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Wonder how the factory splash guards would look painted gloss/piano black like the front/side/back skirts?
Depends on the cars body color. Gloss black splash guards would look good on a black Forte. The front/rear skirts are a combination of matte and gloss black and the splash guards being matte matches them better...IMO.
 

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Panda is running a couple sales and restocked on forte parts! Everyone keep eyes out for deals whenever you see them for the gang !


83128
83129
 

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is the installation difficult? Did you do it yourself or take it to a shop?



Ordered my new RGB LED velossa lip.


New led lip:

Led full kit:

Examples:

View attachment 82675

View attachment 82676

View attachment 82678

View attachment 82677
 

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Anyone happen to have been able to find the bore size and stroke for the NA models? I’m working on a turbo conversion based on the other 2.0l turbos that Hyundai-Kia already make.
 

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I don't understand how that is of value.

It's likely all the dimensions are the same between the N/A engines and the boosted engines. Not sure how that information benefits you in your "turbo conversion" as if that's an original idea and never been attempted...

Your main concern should be how you going to control your direct injection system and provide boost control? Is the stock fuel system large enough to accommodate the power output you want and is the transmission strong enough for double the torque that turbo engines are capable of compared to N/A?

I am going to say it again, all this brainstorming to put a square peg into a round hole is why Muscle Car owners generally laugh at tuners. Far too much thought is put into stuff and it almost never pans out like they thought or is never attempted.

Case in point a data set would have been created by the long term/daily use of nitrous oxide by a Acura TL owner. He never followed through with the project so valuable information was never learned. Lots of V8's run nitrous all the time without any engine damage but tuners more often than not myself included keep jacking up the power until something goes wrong which is usually not looking at the potential power increase from a 3D perspective.

You have two choices IMHO and this is based on decades of experience in this game -

1) Buy a second vehicle. Lots of factory forced induced cars out there for reasonable prices, many under $8,000 including Mazdaspeed 3, even 1st gen Hyundai Sonata Sport (Turbocharged) or its twin the Kia Optima SX. You would be starting from a higher base power wise with a car that's already turbocharged.

2) Trade-in the N/A Forte for a Forte GT, Elantra N-Line, etc

Put another way, if you finished your project; Would you subject it to a competition like Hot Rod Drag Week? If the answer is no, then don't attempt such a thing. Any modern sporty car or performance car can do that event, run the A/C all the time and not worry about it at all. Both of PFI Speed's Honda entries which don't come from the factory turbocharged obviously did a similar event Race Week 1.0 without a worry other than one of the car boiling fuel which typically isn't a problem but when your build is not held to the same standards as car manufacturers you can get away with potentially problematic issues like that.

The solution was to run E85... Interesting, they run on E85 at the track. Running pump gas was an attempt to get better fuel economy.

Anyway my point is unless your build can stand up to the worse conditions possible, don't attempt it. Unless you like working on your stuff all the time and trust me once you get into your 40's and 50's especially if your married and your honey do list is quite long, putting off stuff and the rest of it. You don't want to take care of nagging problems with your transportation.

Not trying to throw cold water on any idea, but if you thought it through and added up the time in research, you would see that doing either idea I suggested would have you out there driving the car, not subjecting your daily driver to experimentation when you rely on it for transportation to work, asking me now I know that and how it cost you much more money than you think it does.

Luckily for me I went from having two cars non-operable to the Kia back on the road and I am contemplating adding a 3rd vehicle.

All of them forced induced. No playing around with trying to make a slow car fast.
 

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I don't understand how that is of value.

It's likely all the dimensions are the same between the N/A engines and the boosted engines. Not sure how that information benefits you in your "turbo conversion" as if that's an original idea and never been attempted...

Your main concern should be how you going to control your direct injection system and provide boost control? Is the stock fuel system large enough to accommodate the power output you want and is the transmission strong enough for double the torque that turbo engines are capable of compared to N/A?

I am going to say it again, all this brainstorming to put a square peg into a round hole is why Muscle Car owners generally laugh at tuners. Far too much thought is put into stuff and it almost never pans out like they thought or is never attempted.

Case in point a data set would have been created by the long term/daily use of nitrous oxide by a Acura TL owner. He never followed through with the project so valuable information was never learned. Lots of V8's run nitrous all the time without any engine damage but tuners more often than not myself included keep jacking up the power until something goes wrong which is usually not looking at the potential power increase from a 3D perspective.

