't drop anything in the bell housing.
First you will want to remove the air cleaner tubes and I suggest the unbolting and setting the cleaner itself up on the fuse panel to allow more space. You will then need to disconnect the quick connect on the input line that goes into the bell housing. Make sure you have something to catch the fluid that is going to come out. After that, you will need to take off the quick connect adapter that is still attached to the elbow going into the bell housing. Once the adapter is removed, you can then slip the 12mm offset box wrench over the line and inside the bell housing. This is where it gets really tricky and really scary. You will have to ever so gently bend both of the elbows to make room for the wrench. Do this at your own risk. It is very scary. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT THERE IS A COPPER WASHER (NOT MAGNETIC) AT THE END OF THE FITTING THAT IS INSIDE OF THE BELL HOUSING. IF YOU DROP IT IN THE HOUSING YOU WILL NOT BE HAPPY! The elbow actually screws into another adapter which then screws into the clutch slave cylinder. The CDV is physically inside the slave cylinder, so the adapter will have to come out. There are two ways this can go, 1) when turning the 12mm nut it actually unscrewed the adapter instead, causing it to come out as one whole assembly. This actually worked to my benefit, but I cannot say that it will be like that for everyone. This process sucked and at one point I thought I broke the line, but thankfully didn't. 2) the elbow comes loose leaving the adapter screwed in still. At that point I'm not sure what to tell you cause it didn't happen to me. Make sure you buy an offset box wrench set and you may be able to get it. Putting it back together is 4 billion times harder that taking it apart. The copper washer is on the adapter that screws into the slave. Once you unscrew the adapter the copper washer has a high chance of falling. Getting the CDV valve out is even more frustrating. I used compressed air blowing through the bleeder side. This gave me more issues as it did come out, with some brake fluid as well. Fortunately, not enough to cause any slippage issue. Long story short, the washer and CDV assembly which consists of a small spring and metal plate, all fell into the bell housing. After several frustrating days, I ended up having to seperate the bell housing from the motor to retrieve the parts. Transmission shop said $500 plus to do the work. Forget that. My only recommendation, if you are crazy enough to do this, would be to glue the washer to the adapter, which is what I did, upon reassembly so that it doesn't fall back into the bell housing. Good luck if you dare.
I'm glad that someone finally did this! Thanks for the heads up about the washer+cdv+spring possibly falling into the bell housing. That sucks that it happened to you though
