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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Kia Cerato/Forte Koup Turbo automatic.
March 2014 build date.

Purchased used in 2017 with only 9000km on the odometer.

However it has never felt like it has the stated 204hp and 265Nm of torque.

First gear easily revs 2500 to 3k rpm and is absolulty sluggish, no boost at all.
Torque management? Not sure. Boost starts to build from second gear.
From stop I have to push the car so hard to beat vans and Yaris's off the line .

In gear acceleration is a little better.
However the engine always feels strained. It never feels effortless like it should be.

I've breifly driven a 2015 koup auto and from memory it felt so much more responsive and effortless. A light push of the pedal would pull the car briskly.

In comparison to my 2014 which has always been sluggish , heavy feeling, ough and just never felt right.

I've always used 98 octane petrol and changed oil every 6 months using top tier synthetic oil.
 

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Hmmmm... weird.
Mine would smoke tires in the first. When 2nd kicked in it would keep spinning them.
I agree, it does not feel like 200 HP engine as the power dies at higher speeds and definitely 200 HP GTI is faster.

Get a Bluetooth dongle and Torque app (pro or lite - free) and see boost levels.
Maybe something is loose or missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmmm... weird.
Mine would smoke tires in the first. When 2nd kicked in it would keep spinning them.
I agree, it does not feel like 200 HP engine as the power dies at higher speeds and definitely 200 HP GTI is faster.

Get a Bluetooth dongle and Torque app (pro or lite - free) and see boost levels.
Maybe something is loose or missing.
Thanks for your reply. It's building boost in that I can hear the turbine spinning.
However first gear is zero boost for sure, feels like a 1.6 non-turbo pulling 1300kg making it sluggish.

However the car never feels spirited. To beat 100hp econoboxes from stop I'm having to push the engine so hard that it feels like damage is being caused.

I'm planning on replacing the spark plugs and PCV valve as the car has now 40000km.
Not expecting it'll solve the issue.

Assuming there is no problem with my vehicles, as I've never had any engine light or anything like that.
Are there any differences engine/ECU wise between 2014 and new models of the YD gen Fortr/Cerato 1.6t?
 

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2014 was the first model with 1.6T, as far as I know in the USA. In late 2014 they modified the engine a bit and all 2015+ had stronger internals.
The platform is shared with Veloster and it was the first one (of the small size) with 1.6 T-GDI - hence the learned engine issues.

Overall - no difference between them. ECU could be different part number and maybe some little settings, but parameters were same. In 2017+ they changed the torque curve starting with max torque at 1500 rpm, when previously it was 1750 rpm.

1st gear is too short to build enough boost. This is normal. But by no means it is a slow car. I had Challengers, Camaros... and we were head to head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If they modified the engine. I'm sure they would have further optimised throttle mapping, shift points, boost parameters etc.
All those things would have a tremendously effect on driveability and low-mid range performance.

I know 2017 are quite different as the engine bay even differs.

Makes sense the 2015 felt so much quicker than 2014.
 

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Makes sense the 2015 felt so much quicker than 2014.
I do not think it felt any different between 2014 and 2016. Even 2017 and all the later models felt more or less the same.
As for mine - 2015 MT vs 2016 AT, the 2015 felt slower at lower speeds (due to faster shifts of AT in 2016), but it felt more powerful at 4th and higher gears due to torque converter wasting 20% of power.


When you say - 1.6 non turbo - I think you are not quite sure you know what you are talking about.
One day a hose slipped from the hot side. Turbo would spool and blow to the ambient. Believe me. It was really slow. Try it yourself. :D

Show me a picture of the engine bay. Nice straight view from the top.
 

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ok, so that's good
did you look for any boost leaks? they would cause the turbo to take more time to build the pressure, but if the leak is small enough it would not cause the max boost issues.
 

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What items and when were replaced?
Spark plugs, filters... any maintenance?
Any aftermarket parts on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've checked the upper engine connections and everything looks tightly clamped down.
Is there a particular area where leaks are common with these engine? I have yet to check the intercooler though, is that a leak prone area?

