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Precisely today, I went to the Dyno to check what did I gained with the following mods:
1. aFe Takeda Stage 2 CAI
2. xForce with Varex cat-back

The results were a little disappointing.
View attachment 87644

Looking for the pics, I found a ridiculous coincidence. Last year precisely on June 3, 2021, I tested the car with only one mod, the RaceChip piggyback chip. With these results: View attachment 87645

From 192 to 236 hp and 214 to 281 lbs torque.

Today (yesterday) June 3, 2022, I only got from 236 to 243 hp and 281 to 296 lbs. torque.

RaceChip GTS gained 44 hps (23%) and 67 lbs torque (32%) for less than $500.
CAI + cat-back gained 7 hps (3%) and 15 lbs torque (5%) for about $1,400 plus some $400 additional installation charge.
Both mods gained 51 hps (27%) and 82 lbs torque (38%) for about $2,300

Now one for those "turbo heads" in the forum, the dyno operator pointed me to see how rich the mix is, and checking the last dyno test, I found the same behavior. I believe I know the answer to my question. The car's computer must be tuned to accommodate the mods. And my problem is that I didn't want to do that kind of tweak to the engine. So now I must decide to keep down the rabbit hole or take the blue pill and stay with what I got so far. 🤔🧐

Don't get me wrong, I'm a happy camper so far. The difference I felt driving the car, I believe, was the improvement in torque and not hp.

Cheers!
There is no "tweaking" involved, but hold on a second.

Are you saying all you did was install the Racechip and using the base map that it's set on when you bought it? I find that highly unlikely.

What exactly have I done to tweak the JB4? Nothing!

All I have done which is what a few people have a problem with is install the JB4, that's it. No intake, exhaust, plugs, etc, etc.

The car picked up 4 hp with lighter wheels.

Map 0 = 195 (91)
Map 1 = 211 whp (91)
Map 2 = 216 whp (91)

Any higher than that no power was made, the knock limit of 91 is right there and applies to using "all the boost" on other devices such as the Racechip.

All I did was change the fuel.

I mixed pump E85 up to 40% with 91, that isn't ideal at all and not for the reasons you typically think like concentration of ethanol.

Map 1 = 222 whp
Map 2 = 232 whp
Map 3 = 240 whp
Map 4 = 246 whp
Map 5 = 251 whp

Map 7 which is WMI made 227 whp

The only torque numbers I remember the highest which is 271 ft lbs.

In discussions I often have with Olszewski is the template of Tune, Intake, Exhaust, Downpipe is very 1990's.

You need far less if the time is taken to optimize each part you have invested in.

The reason why your gains are low with cat-back exhaust means that there isn't much restriction with the stock exhaust, what you wanted was more noise, not more power.

Same with the intake, early on looking at the AFe and comparing that to the intakes I've had on other vehicles, I knew this was the best intake for power production, the others are for intake noise.

The main cork in the exhaust is the tiny turbine housing of the stock turbo, nothing you do will reduce the back pressure to psi ratio to 2:1 still not 1:1 (ideal), which is often 3:1 in factory production cars other than replace the turbo, I said replace not add larger wheels. That middle step does help but for the price I am not so sure; If I can figure out an affordable cast manifold option the rest of it is easy, higher gains at all boost levels.

If the base boost is 18 psi, you want ideally 11-12 hp or more per pound from there. If max is 25-26 psi, then you see the problem I see with my dyno results.

The main gain from E85 is the oxygen added. It has more oxygen per pound than a gasoline period. You don't see it with the stock turbo on this car, the gains are good but not like a aftermarket turbo.

With a much bigger turbo the gains over pump gas are ridiculous.

The focus should be improving how much power you can make above the stock boost levels. When knock is eliminated as far as ignition advance goes, power from 4+ psi is 222 whp (Map 1).

You can gain more than that, but the focus needs to shift -

How cool can you get the air coming into the turbo, reduce turbo exit temps AND reduce intercooler exit temps.
 

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I like those a lot! But I do wish there was a foot rest cover too.. I started to ask for a link but I don’t think my brain could handle having that lonely silver one still there lol
If i did something like that, I probably would find a place that could anodize the stock one to match the other pedals, or just anodize the stock ones.
 

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Hello,

Anyone install mods that helped with having a smoother powerband? Also, does the pierburg wastegate and bov solenoid work on the 2019+ 1.6L?
The power band goes right up with RPM, the torque peaks at 2500 and holds until 4800-4900

That is stock, the JB4 minics the stock power band, peak power is sooner because boost tappers depending on which map you run, Map 5 has no tapper because it assumes you have E85, oxygenated race fuel (VP MS109) or E85 added to race fuel (Sunoco GT-260+)

The car runs better higher quality fuel, that is not what you find at the pump.

One of the funniest cars I have owned, it makes power right up to the rev limit, though you should still shift around 6500 rpm, assuming manual trans.

GFB BOV though a useless noise making mod is a direct bolt-on, it does require the solenoid to keep the PCM happy.

I am going to assume you don't know this because the car has a much better electronic wastegate so I am puzzled how you think the power delivery isn't smooth? The 1.6L will get EWG control at some point but the main reason it's not available is because this community still has training wheels on it.
 

