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Discussion Starter #243 (Edited)
Has anyone here grabbed the SXTH Element tune? It's amazing how little aftermarket info is around.
There is some really good information out there. There is a FB page ( Kia Forte GT Turbo Club) with alot of cool things and information on our cars. Also check out the links in the first page. I try to update it when i can.
 

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There is no risk at all.

I was just looking at my logs. AFR is 11.8 at high load 18.5 psi with 116 degrees iat (inlet temps as measured at the manifold).

That is Map 3 at night with a ambient of 70 degrees.

Water temps are under 200 degrees.

Those data points tell me a few things -

1) More E85 can be ran I'd say E40 which might allow more ignition advance. With a bench flash you can run 100% E85 and the advantages of that is more heat is pulled from the combustion chamber. It's the cheap thing to do but other fuels have much higher BTU's than E85.

Also pump E85 is cut with 87 octane unleaded and becomes unstable at high rpm which is the advantage of racing grade E85 and allows you to keep the majority of your timing advance.

That's important especially at the strip or any other competitive driving where you spent a good amount of time in 3rd and 4th gear which is max load as well.

2) Map 5 which offers no tapering of boost looks like it will hold 20 psi to fuel cut (6700 rpm)

Nothing is getting hot, glowing red or any of that stuff, we are working within the window of the stock tune but have access to all the same information the stock PCM has. We aren't over-revving the engine either, which is more about timing chain life between changes.

That's why got the JB4 and the very next thing I bought was BMS water-methanol injection. I am waiting for the map sensor adaptor to come back from back order.

I am about to embark on Race Week 2.0. There is no reason to assume that as long as you work within the car's limits that it will break down. If it's going to break it's going to be in the first couple of thousand miles. I am over 9500 as the car sits.

That's five days, making at least one pass at every drag strip. Max ambient temps will be around the time the track goes hot (4 pm), with a fully functional water-methanol system there's no concerns and the goal like Hot Rod Drag Week is to get your run in early, make a qualifying run which in my case is an ET of 13.0x and get on down the road.

That said one of my side goals was just more track time. So I will likely make 3-4 passes a day. That's 13-20 passes over a week and over 1,000 miles between all the tracks. Not to mention the 1,500 mile drive from LA to Topeka and then back.

If I thought for a minute the car couldn't do it, I wouldn't have entered it.
I hear you brother. I live in KC. There are places to race these cafs?
 

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To anyone looking to upgrade bulbs with LED's or just replacing in general, here's the official bulb size guide from Kia's service manual. Good luck with all the upgrades, I've had fun keeping up with all your projects and ideas :cool:
 

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yeah I live in an area with only 87 so I don't know if it'll be worth it. I do have E85 gas station I can essentially mix up to 15% ethanol with the 87 to bump up octane.

80574


barely get 88 octane bwhahahah
 

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So bought a sixth element catch can, hks colder plugs, Takeda cai. Found a shop near me that works with rice burning turbos hehe

I have 93 octane so gonna have them dyno for base then after. I'll post what is going on.
 

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I hear you brother. I live in KC. There are places to race these cars?
Heartland Park has a road course, autocross course/drift area and a 1/4 mile drag strip. Great Bend is also in Kansas is 1/4 mile drag strip.

I'm sure there more places to go but I'm not fully familiar with that area.
 

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So bought a sixth element catch can, hks colder plugs, Takeda cai. Found a shop near me that works with rice burning turbos hehe

I have 93 octane so gonna have them dyno for base then after. I'll post what is going on.
You won't gain anything other than the fuel used over 87 octane. These cars have tight torque controls, anything that increases torque which in-turn increases horsepower will be tamped down by the engine controls.

2019-up Gamma II cars don't respond to "bolt-ons" and the boost fluctuates when you try to increase power that way.

You also don't need a shop to do any of this stuff -

10 mm socket for the three bolts that hold the airbox in. You need a phillips screwdriver to undo the clamps that hold the intake tube on.

To install the Takeda intake just repeat the steps in reverse.

The spark plugs are easy as well -

Remove the engine cover, pull off one coil wire at a time. I typically start left to right. You need a 5/8 spark plug socket with an extension, 6 inches should be enough. The plugs should come pre-gapped but I would check anyway, if you have feeler gauges this is easy.

Oh and FYI the Sxth Element catch can doesn't work with the AFE intake, they use the same space. IMHO the stock turbo doesn't push enough air to warrant using one as long as your PVC valve is working properly. This whole notion that you need a catch can for a little bit of oil that makes it into your intake system is not an issue. It will take thousands and thousands of miles to muck up the intake valves. At that point walnut blast the intake valves and keep going.

My solution is to run water-methanol injection. It will steam clean the engine every time it's used but you'll gain power with water-methanol injection, along with the cleaning action while a catch can does nothing largely but take up space and maybe collect a teaspoon size amount of oil over thousands of miles.

I can't keep putting my car on the dyno, but I was on it last week.

JB4 with v21 alpha firmware w/ fuel wire connected is the only mod, all else stock including plugs, stock heat range, re-gapped to .22

Map 1 Pump Gas 217 whp
Map 1 "Stuff" 234 whp
Map 3 same as above 244 whp
Map 4 same as above 251 whp

Each preset map is a 1 psi increase from Map 1 to Map 5. Maps 1-4 all feature tapper, IE the car makes less boost after 5000-6000 rpm.

There was a little bit of timing issue meaning I didn't have enough octane, so more power is available, maybe to hit 260 whp.

If you're really interested in making power skip the bolt-ons or at least get the tune first which has been the case with direct injected turbocharged cars since they first appeared. They are torque based tuned and keeping tight torque control means volumetric changes like intake and exhaust don't work and might cause drivability problems without a tune.
 

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It's a bargain for the amount of things it's capable of. They don't offer discounts, but the others aren't better products either.

That said if you want to run E85 or WMI, among other things you want the JB4 and it's worth the price compared to bench flashes.

You can get a bench flash for just under $500. I know Tork and LAP3 have more options such as E85, 2 step launch control and higher rev limits. Sxth offers a OE+ tune that basically fixes the rich condition, cleans up the timing curve a bit and increase boost maybe 1-2 psi at most which is the most you can get away with on pump gas and the stock intercooler.

It really depends how much power you want to make and it's not risky, we aren't running the engine hotter or turning it more RPM, all things that would shorten its lifespan.

My goal is 300whp and I'm already at 251 whp
 

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yeah I live in an area with only 87 so I don't know if it'll be worth it. I do have E85 gas station I can essentially mix up to 15% ethanol with the 87 to bump up octane.

View attachment 80574

barely get 88 octane bwhahahah
Where in the US only gets 87 octane? No name brand fueling stations? If you are on a Indian Reservation I can sort of seeing that being possible.
 
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