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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new to the forum and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

so to take it back to the beginning about 3 months ago at around 98000 miles the car popped a p0017 code and about 3 days later would not start after already driving to work that day. Since the code is for crank/cam shaft i switch out the crankshaft sensor with one i got from rock auto. After a jump to recharge my battery ( bc the battery was going out and also my dumbass kept trying to turn it over when it wouldnt) it started up and ran for about 4 days. At this point i went and picked up a new battery and 2 camshaft sensor ( bc if one was going out i might as well replace both) and to my avail the car started up like and ran fine for a couple of weeks. After a few weeks it was running really rough( rough acceleration, rough idle, long start, And killing my gas). I assumed i had gotten a bunk part from rock auto but didnt have the time or money to get a new crankshaft sensor and switch it out so i ran it like that as long as i coulld.

fast forward to about a week ago (108000 miles), it got much worse. I was burning a tank of gas every 2 days, would lose any torque when going up any hill and would lose atleast 15mph by the tine i got to the top. I finally switched out the sensor for a new one and it is running better but still cannot get rid of the code. I have since then sldone an oil change, taken both vvt solenoids out and cleaned them and with the advice of a buddy soaked them in marvels mystory oil.I also replaced the spark plugs and pulled the Map sensor and cleaned it to make sure it was reading properly.

car is running so much better and the only issue im seeing now is rough idles every know and then, and long starting. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2011 Forte EX sedan
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Aftermarket sensors may read a little off compared to OEM ones which could cause the long starting if the computer is receiving incorrect timing information, you want to go with OEM as much as possible when it comes to electronics. I’d pull one from a junkyard and see if that helps anything.
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, Wagner-Tuning Intercooler, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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...about 3 months ago at around 98000 miles the car popped a p0017 code...
With the trouble you are currently having, did you run a scan for new codes?

I would consider replacing the MAP sensor with a new factory MAP sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With the trouble you are currently having, did you run a scan for new codes?

I would consider replacing the MAP sensor with a new factory MAP sensor.
the last time i tan the codes was 2days ago and it popped the map sensor code for the first tine and is continuously throwing the p0017 code. I also had a misfire on cylinder 2&4 and also a random misfire.
 

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'21 Forte FE 6-Speed
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the last time i tan the codes was 2days ago and it popped the map sensor code for the first tine and is continuously throwing the p0017 code. I also had a misfire on cylinder 2&4 and also a random misfire.
Sounds like it needs a set of spark plugs too. Also agree with others on the suggestion to replace the cam sensor with a genuine Kia part.
 

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2017 Kia Forte LX
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Where did you get the cam sensors? If at Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly or Pep Boys etc.,etc. you most likely have a crappy sensor. Aftermarket sensors offered by supply chain stores are NOT calibrated properly for your car. I'd suggest getting your sensors from a Kia dealership or salvage yard and seeing what happens. Maybe check your catalytic converter to see if it's coming apart and get a can of THROTTLE BODY cleaner (not carburetor) and clean your throttle body. I had to replace a coil pack on my 2017 Forte LX right around 100,000 miles, but other than that, regular maintenance is ALL I've really had to do. Cheap plastic plug on the blower motor and a trunk lock are repairs I have done myself too. Easy shit. Then about a year and a half after the trunk lock, I got a recall notice. I no longer had my receipt for it, so I just let that one go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Where did you get the cam sensors? If at Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly or Pep Boys etc.,etc. you most likely have a crappy sensor. Aftermarket sensors offered by supply chain stores are NOT calibrated properly for your car. I'd suggest getting your sensors from a Kia dealership or salvage yard and seeing what happens. Maybe check your catalytic converter to see if it's coming apart and get a can of THROTTLE BODY cleaner (not carburetor) and clean your throttle body. I had to replace a coil pack on my 2017 Forte LX right around 100,000 miles, but other than that, regular maintenance is ALL I've really had to do. Cheap plastic plug on the blower motor and a trunk lock are repairs I have done myself too. Easy shit. Then about a year and a half after the trunk lock, I got a recall notice. I no longer had my receipt for it, so I just let that one go.
Aside from the first crankshaft sensor i got from rock auto the second crankshaft sensor and both canshaft sensor were all from oreillys.
Since i replaced both cam sensors with oreillys would it not throw another code for the intake one aswell since they are both aftermarket parts? Or did i maybe just get lucky with that one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like it needs a set of spark plugs too. Also agree with others on the suggestion to replace the cam sensor with a genuine Kia part.
I replaced the spark plugs the day after those misfire codes popped up and it has definitely help with performance but it is still is rough idleing and long starting and has started to bog down on hills again. The weird thing is it is very inconsistent. It will run fine for a long while and then a random hill it will bog down and then the next hill it will pull fine( not perfect but not losing speed).
 

