Well thought out. I need a quickjack in my life.
Looks like a combination of car too low and incorrectly installed rear sway bar.After seeing a few issues with Whiteline rear sway bars and Whiteline endlinks breaking I decided I should stick with what I know - Eibach REAR ANTI-ROLL Kit (Rear Sway Bar Only) - HYUNDAI Elantra GT 1.6L Turbo Hatchback (eibach.com) I am going to go with the Eibach 22mm rear sway bar for that reason along with a couple others. I am not a fan of the stress the second set of mounting holes cause on adjustable bars and I do not like the clamps that have to be added to some to keep the sway bar centered. The Eibach design has the stops formed with the bar and is not adjustable. Here is a picture of a 22mm Whiteline bar that snapped on Veloster.
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Could be....but I'm sure the owner of this sway bar lowered his car excessively and cheap'd out on not getting adjustable endlinks. It looks like it was binding. That car must have been very bouncy and rough on the street. Had mine for 3 years. No problems.If you look at that swaybar the metal inside looks like sugar.. I think the heat treat went wrong.
Probably got it searching for the Elantra.Lift Kits, Lowering Springs, Race Springs, Shocks & Sway BarsWhere did you get the Eibach sway bar from?
The Eibach website SUCKS! I try to find the sway bar and all I get is springs:
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It's not too bad. Another way is to remove the air box, unplug the wire harnesses on the intercooler pipe, disconnect the recirculation pipe, loosen the clamps on the intercooler and throttle body and extract if you don't want to crawl underneath the car.Let me know how the BOV install goes. Got mine today. I’ve seen it’s kind of annoying as the best way to do it is from the bottom.