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If you drag race, then I would say go for it. My friend had a VW Golf R, he would complete 11.5 index class. He would be a tick behind because the Golf 4 has a bit of delay from mashing the pedal to when the car reacts. He would lose races that way since it was heads with a .400 Pro Tree.

Otherwise like I said you likely won't need it and a more touchy pedal might lead to more wheel spin. Spinning isn't winning.
Yep I've got the RS Chip. Considering the GTS but at the same time there's always an element of risk involved. I think the RS just worked better for me in terms of value (almost half the price of the GTS down under).

Spot on, right now, if I foot down the pedal, the car wheel spins quite hard (I can't remember wheel spinning without the racechip?). So I would need to accelerate quite gently to avoid the wheelspin already. The pedal box would be used to change the sensitivity of putting the foot down on the accelerator and I can't see it really helping that much...
 

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It would help mainly with reaction time in drag racing. I was very close to getting a DCT but I was concerned with increasing power and the stock clutch in the DCT not being able to take the power increase, sticky tires and drag launches.

This car has quite a bit of potential.
 

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So, what needs to be done/spent to get these 1.6Ts to 300HP?
 

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So, what needs to be done/spent to get these 1.6Ts to 300HP?
What is that based on when earlier cars didn't make that much power with bolt-ons and a gasoline tune? Bolt-ons add marginal gains after the tune. It is not a good ROI at all. Tune provides the best value. Followed by E85, water-methanol and one thing I won't mention.

One Veloster turbo makes 270 whp with E85 and water methanol injection and air filter as it's only mods and is automatic not even DCT.

Another made 270 whp with all the bolt-ons and water methanol injection.

Just hold on I'll show you how to make 300+ whp. If you are worried about your warranty leave it stock.
 

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What is that based on when earlier cars didn't make that much power with bolt-ons and a gasoline tune? Bolt-ons add marginal gains after the tune. It is not a good ROI at all. Tune provides the best value. Followed by E85, water-methanol and one thing I won't mention.

One Veloster turbo makes 270 whp with E85 and water methanol injection and air filter as it's only mods and is automatic not even DCT.

Another made 270 whp with all the bolt-ons and water methanol injection.

Just hold on I'll show you how to make 300+ whp. If you are worried about your warranty leave it stock.
Bruh I am even willing to do an engine swap and drop a 1.6t in my FE 😂 might cost less than adding a turbo actually!
 

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That makes the most sense. If you can do it cheaper than buying a used performance car.

Try car-parts.com look for a wrecked Veloster Rally Turbo, 2019-2020 basically from the windshield forward and the exhaust.
 

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Or maybe a 2.0 turbo from an Optima SX turbo. 250hp.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Funny enough, the first thing that came up when I searched car-parts.com was a Veloster N motor which is the same. They want $4K though.
 

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2020 KIA Forte GT Manual
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Funny enough, the first thing that came up when I searched car-parts.com was a Veloster N motor which is the same. They want $4K though.
Looks like you might as well upgrade to a GT if you're going to spend that kind of money. At least there will be installments.
 

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Looks like you might as well upgrade to a GT if you're going to spend that kind of money. At least there will be installments.
Yeah but we're talking about spending $3000 over the next 6 months just to get the car equal to its value so I can trade it in. I could take that money and swap instead, and keep the car I've already put speakers, rims, springs, intake/exhaust on...

And I could sell the 2.0 after it's swapped out and recoup some of the losses.
 

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all that stuff can be removed and some of it carried over. Regardless, you would be taking a hit. Kia's dont have good resale or trade in value. you can do the swap and perhaps maybe save money, which i doubt considering how many swaps i have seen in the past 30 years. they always go over budget. upgrading to a GT will at least give you a warranty, which a swap will not.
 

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Or maybe a 2.0 turbo from an Optima SX turbo. 250hp.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
That is if the engine control will talk to the body control computer.

Veloster N likely would be easier since it's pretty much the same as the sedans.

Like I said we are getting into say used Neon SRT-4 territory. About $10,000 total investment it will run mid 10's in the 1/4 mile = 500+ hp stock block/head.

KDM turbo upgrade currently $960-$5000. (1.6T)

One turbo kit in the works and no it won't be a bargain. Its on a test car already and running.
 

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2020 Kia Forte GT Hatchback DCT
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I think a downpipe, exhaust and ecu tune will pop you well over 300. But the consideration here is the 7 year warranty... it's probably not worth trading a 7 year warranty for more power...
Don't forget about changing that stock intercooler as well.
 