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Aside from the first crankshaft sensor i got from rock auto the second crankshaft sensor and both canshaft sensor were all from oreillys.
Since i replaced both cam sensors with oreillys would it not throw another code for the intake one aswell since they are both aftermarket parts? Or did i maybe just get lucky with that one?
It’s possible you got lucky. Sometimes they are fine with aftermarket, sometimes not.

I replaced the spark plugs the day after those misfire codes popped up and it has definitely help with performance but it is still is rough idleing and long starting and has started to bog down on hills again. The weird thing is it is very inconsistent. It will run fine for a long while and then a random hill it will bog down and then the next hill it will pull fine( not perfect but not losing speed).
How bad were the old plugs? If the gap was pretty big it can overwork the coils and cause them to fail too. Was it a specific cylinder misfire or general misfire code?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It’s possible you got lucky. Sometimes they are fine with aftermarket, sometimes not.


How bad were the old plugs? If the gap was pretty big it can overwork the coils and cause them to fail too. Was it a specific cylinder misfire or general misfire code?
The old plugs didnt look to bad but there was a lil bit of what looked like rust on the end where the spark comes from. I can upload pics of them when i get home.
When the cylinder missfire codes came it was cylinder 2&4 and another general misfire code.
 

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2017 Kia Forte LX
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Maybe get yourself a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner and run it through a couple of tanks of gas. Did you check the cat con? Just tap it with a rubber mallet and listen for rattling sounds inside it. If you hear rattling, then it's starting to break apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would recommend removing the valve cover and check the timing just to be sure. P0017 is a timing correlation code for the exhaust.
I would try but im not very experienced in. Essing with taking the cover off and messing with timing and i wouldnt wanna make it worse.
Maybe get yourself a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner and run it through a couple of tanks of gas. Did you check the cat con? Just tap it with a rubber mallet and listen for rattling sounds inside it. If you hear rattling, then it's starting to break apart.
will definitely be doing that have been worried recently that maybe a fuel injector is clogged or something in the fuel system is running weird.

when the car boggs down i can put my foot to the floor on the gas and its like its not giving it any gas to go and the gas pedal has very little resistance.When i have the power and it pulls properly i have a lot of resistance past about halfway to the floor.
 

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I would try but im not very experienced in. Essing with taking the cover off and messing with timing and i wouldnt wanna make it worse.

will definitely be doing that have been worried recently that maybe a fuel injector is clogged or something in the fuel system is running weird.

when the car boggs down i can put my foot to the floor on the gas and its like its not giving it any gas to go and the gas pedal has very little resistance.When i have the power and it pulls properly i have a lot of resistance past about halfway to the floor.
That sounds like it could possibly be a bad gas pedal then. These things aren’t cable throttle, but drive by wire. The gas pedal is an electrical device that tells the computer how much you’re pressing it and tells the throttle body to give a certain amount of angle depending on a bunch of things. It’s possible it’s having an intermittent issue although I wouldn’t think you’d be able to feel it, but I guess you never know. Unless you are feeling something that isn’t happening or associating things that aren’t happening, which is very possible. I’ve done it a couple times with strange issues like this
 
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