Disclaimer: I am in no way responsible for your actions. If you melt your headlight, don't come crying to me! I can't guarantee anything, this requires some skill.
Do at your own risk. NOT LEGAL!
Materials needed:
- Mini H1 projectors with shrouds
- H1 HID kit
- LED strips if you so desire
- Quick connects (10)
- Spray paint (primer and top coat)
- Your headlights
Tools needed:
- Various screwdrivers (flat head and Philips)
- Heat gun or oven (both is better)
- Small putty knife
- Pliers
- Wire cutters
- X-acto or very sharp knife
- Painters tape and newspaper
- Rubbing alcohol (91% isopropyl)
- Electrical tape
- Heat shrink
- Drill and bits (1 inch, and a few smaller ones)
- Dremel with small cut-off wheel (and respiratory mask)
- Your hands and your brain
Step one:
Remove all dust covers, bulbs, and the single screw by the turn signal. Also remove the three vents.
Step two:
Baking headlights is a fundamental skill, and there are hundreds of DIYs around the internet, so I won't go very in depth.
Bake one headlight at 200F for about 10 minutes. Start prying around the edge to separate the glue from the lens. Don't pry the cover off just yet.
When you have all the glue separated, start prying apart the pieces, it will go easy if the glue is hot. Use a heat gun to keep it hot. Or throw it in the oven for another 5 to 10 minutes.
Start pulling apart on the high beam side, I find it's easiest there. Work your way down to the turn signal. Finally pull the lens off the housing. Make sure you cut the strands of glue as you go, do NOT let it touch the reflectors! It's a royal pain in the @$$ to remove!
Step three:
To remove the chrome fascia on the lens, remove the three screws, then pull it out gently. I still can't figure out a fool proof way to get it out right the very first time, so just wiggle it and pry it out, but don't force it!
Remove the two screws holding the turn signal reflector, and then un-clip the reflector.
Step four:
Remove the little dingleberry in the reflector bowl, the little cup that reduces glare. This part can be tricky unless you remove the reflector from the housing. I found that the easiest way to get to the screw is to just drill a hole in the housing just above the opening. You may be able to get it without drilling, so try first. Use the adjustment screw to get it closer to the opening.
Step five:
The bulb hole has to be made slightly bigger to fit the stem of the projector. Use a sanding drum to shave off a little off each of the three sides. I used a file.
Test fit every few nano meters. You want it to fit through easily, but with very little wiggle room.
Step six:
Use a Dremel to cut off the little ridge on the inside of the reflector bowl, this will help the projector sit flush with the bowl, and make screwing it down easier.
Step seven:
Slide the silicone washer onto the projector base, the big, round, white rubber thingy. Test fit the projector to make sure you can screw it down all the way. Don't over tighten it, just tight enough to make sure it fits.
Just the silicone washer, or else it won't fit right. Then the lock nut on the outside.
Step eight:
Scuff up the chrome surface of the reflector bowl with sand paper, or a scotchbrite pad. Prime with a self etching primer. Let it cure for at least half an hour. Paint with paint of your choice. Let cure over night.
Do the same thing to the fascia, if you so please.
After priming:
Step nine:
Install projector once again, thread the solenoid wires through the hole that the cup used to be in. You will either have to remove the wires from the plug, or make the hole bigger. I pulled them out of the plug, and simply extended them to the high-beam area. Then use quick connects to tap into the high beam. The polarity doesn't matter.
Step ten:
Tighten the lock nut really tight, but not so tight that it breaks the plastic, or the nut itself. A good set of pliers will help here.
Step eleven:
If you want LEDs:
Drill a small hole in the very inside, lower corner of the fascia, and thread the wires through. Then stick the strip on the bottom of the fascia. Do it however you want.
Connect the wires to the turn signal wires, I don't remember which wire was what, but it's easy to figure out if you know electronics at all. Use quick connects again.
Step twelve:
Install the HID bulbs. (you should know how to do this, search if you do not) Install the lights in your car, without the front cover. Make sure you can aim them where you need them. Make any adjustments you need to, usually just rotational, and vertical.
(rotation is slightly off in this pic)
Step thirteen: Put it all back together!
Clip the turn signal bowl back onto the fascia, and screw it down. Make sure you wipe off the chrome, and inside of the cover with a microfiber cloth and alcohol. Buff. Put the fascia back onto the front cover, and screw it down.
To seal it back up, use an oven or heat gun and several clamps around the edges. Take your time to get it all sealed up. You can add extra butyl sealant if you so wish.
Step fourteen:
Install them in your car again. Aim again. Hopefully you got the rotation right. Find somewhere to mount your ballasts. My ballasts came with some bolts that just happened to be the same size as some tapped holes in the body. Nice!
Last step:
Enjoy!!!
Finished:
It's a Kia!
HOW TO: Mini H1 Projector Retrofit
SHADY
The StormTrooper
2010 Kia forte koup
WANT
Hatch
2011 Kia Forte Koup
