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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2011 kia forte ex, every now and then (not every time) I start the car, it has trouble idling. When it turns over, the engine would catch but it would the keep its rpms low and sputter (almost like there is water in the gas, nut there is not) I keep my foot on the fuel and it starts to pan out the works fine, and then the car has no issues after thay. This don't happen all the time.



I also have a p200a (intake manifold runner performance bank 1) code with a O2 Sensor.



Would the that p200a code cause such a problem with starting? I know that a new vcm actuator could fix this code. But I would like to get the car starting properly first.

I have attached all the codes.


Any help would be great.



Thanks.
 

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Would the that p200a code cause such a problem with starting? I know that a new vcm actuator could fix this code. But I would like to get the car starting properly first.
...
Yes, that code could create a starting issue.

You don't necessarily need to buy a new VCMA, in fact the history of this has shown that it's the least likely of the possible suspects. Remove the actuator, check for broken linkage, and (if nothing is broken), test the actuator electrically. If no issues turn up from doing those things, remove the intake manifold and check for stuck and/or bent runners. Runner issues can often be cleaned or otherwise fixed, instead of buying a replacement manifold.

I recommend getting the P200A issue corrected, before trying anything else to fix the erratic starting.
 

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I read something about having to get something updated after replacing the VCMA?
I believe it was called ECM or something along those lines?
Yes, that's what Kia says is required, but I've never read a report from anyone who found that a VCMA replacement did not work correctly until that update was done.
 

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I have a 2011 kia forte ex, every now and then (not every time) I start the car, it has trouble idling. When it turns over, the engine would catch but it would the keep its rpms low and sputter (almost like there is water in the gas, nut there is not) I keep my foot on the fuel and it starts to pan out the works fine, and then the car has no issues after thay. This don't happen all the time.



I also have a p200a (intake manifold runner performance bank 1) code with a O2 Sensor.



Would the that p200a code cause such a problem with starting? I know that a new vcm actuator could fix this code. But I would like to get the car starting properly first.

I have attached all the codes.


Any help would be great.



Thanks.

Your car is 11-13 years old. Parts are going to need replacing from age.

The starting problem you are having sounds a lot like the problems I've had on 2010 Fortes: Difficult to start and seems like fuel starvation problems. If the starting problem is happening once the car is warmed up (recently driven) then the O2 sensor could be the problem. If the starting problem happens after the car has sat overnight then the O2 sensor is not the cause - but should be replaced if you're getting a code for it. From experience, I suspect your MAP sensor needs replacing. The MAP sensor is critical for fuel control - especially when cold and the O2 sensor isn't hot enough to send a signal (ECM running closed loop). The MAP sensor is probably faulty (It's OLD!) but starts to work once it gets warmed up - and doesn't reach the parameters required to set a code.

If it were my car I would replace O2 sensor, and if that didn't fix the starting problem I'd replace the MAP sensor with a NEW FACTORY MAP sensor.

Keep us updated.
 

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Which O2 should I try? Upstream or downstream?
Are you getting a code for the O2 sensor? The code would tell you which O2 sensor is bad.

HO2S-1 (upstream) is used for fuel control.
HO2S-2 (downstream) is used to gauge the catalytic converter's condition.

If you are not getting a code why do you think there is something wrong with an O2 sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry I misread your last post. I will put the code reading on in a day or so, it's my daughter's car and she is living away. But the starting issue has not happened in the last 2 days, but it has happened when the car is cold or warm.
 

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Sorry I misread your last post. I will put the code reading on in a day or so, it's my daughter's car and she is living away. But the starting issue has not happened in the last 2 days, but it has happened when the car is cold or warm.
Had a similar problem on my Granddaughter's 2010 Forte - hard start, sometimes no start - but cranked, rough idle, and poor gas mileage. No codes were present - 2 months later and it was driving my Son crazy. He finally ordered a fuel pump but before it came in the CEL illuminated and a code for the MAP was set. He cancelled the fuel pump order and installed a new MAP sensor and the car drives like new.
 

