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2011 Koup ABS Pump Module Assembly Failure

475 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  mobileterminaluser

I have searched this forum for "ABS Pump" and other variants of this part name and have found no threads about what I have just experienced. The key was turned off and the pump was still running. Key back on and all the ABS lights are on. Key back off and the pump is running. There is no relay or fuse as they are ingeniously built into the module.

Long story short, my long term mechanic tells me Kia has discontinued the part (they were $2300 new so I would not have been buying one anyway). It is not available and, since they have to be programmed, you cant get a used one because it would not be programable. So Kia has rendered me with no ability to have ABS brakes on the car. I had to unplug the module to keep the pump from running continually.

I just find it hard to believe this is the only case of this, but a general forum and a broader google search did not turn anything up. Any feedback is appreciated.
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Human body Font Slope Parallel Art

If the item highlighted in red, 1st gen 2010 thru 2013 Kia Forte Koup/sedan will work if you find both trims/models at your local junk/salvage yards.

If you're specifically wanting from a Koup, any 1st gen will work for sure.

If from a sedan, just make sure the anatomy, connections match your Koup. From my personal experience at the salvage/junk yards. I've run into more Forte sedans than Koups & most parts can & do fit. Just pay attention to certain/specific parts when it's automatic & standard/manual transmission, 2.0L & 2.4L.
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Answers are mixed. Some say yes while others say no.

It's a pump that will learn on it's own to recalibrate from your vehicle module. Sort f like the VCMA found on 2.4L intake manifolds.

Kia states VCMA needs to be programmed. It doesn't. All I did was check & verify bench test the VCMA rotating gear/cog, clockwise & counterclockwise. My Koups system did all the self calibrating.

If you have a nice OBD2 scanner that has system, sensors, module, PIN, recalibration access (pitch, yaw, angle sensor, BCM, PCM, ECU, ECM, spark, brakes, alarm, injectors, MAP/MAF, fuel, etc) then one doesn't need to drive for a while for the self calibration to occur. I got lucky with one from the local pawnshop that gives me vehicle access goodies.

You can buy one from the junk yard & see. The worst that can happen is it might indeed need dealership recalibration.

Remember to disconnect the battery. Wait several minutes for any residue saved up charge to be drained before messing with anything electrical. Then remove your part then install new to you part check all connections are good secured then hook back up your battery.

bleed the brake lines at the calipers. Test safely on your street & ready at the E brake.
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My pdf 1st gen forte repair/service manual doesn't state the ABS control module (HECU) doesn't need to be programmed to VIN.

Just states to install, bleed at calipers, make sure wheel angle "clock spring" sensor, wheel speed sensors, fuse/relay, master brake cylinder, brake fluid, reservoir cap, brake lines are all in working order, not leaking, in working order & conditions.

The pdf shows extensive checks, self diagnostics/diagnosis & self calibration.
Have you checked the relay or mininf fuse for brakes?

Check the wire harness plug & see if it's connected.
Trying to help & save you $2,000+ on part & dealership service/repairs.

Today's mobile devices & laptops on wheels are wired like Xmas tree lights. One light bulb goes out, one spends lengthy time checking each one till the bad one is found that's causing the problem to make them work.

Vehicles are not like the older vehicles. If something went bad/not working, problem was found & fixed. No spark, check fuse/relay, battery, distributor cap, spark plug wires & plugs.

Now with new modern vehicles, it is check battery, have you tried resetting, this sensor monitoring that sensor that's monitoring those sensors that wired in parallel series checking on the courtesy dome lamp that wired to the hazard switch is causing the problem.

Again, trying to help. Take your anger out on the manufacturer or buy another vehicle from Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, GMC/Chevy, Ford, Dodge, BMW, VW, Audi, a Tesla or buy an older vehicle before modernizing took a permanent hold on vehicles.

Maybe buy 50's, 60's & 70's vehicles?
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Yes I do know what it's for. It's a fancy computerized brake pressure sensing distributor & not straight up block of aluminum/metal with brake lines attached to it.

Like found on older Japanese vehicles & older American vehicles.

Will wood sells these just not fancy computerized sensor enclosed for life brake pressure distributor. One can manually control brake pressure with a knob. Hot rodders, muscle cars & trucks, dragsters, track time, track racing formula 1, GT1 & GT2 use them.
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