DIY Sub Install on stock head unit - Kia Forte Forum : Sedan / Koup / Forte5 Forums
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-28-2011, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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DIY Sub Install on stock head unit

I installed my setup last night and snapped some pictures becuase i know alot of people have questions.

Tools-
Phillips
Drill (To drill through the firewall plate)
Wrench and socket set
Wire strippers
T-Tap clips x 6
Amp
Sub
Box
LOC (LineOutConverter)

(STEP 1) Get the power to the trunk. There is a plate held by 2 bolts in the middle of your firewall. the plate is steel and behind it a rubber piece you will have to punch a hole through. Unscrew the 2 bolts grab a screwdriver and go inside your car look for the sunlight peeking through under your dash and pop the plate out. it will fall. grab it and drill the proper size hole to feed your power cable through. i used a rubber gromet so time and wear wont cut into my wire shorting it out. once through run the power to the trunk.





(STEP 2) Remove all the plastics so you can properly hide the wires you are running into the back these wires you will need to run are (POWER, REMOTE, REAR SPEAKER WIRES) i used the driver side you can use which you like. Removing the plastics are easy start with the driver one by simply carefully pulling them up they are clipped in and will just pop out. VERY SIMPLE just dont break anything by pulling to hard. do the same with the back (THE BACK PIECES HAVE 1 SCREW) and then remove the pillar plastic which is secured by 3 yellow clips which also just pull out. then remove some of the weather stripping so you can access everything.

(STEP 3) The LOC requires 2 speaker INPUT so i tapped into my rear speakers (Wires are in the middle pillar) you will have to do both left and right from the rear creating the proper connection. In the pillars you will see a black squarish looking hole in which wires are ran into the door the speaker wires are located in this bundle and are EASY to find. Tear back the electrical tape and you will see a RED&BLUE Wire braided together the red is your POSITIVE use the T-Tap clips and tap into each wire on both sides of your car and run the new wires to the trunk of your car.









(STEP 4) For the remote i just tapped into my fuses which are located on the inside of the drivers dash. its a little panel you pull out. I already had LED lights running off the tap so i had the parts and was very easy. Others tap into the cigarette lighter which requires to get behind the center console a bit which takes a bit. These fuse taps are availible online like ebay but i think may find these at Radioshack. Tap into the interior light fuse and run the wire all the way back and this will be your remote

(STEP 5) I removed my back seats to better conceal the wires the choice is yours i think you can get away without this step but i still took pictures. The whole back seat is 5 bolts and 2 clips. Start with the top pieces first they make the bottom ones getting out easier. go to the trunk unlatch both seats and push them forwared and unbolt the 3 bolts located on the bottom back parts and the tops of the seats pull right out. then go inside your car sit on the bottom seat and you will see 2 more bolts inside a big steel U looking thing. unbolt those and unclip the bottom which are two buttons located where the seat meets the carpet behind where your legs usually are when sitting on them and they will pull right out.









(STEP 6) Hooking up the LOC is cake all you do is add the 4 speaker wires (Coming from therear speakers) to the proper connections (I Used A5-A8)by using the instruction manual it comes with and rca's plug right in no power or anything required. I put mine where my spare tire goes hiding it under there.



(STEP 7) Ground is easy just screw a bolt somewhere in your trunk with the eyelit and bam. pretty easy.

At this point you should have all the required wires in your trunk i recommend testing everything out ensuring the amp powers on and your getting proper sound before putting everything back together. and once you have start reverse order putting things back and your done. I hope this write up and pictures help a little more.

Please if anything is confusing or wrong let me know ill edit the post
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-28-2011, 04:42 PM
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Well I should have read up on that more. I didn't realize the LOC was passive. My previous post about power runs and all is moot! Probably will have some people complain about using the taps for audio, but you had them and there is something to be said for that.

So what amp/sub are you using, more install to come?

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-28-2011, 04:43 PM
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Perfect



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post #4 of 9 Old 05-28-2011, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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No ill post my setup in the audio forum later im still messing with the wires and getting it clean in the back at the moment
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-18-2013, 04:14 PM
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firewall

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fydaforte View Post
I installed my setup last night and snapped some pictures becuase i know alot of people have questions.

