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I need new speakers. These are crap

16K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  toneb210 
#1 ·
So I've been thinking about the sound quality in my 2014 Forte EX (non-nav) for a while, and I've decided to replace the factory speakers with something better.

The factory speakers sound like crap, even when compared to the 15 year old BOSE system in my Audi.

I'm keeping the head unit, because I don't like the look of aftermarket stuff in my car, and I don't want to lose my bluetooth, steering wheel controls, or backup camera.

I don't plan on doing the work myself, so what I'd like to do is get your recommendations for new door speakers, new tweeters, and probably an amp. Then I'll have a local car audio shop install it for me. I'm interested in getting the cleanest signal possible, with good highs and deep lows - well as deep as I can get without a subwoofer.

What are your recommendations?
 
#4 ·
Replacing the door speakers will definitely help. I wouldn't worry about going to high end unless you plan to amplify your door speakers. The stock head unit has horrible low end. I ended up swapping the door speakers and ran them off the head unit. Then added amp and subs for bass. There is definately a few different ways to go about putting your system together, but definately swap the door speakers. They are trash.
 
#8 ·
You can definately do it yourself. the lease is the only part that would worry me. Ive never leased a car. Im guessing if they dont notice anything is different when you return it then its all good. I doubt they are going to take the door panels off to look for different speakers.
 
#15 ·
Pillar is where the seat belt is. You will want to pop off the bottom half of the pillar. Theres 2 plastic trim pieces along the floorboard that overlap at the bottom of the pillar. Pop off those straight pieces on floorboard first, then you can remove pillar plastic. Tap into the appropriate wires. Basicaly you just use some speaker wire to tap into the wires in the pillar. Run that wire with the other wires along the floorboard back to the trunk. This is also where you could run the power cable that goes from your battery to your amp. Hope its all making sense. Also I think there is a write up on this already.
 
#13 ·
Guys, I have a question regarding a mono amp and the Line Output Converter. Do I still tie into both rear speakers because it is a mono amp? Or just one. Digging around here has led me to both answers and an instance where one person used both and ran into problems until he disconnected one. Any thoughts guys?
 
#16 ·
Big thanks to you tone! Make complete sense and did find some nice write-ups after digging. Now my paranoia seems to lie within picking the right amp to make sure my alternator can handle it. Now, I need a 1 ohm capable amp to run the woofer that I have. The most decent priced one ohm is a 1500watt (PEAK WATTS) mono Crunch Powerzone. I don't know what the RMS is for sure but some people say it is in the 800 range. Now this is a 500w enclosure so the amp won't be maxed way out but will I be ok running this amp? Again, I won't have it turned up fully and don't mind if my lights dim slightly, but I don't want this car stalling at red lights! Will wait for an answer here before I order it up!
 
#17 ·
Are you sure it has to be run at 1 ohm?? Ive never had a setup that ran at 1ohm. I mean im sure you can do it @ the 500 watts your talking about with no issues. Im pushing about 900 watts at 2 ohms with no problems. But when tuning my amp, i did get the headlights to flicker when turning up the bass boost. Interior dome lights would flicker as well. I was just seeing how far I could push it, so I didnt keep those settings, my lights currently dont flicker, but if my 1000 watt amp running at 2ohms can make the headlights flicker, im sure your 1500 watt amp can also make the lights flicker. And from my understanding, the lower the resistance (ohms), the more strain you put on your electrical system. Just keep that in mind. what kind of sub do you have by the way??
 
#18 ·
Yes sub specifically requires a 1ohm stable amp. Rockford Fosgate 10" P3 Ported Box. I ended up choosing a Pioneer 800RMS Class D amp. I still won't crank that all the way up. The person who had this before me ran an Alpine 400RMS amp at like 1/4 gain and it messed my hair up. The class D will be easy on my electrical and at 800 RMS its perfect for my 500 RMS enclosure.
 
#23 ·
What did you end up replacing them with FF? Im looking at either Rockfords or Sound Ordinence component speakers from Crutchfield. Also, did you replace the tweeters in the dash or just mount them on top? how hard was it to get into the dash to replace the tweeters if you went that route?
 
#22 ·
I have 6 speaker system. Wouldnt exactly say its premium tho. Lol. Just adds some crappy tweeters. I didnt use component replacement. But its definitely not a bad idea. Especially if you are going to amplify them. I just used 3 way pioneer coaxial in all 4 doors, and pioneer tweeters. Just a lot easier to install. And i have them running off factory head unit. Quality is waaaay better. Almost any replacement is a step up. You want to shoot for a replacement with high sensitivity if running off factory head unit. Just means you dont need a lot off power for the speaker to get loud. Something with 40-50 watt rms with a sensitivity rating of 89 or 90 should be more then good enough and affordable
 
#24 · (Edited)
First I installed a 12 inch Kicker Bass Station sub in the trunk. Put component Massive Audio LK6 system in the front and Massive Audio coax in the back. Incredible difference. Housing the new tweeters was a bit tricky because of the casing OEM comes in. The installer wanted to cut the grill and bracket to have the new tweeters flush with the dash, but the Florida sun would be brutal on them. So they fit them in and because they are movable they fire 20 degrees forward now rather than up towards the glass. A bit tricky but easy to access from the top of the dash. Also doors are getting thinner and more crowded, so they cut the original speakers out and put the new ones directly into the OEM brackets for a custom fit. I used my tax refund last year to pay for it. Worth every penny as I enjoy the sound every time I get in the car. Good luck, and post what you end up doing. Every bit of info helps the Forte community around the world.
 
#25 ·
There's good info on these boards - thanks. The audio's the only thing about the car I haven't liked in the 4 weeks since I got it.
I have to point out that our abnormally cold weather in the northeast did a number on the sound. On the mornings when the temp was below zero, the air pockets behind the speakers shrank so much the speakers couldn't give any bass at all.
 
#27 ·
Yeah up here in saskatchewan where it gets to -40 C it really kills the sound of the speakers. It would take until the car was fully warmed up to get the full, sound out of them again.
 
#28 ·
I had an issue with my Soul that I was getting clipping at higher volumes with the factory head unit and coaxial aftermarket speakers (no amp). I do not want to run into the same problem with my new Forte5 SX. My understanding is it runs a 6 speaker system and I do not have the nav tech package. Does anyone know what would be an all around best bang for buck front speakers without running the risk of having power issues with the head unit and no amp?

PS. Bobglenn. When you removed the Forte 5 badge from the rear were there any posts or was it just pure adhesive?

Thanks all!
 
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