Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Edmonton, AB
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Good information. I would add one other suggestion. Recently I did an oil change and ran into the same problem and I couldn't use the metal ramps because they contacted the front air dam. What I eventually did was to trim about 1/2 of an inch from a 4x4 (3.5x3.5 actually) piece of scrap lumber to 3" thick and then use a chop saw to make a cut against the grain so the wood wouldn't split than if I had made the cut with the grain. It was a tight fit but it worked. I jacked the car and then placed a large block under one front tire so the car would not be sitting entirely on the jack itself but the tire would sit securely on the block of wood. Then I let the jack down so it was just snug and the weight of the car on the the large block of wood which measures 11"x11"x5". (I think these were scrap pieces of wood from a construction project; I've had them for 40 years.)
This provided safety and sufficient room to easily get to the drain plug and the oil filter. The jack itself was an inexpensive $25 floor jack I purchased from Wal-Mart.
The pinch welds are a significant issue since the floor jack will slightly damage these using only the jack by itself. So it is worthwhile to have a system that actually works and with safety. The alternative is to use the jack provided by the manufacturer but it takes a long time to get it up to sufficient height and is a pain in the neck to manipulate and it also sits on a narrow base and still requires jack stands or some method of ensuring safety.
I wonder about the tool that is used with the jacks as shown in the link. What's to keep it from shifting and dropping the car? I'm not clear on that.
Just an FYI if you want to use ramps you can pick up low profile ramps which have a more gradual incline or use some wood to lay down and bring the front of the car up higher before it hits the ramp.