The car is stock with zero modifications and only 40000km which is around 25k miles.
Other than 6 months oil+ filter changes, I've only changed the engine filter about 2 years ago.

Planning to replace spark plugs, PCV valve and run a can of intake valve cleaner.
 

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spark plugs ok, PCV - maybe - if faulty, cleaner - not necessarily, but if you insist - before replacing spark plugs
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
spark plugs ok, PCV - maybe - if faulty, cleaner - not necessarily, but if you insist - before replacing spark plugs
Will run can of valve cleaner thru the PCV line as it would be the easiest and most direct path to the intake. Also a bottle of injection cleaner. Then replace the spark plugs, PCV valve, change oil and air filter too.

If this won't enhance the performance I don't know what will.

In first & second gear it's only building 8psi of boost. Is this normal? Again with heavy throttle inputs. If the throttle is less than 50% there is no boost. Again is it normal?
 

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Will run can of valve cleaner thru the PCV line as it would be the easiest and most direct path to the intake. Also a bottle of injection cleaner. Then replace the spark plugs, PCV valve, change oil and air filter too.

If this won't enhance the performance I don't know what will.

In first & second gear it's only building 8psi of boost. Is this normal? Again with heavy throttle inputs. If the throttle is less than 50% there is no boost. Again is it normal?
Just a shot in the dark:

Have you looked at your boost valve and boost valve solenoid? If the boost valve is leaking or the solenoid is defective and causing the boost valve to open - that could be your problem.

Product Font Parallel Auto part Pattern
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
No haven't checked those.
Which one would be easier to check first?
I found part number for the solenoid. However i cannot find the part number of the valve?

So basically if the Watergate door is open it will reduce boost levels?
 

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No haven't checked those.
Which one would be easier to check first?
I found part number for the solenoid. However i cannot find the part number of the valve?

So basically if the Watergate door is open it will reduce boost levels?
If your wastegate is open or leaking you will lose boost. The wastegate is on the turbocharger itself,

The boost valve in the cold pipe will cause you to lose boost if it is leaking or opening because of a defective solenoid (the solenoid is on the cold pipe too). The cold pipe is the tube from the intercooler to the throttlebody. If it is leaking it would be hard to detect because it recirculates the pressurized air back into the intake before the turbocharger.

I can't find specs on what your boost should be at specific RPMs - Anybody out there know what the specs are for the turbo boost for a 2014 Kia Koup SX so ForteT can determine if he has a weak turbo or a leak somewhere?
 

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Dyno results have shown this.

Non-sport mode: 197-200-199-198 with around 170-180 to the wheels. Don't forget about drive train loss.

Sport-Mode: 201-204-206-202
Still factoring in drive train loss 170-180 to the wheels. Your perception of 201-204 HP is different from actual testing.

You will also lose just a tad bit more 1-4 hp with the DCT versus manual.
 

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If your wastegate is open or leaking you will lose boost. The wastegate is on the turbocharger itself,

The boost valve in the cold pipe will cause you to lose boost if it is leaking or opening because of a defective solenoid (the solenoid is on the cold pipe too). The cold pipe is the tube from the intercooler to the throttlebody. If it is leaking it would be hard to detect because it recirculates the pressurized air back into the intake before the turbocharger.

I can't find specs on what your boost should be at specific RPMs - Anybody out there know what the specs are for the turbo boost for a 2014 Kia Koup SX so ForteT can determine if he has a weak turbo or a leak somewhere?
I just looked in current data last week and the boost pressure was set at 15psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dyno results have shown this.

Non-sport mode: 197-200-199-198 with around 170-180 to the wheels. Don't forget about drive train loss.

Sport-Mode: 201-204-206-202
Still factoring in drive train loss 170-180 to the wheels. Your perception of 201-204 HP is different from actual testing.

You will also lose just a tad bit more 1-4 hp with the DCT versus manual.
The 2014 does not have driving modes.
 
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