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Hey guys, I was wondering if the Forte 2.4L engine is the same as the Sonata 200hp 2.4L? And if they are the same what makes the Sonata 27hp more then the Forte 2.4L???

Forte 2.4L 173hp
Sonata 2.4L 200hp
 

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Our 2.4L is the same 2.4L that's in the 06-10 Sonata's. The 2011 Sonata's add GDI to the engine for the increase in horsepower. There may also be some internal upgrades to cope with the added HP but i doubt it.
 

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I wonder how difficult it would be to put a GDI engine in our Forte/Koup ????? I realy like to have those 23HP!!!
 

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I wonder how difficult it would be to put a GDI engine in our Forte/Koup ????? I realy like to have those 23HP!!!
New head, new fuel pump(possibly system) and new computer.
 

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check the specs on the motor higher compression also
 

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check the specs on the motor higher compression also
I wonder if it's because of a change in the head alone or new pistons.
 

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i believe its the head and high compression pistons. if you get it dont even bother getting a turbo or putting nos for that matter.
 

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you may as well drop 4k (HALF the price of a motor) to get an extra 120ish hp ;)
 

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I have a 2009 Sonata and a 2011 Forte SX and as I view them in my garage the engines appears identical. Because the Forte weighs less than the Sonata it has faster acceleration although in my opinion the power is more than adequate for either.

I'm from the old school and prefer my engine block to be cast iron. I believe the new GDI engine has an aluminum block. If anyone remembers the old aluminum block Vegas from the 70s they would burn oil like crazy as soon as the spray on iron oxide wore through. But I suppose the new engines finally worked out that problem although I will also tell you that if you check the difference in common lawn mower engines and the "heavy duty" engines, you will find a cast iron liner in those engines. Once the all aluminum block is worn even slightly it may as well be thrown away and a re-ringing will not solve the problem. It will still burn oil unless you sleeve the engine which is cost prohibitive.

Not sure if they sleeve the aluminum GDI block so perhaps that is how they keep that from happening. As I see it the only worthwhile difference is the lessened weight although I suppose the injection system is more efficient which accounts for the difference in power.
 

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Our 2.4l block has a very thick wall i have a youtube video laying around type in mrpocket1989 i took apart a theta 2 motor on my 2.4l
 

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Our 2.4l block has a very thick wall i have a youtube video laying around type in mrpocket1989 i took apart a theta 2 motor on my 2.4l
If the cylinder walls are quite thick the engine could be bored out to increase power. That would be a relatively inexpensive proposition compared to a revised crankshaft to increase the stroke which would require a much thicker wallet. You could also put higher compression pistons into the block which would further increase power. It goes without saying that your warranty would be worthless, however.

I have an iron rule that I personally apply. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. As far as I am concerned the engine has more than enough power.

As an aside, these engines should be readily available through dismantlers for a small price. They have warehouses of these and other make engines all over the country. I've seen them on ebay for some very reasonable prices if someone wanted to experiment with them. You could then stick the original engine back in it should you go to trade it or have warranty work done.
 

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As an aside, these engines should be readily available through dismantlers for a small price. They have warehouses of these and other make engines all over the country. I've seen them on ebay for some very reasonable prices if someone wanted to experiment with them. You could then stick the original engine back in it should you go to trade it or have warranty work done.
I can't imagine someone swapping back to the original engine to get warranty work done.
 

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I can't imagine someone swapping back to the original engine to get warranty work done.
Perhaps, but when it comes time to sell it, it is best to be completely stock. I don't think the engine swap would be that difficult with an engine hoist if someone is reasonably mechanically inclined. I have pulled several engines in my youthful days. I even swapped in a V8 to replace a six cylinder engine which required welding in new motor mounts. It can be done.

If a person brings a greatly modified vehicle in for service and it could conceivably affect the warranty it might be worthwhile to hold one aside for that day should it come to that. One could construct an argument that modifying an engine which overloads the drive line that those components would not come under warranty either.

I'm always dubious about modifying vehicles. If one wants a particular vehicle to do something that it wasn't designed for, then go ahead and buy one that already has those features. If one can't afford it, perhaps this is a sign that the financial abilities have been exceeded. On my car, it has exactly what I want so I will never have to explain to the dealer that I tampered with any stock components. I think a lot of people who modify these vehicles are buying themselves a lot of trouble in the future. But that is just my opinion but I did work in two dealerships as a service writer so I know a little about this subject. If it wasn't a stock item, it wasn't covered. It's all in the owner's warranty manual.
 
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