You have two choices IMHO and this is based on decades of experience in this game -

1) Buy a second vehicle. Lots of factory forced induced cars out there for reasonable prices, many under $8,000 including Mazdaspeed 3, even 1st gen Hyundai Sonata Sport (Turbocharged) or its twin the Kia Optima SX. You would be starting from a higher base power wise with a car that's already turbocharged.

2) Trade-in the N/A Forte for a Forte GT, Elantra N-Line, etc

Put another way, if you finished your project; Would you subject it to a competition like Hot Rod Drag Week? If the answer is no, then don't attempt such a thing. Any modern sporty car or performance car can do that event, run the A/C all the time and not worry about it at all. Both of PFI Speed's Honda entries which don't come from the factory turbocharged obviously did a similar event Race Week 1.0 without a worry other than one of the car boiling fuel which typically isn't a problem but when your build is not held to the same standards as car manufacturers you can get away with potentially problematic issues like that.

The solution was to run E85... Interesting, they run on E85 at the track. Running pump gas was an attempt to get better fuel economy.

Anyway my point is unless your build can stand up to the worse conditions possible, don't attempt it. Unless you like working on your stuff all the time and trust me once you get into your 40's and 50's especially if your married and your honey do list is quite long, putting off stuff and the rest of it. You don't want to take care of nagging problems with your transportation.

Not trying to throw cold water on any idea, but if you thought it through and added up the time in research, you would see that doing either idea I suggested would have you out there driving the car, not subjecting your daily driver to experimentation when you rely on it for transportation to work, asking me now I know that and how it cost you much more money than you think it does.

Luckily for me I went from having two cars non-operable to the Kia back on the road and I am contemplating adding a 3rd vehicle.

All of them forced induced. No playing around with trying to make a slow car fast.
Tbh it’s just an idea. And I’d be making sure everything is set up in the proper way before actually delving into it. And I was honestly thinking about waiting til I got a second car before it as well for that reason so I don’t screw my only car. But I’ve also thought about doing an engine swap instead so I can get one that comes turbo’d and not have to worry about those issues. It’s all just ideas right now. I do wanna say thank you to everyone who is expressing their opinion without just bashing my ideas. Social media hasn’t been so nice to ppl I know I so I sincerely appreciate that honesty and respect.
 

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FYI... aFe is having a July 4th sale going on right now!

The aFe Takeda Momentum Cold Air Intake System is $311.13 for either the Dry S or the Pro 5R version.

I just ordered the Pro5 R and a Filter Restore Kit


Ugh! Fucking aFe has no problem taking your order and charging your credit card when they don't even have stock to ship. Nowhere on the product page, cart, or order acknowledgement does it say out of stock or backordered.

WTF! Expected ship date September 3rd lol -- and I only found that out after sending an email asking for an ETA as my cleaning/oil kit shipped and arrived. Shitty practices if you ask me...and against FTC laws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #593 ·
Ugh! Fucking aFe has no problem taking your order and charging your credit card when they don't even have stock to ship. Nowhere on the product page, cart, or order acknowledgement does it say out of stock or backordered.

WTF! Expected ship date September 3rd lol -- and I only found that out after sending an email asking for an ETA as my cleaning/oil kit shipped and arrived. Shitty practices if you ask me...and against FTC laws.
Honestly what is the rush to get it? You getting one the best intakes on the market for $311 ish. Compared to the other companies also having stock issues for hundreds more than this. 🤷‍♂️. My family also purchased it during the sale and have no issues being on a list to get it. Cant beat the price. Just be patient. Covid played a big issue also. Companies are slowly catching up to get on the normal. 🙂. I waited a month to get mine.
 

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It's not the wait...it's the fact they make it look like they have stock when I placed the order and they don't. Plus, you shouldn't charge a credit card until the time is ready to ship unless it's stated as a pre-order.

Every site I saw selling it shows some kind of availability listed on the product page...aFE didn't so one would think they have stock. Or at least note it/proclaim your stock situation and wait time on the Order Acknowledgement.

Can't blame COVID-19 on bad practices and website implementation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #595 ·
It's not the wait...it's the fact they make it look like they have stock when I placed the order and they don't. Plus, you shouldn't charge a credit card until the time is ready to ship unless it's stated as a pre-order.

