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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

New to the forum. I have a 2011 Kia Forte Sedan EX (2.0L) automatic that was running fine until I changed the headlight bulbs. I had to disconnect the battery in order to change the driver's side bulb, and when all was said and done, the car would not idle. I get power (lights, sounds, beeping all works fine), the starter is fine (car turns over), but it just won't stay idling. It turns over and right as its about to idle, something clicks and the rpm's just drop and the engine dies. I tried turning it over maybe 6 times or so and same thing every time.

When I turn the key to the on/ACC position, I hear a constant clicking in the driver's side of the engine block. It's hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from, but sounds like a relay to me. I'm guessing when I disconnected and reconnected the battery, it caused some kind of a short and put a relay out or something.

Anyways, what relays or sensors are in that area? If it's something else, could you all point me in the right direction of what this might be?

Appreciate the help.

Thanks!

-LB
 

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That's interesting! Definitely sounds like something electrical has gone.

Do you have any check engine lights going or an OBDII scanner to check for codes?

Could be your electrical fuel pump, that's just a guess and I have no idea how to check and see if that's the issue.

Good luck!
 

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... had to disconnect the battery in order to change the driver's side bulb ....
Disconnecting the negative side is standard when doing anything electrical, but no need for anything else related to the battery. Simply removing the 2 bolts on the headlight holding tabs allows them to be pulled out (forward). Doing that gives full access to all of the bulbs.

The clicking sounds like the fuel pump relay, and you can confirm that by pulling it out of the fuse box. Left, rear, blue relay when looking at the fuse box from the front of the vehicle. The clicking should then be gone with the key at 'on'. Sounds like something is preventing that relay from getting full, steady voltage.

Whatever you did with the battery shouldn't have caused any issues, provided you didn't damage a wire or connector in the process. First check the ground, right next to the negative terminal to make sure that's tight. Also check the wiring located near the battery to confirm that nothing was damaged. If no problems are found, I'd recommend removing the new bulbs just to eliminate them from the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's interesting! Definitely sounds like something electrical has gone.

Do you have any check engine lights going or an OBDII scanner to check for codes?

Could be your electrical fuel pump, that's just a guess and I have no idea how to check and see if that's the issue.

Good luck!
I thought it was something electrical too... No CEL's :/

Disconnecting the negative side is standard when doing anything electrical, but no need for anything else related to the battery. Simply removing the 2 bolts on the headlight holding tabs allows them to be pulled out (forward). Doing that gives full access to all of the bulbs.

The clicking sounds like the fuel pump relay, and you can confirm that by pulling it out of the fuse box. Left, rear, blue relay when looking at the fuse box from the front of the vehicle. The clicking should then be gone with the key at 'on'. Sounds like something is preventing that relay from getting full, steady voltage.

Whatever you did with the battery shouldn't have caused any issues, provided you didn't damage a wire or connector in the process. First check the ground, right next to the negative terminal to make sure that's tight. Also check the wiring located near the battery to confirm that nothing was damaged. If no problems are found, I'd recommend removing the new bulbs just to eliminate them from the mix.
I checked the fuel pump relay and that does not seem to be the culprit. I pulled the relay and there was still clicking on the driver's side of the engine block (in between the block and what seemed to be the ecu). So I went on a frenzy and checked the voltage of all the fuses under the hood. I also pulled the relays that play a role in ignition/idle and there was still clicking. I checked the fuse in the interior near the driver's door as well. I also took out the headlight bulbs just to eliminate them as potential factors.

This is driving me nuts because sometimes the car will turn over and idle and drive fine, but other times it will not. I'm not really certain when I say this, but it seems the car turns over and idles when the engine is cold. After driving it for a bit is when it seems to die.

This I can say with confidence:
-Battery is good (12.4-5 volts)
-starter seems to be good (turns over every time, just doesnt idle)
-fuel pump seems to be good (clicking is not coming from the fuel pump)

I'm still thinking it's fuel related but not really sure... You guys have any other ideas?
 