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Yes, that code could create a starting issue.

You don't necessarily need to buy a new VCMA, in fact the history of this has shown that it's the least likely of the possible suspects. Remove the actuator, check for broken linkage, and (if nothing is broken), test the actuator electrically. If no issues turn up from doing those things, remove the intake manifold and check for stuck and/or bent runners. Runner issues can often be cleaned or otherwise fixed, instead of buying a replacement manifold.

I recommend getting the P200A issue corrected, before trying anything else to fix the erratic starting.
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I have a thread/post on intake manifold. Check them out.

The VCMA doesn't need an update.

Buy a new MAP sensor from your local Kia/Hyundai dealership or from an authorized Kia/Hyundai online store.

Don't buy sensors, modules ECM,ECU, BCM,PCM etc from automotive stores that sell pos Chineseium made parts & sh!t quality. Those stores are great for throw away parts. Save yourself the anguish, frustrations & anger & buy from an authorized online Kia/Hyundai store or dealership.

Kiapartsnow.com is one I use for any info dealing with Kia/Hyundai vehicles.

If the new MAP sensor doesn't fix your car troubles, look into the O2 sensors, the intake manifold for stuck plastic butterfly doors & possibly the VCMA.

The VCMA has a plastic coupler that connects to the platic intake butterfly doors. If those or one is warped & stuck, it will cause the coupler to break or VCMA to burn out.

I have a post on bench testing the VCMA to see if it's operational as manufactured.

Hope this helps.

Let us know what the problem & fix was. It helps out the Forteforums community.
 

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I have a 2011 kia forte ex, every now and then (not every time) I start the car, it has trouble idling. When it turns over, the engine would catch but it would the keep its rpms low and sputter (almost like there is water in the gas, nut there is not) I keep my foot on the fuel and it starts to pan out the works fine, and then the car has no issues after thay. This don't happen all the time. I also have a p200a (intake manifold runner performance bank 1) code with a O2 Sensor. Would the that p200a code cause such a problem with starting? I know that a new vcm actuator could fix this code. But I would like to get the car starting properly first. I have attached all the codes. Any help would be great. Thanks.
My 2011 Kia Forte Koup EX 2.0L was doing the same thing. My husband cleaned the throttle body and it was night and day. It made a difference for starting, idling and acceleration. My car has never drove this well in the 3 years that I have owned it and it has 165k.
 

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Your car is 11-13 years old. Parts are going to need replacing from age. The starting problem you are having sounds a lot like the problems I've had on 2010 Fortes: Difficult to start and seems like fuel starvation problems. If the starting problem is happening once the car is warmed up (recently driven) then the O2 sensor could be the problem. If the starting problem happens after the car has sat overnight then the O2 sensor is not the cause - but should be replaced if you're getting a code for it. From experience, I suspect your MAP sensor needs replacing. The MAP sensor is critical for fuel control - especially when cold and the O2 sensor isn't hot enough to send a signal (ECM running closed loop). The MAP sensor is probably faulty (It's OLD!) but starts to work once it gets warmed up - and doesn't reach the parameters required to set a code. If it were my car I would replace O2 sensor, and if that didn't fix the starting problem I'd replace the MAP sensor with a NEW FACTORY MAP sensor. Keep us updated.
This is sounding really similar to the problem I am having with mine. It will crank then die like its not getting enough gas. If I turn it over and tap the gas lightly it will idle really high for a few seconds then run fine. No lights on dash nor am I getting any codes. Could it be the map sensor?
 

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This is sounding really similar to the problem I am having with mine. It will crank then die like its not getting enough gas. If I turn it over and tap the gas lightly it will idle really high for a few seconds then run fine. No lights on dash nor am I getting any codes. Could it be the map sensor?
Not being able to look at your car I can't be certain. The MAP sensor on these cars is critical to fuel control. Do you have a CEL or code stored?

SYMPTOMS OF A BAD MAP SENSOR - YouTube
 
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