Every site I saw selling it shows some kind of availability listed on the product page...aFE didn't so one would think they have stock. Or at least note it/proclaim your stock situation and wait time on the Order Acknowledgement.

Can't blame COVID-19 on bad practices and website implementation.
Most of AFE, SXTH, Evilla Motorsports ect companies.. are "like" pre order items now. Because they need to be made because of low stock or so many orders arldy placed. Ive many items on back order with payment taken. I have no issues because i know they will return my money if I cant get. What happens when u forget u ordered it and the funds are not there when rdy to ship or the card on file is no longer valid because of some stupid shit? Now u are in a bind and a longer wait. Im not blaming covid for everything but does play a part. Just be happy u are on a list before others and thier orders. If not happy with the company can always cancel.
 

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Tbh it’s just an idea. And I’d be making sure everything is set up in the proper way before actually delving into it. And I was honestly thinking about waiting til I got a second car before it as well for that reason so I don’t screw my only car. But I’ve also thought about doing an engine swap instead so I can get one that comes turbo’d and not have to worry about those issues. It’s all just ideas right now. I do wanna say thank you to everyone who is expressing their opinion without just bashing my ideas. Social media hasn’t been so nice to ppl I know I so I sincerely appreciate that honesty and respect.
An engine swap on a modern car is probably an even bigger challenge than adding boost to a car that was never meant for it. Both require a huge amount of money and time, only to end up with a car that is, frankly, probably pretty mediocre. As @AThomas said, get yourself a factory turbocharged car as a project. You will get much better results at a lower cost, and still have something you might be able to spend more time driving than wrenching on. Otherwise, you're probably just going to end up with an endless garage queen project that never sees the road and that you will eventually sell for a $3K as-is to some clueless kid. That's not a knock on you, it's just the way these things tend to work out if you aren't a professional car builder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #597 ·
It's not the wait...it's the fact they make it look like they have stock when I placed the order and they don't. Plus, you shouldn't charge a credit card until the time is ready to ship unless it's stated as a pre-order.

Every site I saw selling it shows some kind of availability listed on the product page...aFE didn't so one would think they have stock. Or at least note it/proclaim your stock situation and wait time on the Order Acknowledgement.

Can't blame COVID-19 on bad practices and website implementation.
They sent me a update about my order and offered me two options to return my money or wait. They at least contact me. I bought this intake for a family member. This goes for credit cards, debit cards and affirm orders. They reached out to me.
83191


83192
 

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Yeah, I never got any of those correspondences from them. I had to contact them.

Not too much of a biggie, but they should state on their product page and/or Order Acknowledgments whether it's in stock to ship or backordered and the ETA. Just saying...those are good business practices.
 

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Yeah, I never got any of those correspondences from them. I had to contact them.

Not too much of a biggie, but they should state on their product page and/or Order Acknowledgments whether it's in stock to ship or backordered and the ETA. Just saying...those are good business practices.
Two ways of looking at it -with aftermarket parts selling...it is usually FEAST OR FAMINE! If they state that the item is not available then people don't order - they can't know when more people want them if no one orders one.

Typically they don't keep enough in stock because sales are low and they expect the manufacturer to "churn" them out if the demand goes high. Not the best for us consumers...but I'm still glad they're out there selling us stuff we want!
 

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Given the backorder of the AFe closed intake, the question should be asked: What benefits you more = Cold Air or More Flow?

More flow does not mean cooler air. A larger pipe on the end of the compressor inlet with a huge filter is the more flow argument. Seeing a 8-10 whp gain with the hood up is not how you drive the car obviously and with the air intake located in the radiator support, means that is not a source of cooler air, actually near whatever the boundary layer of what the air is in front of the radiator temperature wise.

Cooler air comes in many forms. In a static sense that would be the Velossa Tech inlet "scoop" which grabs the cooler air ahead of the radiator. I posted elsewhere that Garrett engineer has stated that the air going into the turbo is just as critical as the air is after the intercooler. As Gale Banks has put it, the intercooler has to sweep up behind the turbo which is actually called after cooling, but we'll let that go.

Data is hard to come by again... My speculation is that the scoop is what you want more than flow. The horsepower potential is much higher as with cooler air you get more oxygen and more density, which all means more power.

In other words it's not one or the other, it's BOTH. That applies to quite a few things as you see in the near future.
 
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