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One thing not asked or stated is if there were any of these problems or clicking before the headlight swap. I was assuming not, but will ask now just to make sure about that. Assuming all of this is new, I'd be looking at it being caused by something from the work done. Seems like just to much of a coincidence otherwise.

Have you been able to locate the source of the clicking yet? Seems like that's the smoking gun. Not too much can click - relays, injectors, and maybe servos. Did you pull the injector fuse to confirm it's not them? Can't help thinking that perhaps you unknowingly damaged a wire or connector, because it sounds like an electrical connection that's making and breaking randomly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One thing not asked or stated is if there were any of these problems or clicking before the headlight swap. I was assuming not, but will ask now just to make sure about that. Assuming all of this is new, I'd be looking at it being caused by something from the work done. Seems like just to much of a coincidence otherwise.

Have you been able to locate the source of the clicking yet? Seems like that's the smoking gun. Not too much can click - relays, injectors, and maybe servos. Did you pull the injector fuse to confirm it's not them? Can't help thinking that perhaps you unknowingly damaged a wire or connector, because it sounds like an electrical connection that's making and breaking randomly.
That's what boggles me as well. There were no issues before I swapped the headlight bulbs, but I literally touched nothing else other than the bulbs and disconnecting the battery. I've worked on plenty of cars before (just never a Kia, this is my gf's car) so it wasn't a trial & error thing either.

I have not been able to located the source of the clicking yet as I didn't want to dig past all the wires and other junk that were in the way (work night).

Damn things got me all curious and want to look at it again, but my gf's going to take it into a shop today since she gets off early.

I'll post up what the issue when I found out, since it may be helpful for others.

Thanks for the help,

-LB
 

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Well it's too bad that circumstances forces it into a shop - you sound the kind of guy who would stay with it until you figured it out.

Here's something I just found in the doc - probably not the cause of this problem, but it's in the ballpark so I'm sending it your way. There apparently is an optional battery sensor on some Fortes (mine does not have one). Although the doc only has a drawing and not a good photo, it appears to somehow be installed as a part of the negative battery terminal.

They give a caution and say the max torque for that terminal bolt is 4.4 ft lbs. It goes on to say: "an excessive tightening torque can damage the PCB internal circuit and the battery terminal." I have no idea if this sensor is really damaged easily by going over, but 4.4 isn't very much torque. I've never used a torque wrench on battery bolts, but would guess I always go quite a bit more than 4.4.

In any case, it may very well help others if you post whatever the eventual outcome of this is. And I hope it's not too painful to your wallet!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So the car was taken to a mechanic, and lo and behold, the car started up and idled just fine over the two days he had the car. We took the car back, and it did start throwing CEL code P0106 (faulty MAP sensor) for a little bit but went away after a couple hours. The code no longer shows but we were averaging 21 mpg on mostly highway driving over the weekend, so it seems like the MAP sensor is the culprit. I will confirm once we get it swapped out.

Thanks for being helpful yall!

-LB
 

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So the car was taken to a mechanic, and lo and behold, the car started up and idled just fine over the two days he had the car. We took the car back, and it did start throwing CEL code P0106 (faulty MAP sensor) for a little bit but went away after a couple hours. The code no longer shows but we were averaging 21 mpg on mostly highway driving over the weekend, so it seems like the MAP sensor is the culprit. I will confirm once we get it swapped out.

Thanks for being helpful yall!

-LB
That always seems to happen!! It's like the car knows its going to the "Doctor" and starts acting normal again, lol. Hopefully the MAP sensor will correct your problem.
 

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Hello, I believe I'm experiencing the same thing also I realized that I've lost power possibly.. Please if you could post an update and how it went I would really appreciate it ! ,also does the kia also start having idling problems sometimes when you turn the a/c on , bounces up and down 1000 rpms... Let me know please !
 

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.... so it seems like the MAP sensor is the culprit. ...
If I was betting, it would not be on the MAP. Did you test it with a data stream reader, or by back probing the wiring? But if you do go ahead and buy a new sensor, then I hope I'm wrong and it does end up fixing the problem!
 