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Like I said, intercooler upgrades that actually fits without modification is a poor return on investment (ROI). It solves only one issue when two associated with performance are ignored. I have inlet temps logs, it never went over 130 degrees 3rd gear WOT.

Recent test of Greddy direct fit for the 10th Gen Honda Civic So showed 1.7 hp lost over stock.

Again the assumption is the factories have no idea what they are doing.

So $700 spent no increase in horsepower or torque. The Wagner and Sixth Element upgrade is equally expensive. No direct fit the assumption is made for the Veloster turbo it should fit.

Done correctly WNI will result in serious temp drop. Reports of 20 degrees below ambient are normal. On a typical 80 degree day inlet temps post intercooler are 60 degrees, you will not accomplish that with an off the shelf intercooler upgrade.

Leaving that alone, octane or should I say timing is one of the areas with the most power gain derived from a tune.

At 18-19 psi the stock turbo is nearly maxed out. The best thing to do is to increase mass air flow without heating up the air more. You can increase boost more with water-methanol alone than intercooler.

It can be installed and removed easily for warranty work or at the time for resell.

On top of all of that it cost less. Like I said watch this space.
 

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Yep I've got the RS Chip. Considering the GTS but at the same time there's always an element of risk involved. I think the RS just worked better for me in terms of value (almost half the price of the GTS down under).

Spot on, right now, if I foot down the pedal, the car wheel spins quite hard (I can't remember wheel spinning without the racechip?). So I would need to accelerate quite gently to avoid the wheelspin already. The pedal box would be used to change the sensitivity of putting the foot down on the accelerator and I can't see it really helping that much...

Lou
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  • Hi There

    I also own a Cerato GT hatch auto, and I'm thinking of of buying the Race Chip (RS Chip) as you have stated . I am based in Vic Australia
    Can you advise:
    • What was the cost of the Race Chip (RS Chip)
    • Did you install this chip?
    • How does it drive?
    • The extra power of the chip obtained (was it on a dyno)
    Have you done acceleration run with the chip ie 0 100km , & 400m
 

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Can you advise:
  • What was the cost of the Race Chip (RS Chip)
    • 625, got mine from cherrytuning.com.au Think it's slightly cheaper if you do the US > AUD conversion right now.
  • Did you install this chip?
    • The guy helped me install it, but i've uninstalled and installed it twice now for servicing already so it's quite simple. A little bit daunting the first time but it's VERY straightforward.
  • How does it drive?
    • Magnificent. Basically a completely different car, there are heaps of comments in the whirlpool thread in the Cerato on the Race Chip. I'm at a point where the car doesn't feel 'normal' without it. The torque boost using the Race Chip is ridiculous.
  • The extra power of the chip obtained (was it on a dyno)
    • For me, I haven't dyno'd, trying to save $$ already lol. But I posted a pandaworks dyno run earlier. Given the base wHP seems unusually low on that video but the end result seems about right.
  • Have you done acceleration run with the chip ie 0 100km , & 400m
    • I'm based in Sydney CBD so I haven't. Might give it a go though.
 

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Has anyone installed the HKS SSQV BOV? I'm curious if I will need to buy some vacuum line for it or if the line from the stock BPV is sufficient.
 

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Can you advise:
  • What was the cost of the Race Chip (RS Chip)
    • 625, got mine from cherrytuning.com.au Think it's slightly cheaper if you do the US > AUD conversion right now.
  • Did you install this chip?
    • The guy helped me install it, but i've uninstalled and installed it twice now for servicing already so it's quite simple. A little bit daunting the first time but it's VERY straightforward.
  • How does it drive?
    • Magnificent. Basically a completely different car, there are heaps of comments in the whirlpool thread in the Cerato on the Race Chip. I'm at a point where the car doesn't feel 'normal' without it. The torque boost using the Race Chip is ridiculous.
  • The extra power of the chip obtained (was it on a dyno)
    • For me, I haven't dyno'd, trying to save $$ already lol. But I posted a pandaworks dyno run earlier. Given the base wHP seems unusually low on that video but the end result seems about right.
  • Have you done acceleration run with the chip ie 0 100km , & 400m
    • I'm based in Sydney CBD so I haven't. Might give it a go though.
Hey there, I'm looking into getting the race chip myself, but am worried about my car since its stock, there's no supporting mods yet. I'm not familiar with modding cars and what the limitations are so I was worried putting in a chip tune might blow something out if I don't have other things in the car upgraded. That said, When you installed your race chip was your forte gt stock?
 
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