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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys,
Today I went to "audio clinic" in belleville, NJ not sure if anybodys been there but I talked to the guy and this was his rundown.
Just subs $500
Complete sound system (Subs/amps/speakers) $1000
Complete Sound System and new radio $150
Complete SOund system with new head radio with dvd/navi etc. $1800

What do you guys think of these prices?
In addition would somebody be able to give me a decent setup thats not too pricey? (Subs/amp/ and speakers)
THanks in advance!
Kenny
 

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you will need a LOC to let you plug the rca to one of your speakers the rear ones is a better choise+ u have to plug the remote wire to the lighter and put the positive on the batterie with a fuse to protect the system in case of disfonction+the ground that you can use every body bolt on the trunk is good too,, actually I did not have the time to put my sub in the car mabye im too laze or something but I want to solve the doors rattles problem during the boom times ! and I don't want to open the door finish at the moment lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got a price of 900 fully installed JL audio amp and sub speakers alphine
What do you guys think?
THanks,
KEnny

PS will this void my warranty and where can i buy those sweet K emblems besides ebay?
 

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An audio system will not void a warranty unless a power spike causes the ecu to fry which is next to impossible because of all the fuses that are installed.
What size are the subs? What is the rms rating? And what is the sensitivity on both subs and speakers?

When I did my install I ran 4ga front to back. 150A fuse 12" from the battery. I grounded to the drivers side rear seat bolt. I had to sand a little paint off the body just to ensure a good ground. I tied into BOTH rear speakers so as not to lose left/right sound differential. At the time I couldn't figure out how to tie in to the cigarette lighter discreetly so I have my remote line using one of the plugs and a power line from an old set of beat sense lights that didn't work any more. I plan on changing that soon.

I'm currently running an Orion HCCA 10" 2ohm DVC off an HCCA 2400W monobloc amp powered by the electronic system assisted by a Tsunami 5 farad capacitor. I realize that the Cap is kinda overkill but this sub KILLED my 93 cherokee's alternator and battery running off a 1 farad cap listening at low volume levels so yeah. A little overkill is better than your car being killed right.

I'm not a pro but I know enough to do it right.
Any questions just PM me.
 
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