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What was the final verdict on the cause of this. My 2011 Forte SX recently started to do this. We've had a cold spell (-20-30C). Went to start my car one night and wouldn't start due to battery being dead. Charged it and started without a problem. Idled for about 10 minutes to warm it up and ran fine for the first 10 minutes. After that, pulling up to any red light or stop sign, as soon as the car would dip below ~500RPM, the car would just die gracefully. Restarting is not a problem, but need to have some throttle to keep the RPM above 1000.

Ran a scan on the ECU and came up with a P0106 (MAP Sensor) issue and replaced that. Replaced the MAP and car ran fine for first few minutes, but within 5-10 minutes, back to car dies below 500RPM. There is still a Permanent DTC P0106 code, but CEL is cleared.

Any thoughts before I bring it in?
 

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Everything related to the problem with your vehicle is quite a bit different than the OP. IMO the battery is on it's way out, and is the first suspect for the problem you described. The only exception would be if you had been cranking the engine for an extended period of time and ran it down that way. Assuming that's not the case, although I don't normally just hang on parts, I would replace the battery if this were mine and then see if the problem remains after that. You're going to need one anyway, so you might as well just bite the bullet and do it right away.

It's very common to see the P0106 code set after a battery disconnect or discharge, and it typically will just disappear after a few days. Unfortunate that you replaced the part, because it wasn't necessary.
 

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Hey guys,

New to the forum. I have a 2011 Kia Forte Sedan EX (2.0L) automatic that was running fine until I changed the headlight bulbs. I had to disconnect the battery in order to change the driver's side bulb, and when all was said and done, the car would not idle. I get power (lights, sounds, beeping all works fine), the starter is fine (car turns over), but it just won't stay idling. It turns over and right as its about to idle, something clicks and the rpm's just drop and the engine dies. I tried turning it over maybe 6 times or so and same thing every time.

When I turn the key to the on/ACC position, I hear a constant clicking in the driver's side of the engine block. It's hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from, but sounds like a relay to me. I'm guessing when I disconnected and reconnected the battery, it caused some kind of a short and put a relay out or something.

Anyways, what relays or sensors are in that area? If it's something else, could you all point me in the right direction of what this might be?

Appreciate the help.

Thanks!
 

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IF ANYBODY HAS THE SAME PROBLEM LIKE I HAVE INCLUDING REPLACING THE MAP SENSOR AND CONTINUE WITH THE PROBLEM.
THERE IS A TSB ON KIA FORTE. THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO REMOVE 10A ECU FUSE FROM THE FUSE BOX FOR 10 SECONDS PUT IT IN PLACE BOOM PROBLEM RESOLVE. LOOKS LIKE THAT EVERYTIME YOU DISCONECT THE BATTERY A MESSAGE IS RECORDED ON THE ECU AND THE ONLY WAY TO ERASE IS CUT THE POWER TO ECU SO THE ECU CAN RESET TO FACTORY SPEC.
 

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IF ANYBODY HAS THE SAME PROBLEM LIKE I HAVE INCLUDING REPLACING THE MAP SENSOR AND CONTINUE WITH THE PROBLEM.
THERE IS A TSB ON KIA FORTE. THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO REMOVE 10A ECU FUSE FROM THE FUSE BOX FOR 10 SECONDS PUT IT IN PLACE BOOM PROBLEM RESOLVE. LOOKS LIKE THAT EVERYTIME YOU DISCONECT THE BATTERY A MESSAGE IS RECORDED ON THE ECU AND THE ONLY WAY TO ERASE IS CUT THE POWER TO ECU SO THE ECU CAN RESET TO FACTORY SPEC.
Thank you so much!!! I drove to get cigs at gas station. Ran fine, came out and it was hard to start, not normal. Ran rough once started and waiting at a light it was trying to lurch forward. Ran rough all the way home and once never got above 40mph more/less has not shifting. Also the ECO light stopped working. Made it home and read this forum. Saw your post and tried it. Ran normal and ECO light started working once it had a half tank of gas. Strange electrical gremlins on this beast. Thanks again!!!
 
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