Well guys, I'm getting to 100k miles, and need to do some work to my car.
I ordered some new brake pads, and am planning on getting new spark plugs. Also wanting to get my transmission fluid changed and my fuel injectors cleaned. What else would you guys recommend me do to keep my car running for another 100k miles, and make it run like new?
Just keep up on maintenance. And maybe start thinking about some of the bigger issues as prevention. Sooner than later you have oil pump and water pump etc to start considering.
I'm starting to investigate some of the more common repairs that my Forte might need as time goes on. So after reading this post, I became curious about these jobs, and took a look at the FSM for what's involved in changing out those 2 pumps.
Changing the water pump appears to be a very easy DIY job. Pull the drive belt and remove the pump (4 bolts). Very simple, and I could easily see myself swapping that pump as proactive maintenance.
Now for the not-so-good-news. Basically, you want to hope the oil pump never fails and needs to be replaced. In looking at the procedure, there is a LOT of stuff that needs to be removed in order to get to the oil pump: timing cover /chain; motor mount; oil pan; a bunch of pulleys; compressor stuff; and a few "be careful" warnings that sound problematic. At the end of all that, you finally get tto pull the oil pump and it's chain. This job is way more involved than any timing belt I've ever done.
I'm guessing that if I did this job, my (first-time) fumbling and bumbling DIY elapsed time would be around 20 hours (and I wouldn't be surprised if that was too low). I'd also guess that the dealer price for this work could not be less than 1K, and maybe more like 1.5K. I might be overestimating this a bit - IDK. But it's overall a 26 step removal process, and that timing chain stuff does not look fast or easy. I will say for certain that I'll just keep crossed fingers that the oil pump lasts the life of the Forte.
Are you planning on taking it to a shop for this? If so, I'd suggest you consider instead just swapping fluid yourself by draining via the plug, and refilling the same amount of new fluid into the dip stick tube. If you do this either every oil change or every other one, the fluid qualitity will continue to be very good.
Also you will pay quite a bit for injector cleaning at a shop, and IMO it's rarely necessary if you use top tier gas, which contains injector-friendly detergents. You can also use Techron every once in a while if you want to add in some extra cleaning.
When was the last time you checked your air filter?
I'm getting the transmission fluid changed, spark plugs changed, and fuel injectors cleaned from a friend who owns his own shop for $40. So not a bad deal in my opinion.
I put a new drive belt on at 100k, even though it didn't need it. When I got the belt off, it still looked excellent. Gave me piece of mind, though. I changed the coolant at 110k, 10k before it was due. I wanted to do it while the weather was warm. Not much else to do.
s.f.c.hooligan;766394 ...And maybe start thinking about some of the bigger issues as prevention...and water pump etc to start considering.[/QUOTE said:
What do we need to look for concerning the water pump, sfc?
At that mileage I'd replace it the next time I was repairing anything or at a time I had the few bucks. As a prevention measure before its actually failed. Same with oil pump. They go and its down till fixed..I prefer fixing it when its on my schedule. (Example not while your trying to take a vacation or mid commute or a bad month bill wise etc)
Go with a good name. Not necessarily expensive. Beck arnely for example. Should be fair priced.
The diy is a bit advanced. But it sure beats the cost of a motor out of warranty. I'd also take that job and expand to add a new chain tensioner while there. Chain it self should still be good but if the extra few bucks was available I'd possibly replace as well. Typically the tensioner is the culprit in a chain failure not necessarily the chain.
Even if you paid the estimated grand for a shop to do it that's only ~25% of a long block motor purchase.
Now....if I was only in the car another year and at 100,000 miles I'd seriously debate just a water pump and leave the rest to the next owner.
I'll agree that if someone wants to keep one of these on the road for as long as possible, it's probably a good strategy to do an "overhaul" at some point. Lots of other stuff is already removed with this job, such as drive belt idler, tensioner, oil pan (gasket), so it would indeed be a great time to DIY a swap of many wear parts in a single job. I'll file that one away in the "don't-want-to-think-about-it-now" cabinet (which is already filled up).
My 2010 Forte EX passed the 200,000 mile mark 2 weeks ago. Still going strong, with no problems. Oil change each 7000 miles with Mobil 1 1W20 oil. Tire rotation each oil change. New shocks and struts last spring, brake pads the previous fall, 3 sets of tires. K&N air filter, inspected each oil change, clean and re-oil as needed.
Ever end up having the valve clearances checked? Missed that on 60,000k and 67,500k. Looking in to getting those checked at 75,000k. Just wondering how much something like that would cost.. it surely has to be a pretty penny!