Tools-
Phillips
Drill (To drill through the firewall plate)
Wrench and socket set
Wire strippers
T-Tap clips x 6
Amp
Sub
Box
LOC (LineOutConverter)

(STEP 1) Get the power to the trunk. There is a plate held by 2 bolts in the middle of your firewall. the plate is steel and behind it a rubber piece you will have to punch a hole through. Unscrew the 2 bolts grab a screwdriver and go inside your car look for the sunlight peeking through under your dash and pop the plate out. it will fall. grab it and drill the proper size hole to feed your power cable through. i used a rubber gromet so time and wear wont cut into my wire shorting it out. once through run the power to the trunk.





(STEP 2) Remove all the plastics so you can properly hide the wires you are running into the back these wires you will need to run are (POWER, REMOTE, REAR SPEAKER WIRES) i used the driver side you can use which you like. Removing the plastics are easy start with the driver one by simply carefully pulling them up they are clipped in and will just pop out. VERY SIMPLE just dont break anything by pulling to hard. do the same with the back (THE BACK PIECES HAVE 1 SCREW) and then remove the pillar plastic which is secured by 3 yellow clips which also just pull out. then remove some of the weather stripping so you can access everything.

(STEP 3) The LOC requires 2 speaker INPUT so i tapped into my rear speakers (Wires are in the middle pillar) you will have to do both left and right from the rear creating the proper connection. In the pillars you will see a black squarish looking hole in which wires are ran into the door the speaker wires are located in this bundle and are EASY to find. Tear back the electrical tape and you will see a RED&BLUE Wire braided together the red is your POSITIVE use the T-Tap clips and tap into each wire on both sides of your car and run the new wires to the trunk of your car.









(STEP 4) For the remote i just tapped into my fuses which are located on the inside of the drivers dash. its a little panel you pull out. I already had LED lights running off the tap so i had the parts and was very easy. Others tap into the cigarette lighter which requires to get behind the center console a bit which takes a bit. These fuse taps are availible online like ebay but i think may find these at Radioshack. Tap into the interior light fuse and run the wire all the way back and this will be your remote

(STEP 5) I removed my back seats to better conceal the wires the choice is yours i think you can get away without this step but i still took pictures. The whole back seat is 5 bolts and 2 clips. Start with the top pieces first they make the bottom ones getting out easier. go to the trunk unlatch both seats and push them forwared and unbolt the 3 bolts located on the bottom back parts and the tops of the seats pull right out. then go inside your car sit on the bottom seat and you will see 2 more bolts inside a big steel U looking thing. unbolt those and unclip the bottom which are two buttons located where the seat meets the carpet behind where your legs usually are when sitting on them and they will pull right out.









(STEP 6) Hooking up the LOC is cake all you do is add the 4 speaker wires (Coming from therear speakers) to the proper connections (I Used A5-A8)by using the instruction manual it comes with and rca's plug right in no power or anything required. I put mine where my spare tire goes hiding it under there.



(STEP 7) Ground is easy just screw a bolt somewhere in your trunk with the eyelit and bam. pretty easy.

At this point you should have all the required wires in your trunk i recommend testing everything out ensuring the amp powers on and your getting proper sound before putting everything back together. and once you have start reverse order putting things back and your done. I hope this write up and pictures help a little more.

Please if anything is confusing or wrong let me know ill edit the post
Great post, I am trying o hook up with my factory headunit as well.
I had a question behind the gas pedals where i think, you refer to the location with 2 bolts. The shape of the spot looks the same front under the hood and inside but My 2012 doesn't have those bolts, am I looking at the correct place?
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-18-2013, 05:21 PM
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You went through a whole lot more trouble than me...


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post #7 of 9 Old 02-20-2013, 07:07 AM
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Nice work!
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You went through a whole lot more trouble than me...
Please tell me an easier way for my 2013 Sedan

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Didn't read everything but sounds like your running all your wires on one side. That's a mistake you should separate the speaker and RCA cables from the power cable otherwise the power will bleed into your sound. So you have to run down both sides of the car.
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