I took a picture to better illustrate the situation.
My SX has gone in twice for mild leaking at the oil pan/engine block seam. The first repair leaked just as bad, so the dealer replaced the pan and really piled on the sealant for the second repair. As you can see in the picture, there's still oil at the seam and around the pan bolts.
Is it unreasonable to consider this (admittedly minor) leak unacceptable? Although my dealer is very accommodating, I'm reluctant to take the car in for a third try on this issue.
I know if that was my car, I would be taking it in. I believe third time in for the same problem, lemon law comes into play I believe. I would just make sure that oil was not just "spilled" somehow and it is just there from that, not an a leak itself.
__________________ 2011 Forte Koup SX
6 speed A/T
"SI Spoiler"
Pinstripes on front bumper
Painted calipers
Red stitched shift boot
Thanks for your input. I wish the oil was the result of a spill, but no dice.
I'm starting to wonder if it's the mating surface of the block that's the problem. The pan replacement ruled out a warped pan and the leak(s) have always been in the same place(s) every time.
I don't think I would accept it. Other Forte's don't drip, so it's certainly not normal. I think it's possible you have a block problem, but 2 of the 3 leaks are near the bolts. The sealant should fill any defects in the block, unless it's a crack. Are they overtightening the bolts and damaging the new pan? I can see the mechanic now thinking "I'll really torque these suckers down so it Never leaks!"
__________________
2011 Forte SX 5 door with 6 speed
2007 VW Eos with 6 speed
I agree regarding the torque on the bolts, Walpole. This second repair was performed by their head technician, so I assume the factory torque spec was used (although there's so much slop in such specs as to be almost useless).
Last time under my car I noticed a leak in the exact same spot. I had just changed the oil out so I am waiting until the next time a change is due to take it in. When I was under the car I actually saw a drop fall from the pan. I have nothing on my driveway because of the little plastic piece. The oil drips right into there and is obsorbed by dirt & grime.
I would not accept it because over time it is just going to get worse and if the engine becomes starved it's game over.
I'd take it back, and contact KIA directly to bring them up to speed. you can also ask the dealer to have their KIA rep contact you and make sure you are cared for correctly until this ordeal is complete.
How much time did you give them to fix it. I think Kia gives them 40 mins to repair it but it's more of a 4 hour repair because you have to take the pan off degrease the mating surfaces put the RTV on the pan let it set for minute then mate the surfaces then wait another few hours before you start splashing hot oil all over it.
__________________
2010 Forte SX Sedan. DDM 4500K HID, LED interior lights, K-badges, Koup-R Strut bar, Solo Performance Catback(Long Mach QRRez), AEM Dryflow (Koup-R filter) and Tints.
They had plenty of time for the repair on the second attempt. Their first attempt didn't allow for a proper cure - at least that's my theory.
I still consider my dealer's customer service to be top-notch. Although the leak still exists, they're more than willing to correct the problem and have notified Kia. I actually sent my dealer a link to this thread(!)
Currently, Kia's engineering department has been notified and they're deciding what should be done. I'll be sure to pass along what happens when it does.
Mine was dry for 18 months..yours should be too. The only way a dealership / manufacturer can figure out the remedy to a problem is if they're forced to deal with it until the repair is successful. I know it's a pain....I've been there with a Nissan. But keep taking it back until it stops leaking. If that means they are forced to look elsewhere besides the sealant & pan, so be it. But globbing sealant on a problem really isn't a solution. They don't glob it on at the factory, they shouldn't have to at a dealership. You paid for a non-leaking car. They're obligated to deliver.
so is there not a proper gasket for the pans? RTV is a crap way to fix something IMO. I know factories use it in assembly.....still doesn't make it right.
most cars use RTV or some kind of gasket maker for the oilpan.
Maybe there is an issue with the block?
__________________
1993 Honda Civic Si coupe
H22A Engine swap
Yonaka racing seats
Yonaka engine mounts
Yonaka dual core racing rad
Projector headlights
Forum & Function type 2 coilovers
Front Ractiev strut bar
Rear Ractive strut bar
AEM short ram air intake
2 12" Infiniti refrence subs
JVC dvd deck
1800 watt kenwood amp
Typer R front and rear lips
Mugen side skirts
(being sold for 2013 Dodge Dart R/T)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilsX
I'm asian so, my antenna is all girth no length, like a frying pan.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.