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The power band goes right up with RPM, the torque peaks at 2500 and holds until 4800-4900

That is stock, the JB4 minics the stock power band, peak power is sooner because boost tappers depending on which map you run, Map 5 has no tapper because it assumes you have E85, oxygenated race fuel (VP MS109) or E85 added to race fuel (Sunoco GT-260+)

The car runs better higher quality fuel, that is not what you find at the pump.

One of the funniest cars I have owned, it makes power right up to the rev limit, though you should still shift around 6500 rpm, assuming manual trans.

GFB BOV though a useless noise making mod is a direct bolt-on, it does require the solenoid to keep the PCM happy.

I am going to assume you don't know this because the car has a much better electronic wastegate so I am puzzled how you think the power delivery isn't smooth? The 1.6L will get EWG control at some point but the main reason it's not available is because this community still has training wheels on it.
Well around 2k-3rpms half throttle the car almost seems jerky. I've read some reviews of people saying the sxth hot pipe and some other mods help with drivability and smooth power delivery.
 

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I'll give that a shot. Will the TCU tune help reduce bucking from a stop also? Its a love hate relationship with this DCT lol.
When I test drove the Forte GT for the first time it was a DCT.

Like the manual, if you try to low rpm launch on pump gas, the car wants to die. Now the DCT won't do that but that behavior you are describing sounds low throttle input cause the transmission to act funny.

I haven't spoken to anybody that has a DCT about this. But in my manual one of the main reasons I run a E blend tune all the time is because of that tendency to want to stall with low throttle input. The E blend gives me much higher part-throttle ignition advance which stops that in it's tracks, I can launch the car below 2k rpm and if I let the clutch out too fast which drops the RPM down it, won't stall.

Clowns on Facebook tried to say I didn't know how to drive a stick. Mind you I am 51 years old and the majority in those groups just started shaving regularly.

I would try a few gallons of E85 mixed with premium in your area to see if that helps some. You can run E20, the car is rated for E15, I run 30% and higher since the car had about 5,000 miles on it, it has 72,000 now.
 

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When I test drove the Forte GT for the first time it was a DCT.

Like the manual, if you try to low rpm launch on pump gas, the car wants to die. Now the DCT won't do that but that behavior you are describing sounds low throttle input cause the transmission to act funny.

I haven't spoken to anybody that has a DCT about this. But in my manual one of the main reasons I run a E blend tune all the time is because of that tendency to want to stall with low throttle input. The E blend gives me much higher part-throttle ignition advance which stops that in it's tracks, I can launch the car below 2k rpm and if I let the clutch out too fast which drops the RPM down it, won't stall.

Clowns on Facebook tried to say I didn't know how to drive a stick. Mind you I am 51 years old and the majority in those groups just started shaving regularly.

I would try a few gallons of E85 mixed with premium in your area to see if that helps some. You can run E20, the car is rated for E15, I run 30% and higher since the car had about 5,000 miles on it, it has 72,000 now.
Lol that was a good laugh. I'll try that next time I fill up. Usually filling up with 91 no ethanol. I'd like to know thoughts on parts that help out the car even if it doesn't make anymore
 

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Lol that was a good laugh. I'll try that next time I fill up. Usually filling up with 91 no ethanol. I'd like to know thoughts on parts that help out the car even if it doesn't make anymore
Nothing that I know of, the tune in it from the factory is more focused on fuel economy not performance.

Maybe a throttle tuner might help - BMS Pedal Tuner - Adjustable throttle response
 

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Nothing that I know of, the tune in it from the factory is more focused on fuel economy not performance.

Maybe a throttle tuner might help - BMS Pedal Tuner - Adjustable throttle response
I agree with this. I did a throttle tuner and it solved my not so smooth driving. I felt disconnected from the throttle input when rowing through gears. I'm so used to drive by cable, i can't break the habit of driving that way after driving manuals for a very long time. The delay in throttle opening is annoying. I noticed my passengers heads don't rock back and forth after installing a throttle tuner when i shift.

I also agree with you on those kids on the FB forum. After seeing how they are I just got myself out of that. They are so cookie cutter and petty. When proven wrong, they resort to name calling. I'm too old for that nonsense.
 

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I agree with this. I did a throttle tuner and it solved my not so smooth driving. I felt disconnected from the throttle input when rowing through gears. I'm so used to drive by cable, i can't break the habit of driving that way after driving manuals for a very long time. The delay in throttle opening is annoying. I noticed my passengers heads don't rock back and forth after installing a throttle tuner when i shift.

I also agree with you on those kids on the FB forum. After seeing how they are I just got myself out of that. They are so cookie cutter and petty. When proven wrong, they resort to name calling. I'm too old for that nonsense.
Would you believe they followed me to the JB4 Hyundai/Kia Facebook Group? Every time I post something about improving the WMI system on some of the Stingers on there or anything in general, Kyle, Jason Caton and some other nutcase ask "Where are the 251whp dyno sheets". Same reason I haven't posted them here, I don't have access to my Windows machine nor my server, nor the NAS.

Whatever, very soon I will jump on Burger Motorsport's brand new AWD Dynojet and optimize everything that is installed.

I will record everything and take pictures.

The pain is coming I just ordered my coil-overs.
 
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