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Plain and simple any need to change from 5-30w? how about synthetic for a turbo engine? Thanks leave your creative responses on the reply section below. -raywilliamjohnson <----- hilarious dude
 

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The car is speced for 5W-20 so that is what I would use especially for winter. And you're in Connecticut which is colder than where I am. But you're probably OK with 5W-30 if that's what you want.

If I were you I'd go with synthetic because of the turbo. The newest from Castrol (Edge) or Penzoil (Ultra) would be my choice. I've been using Castrol Syntec or Penzoil Platinum but the two oils I mentioned above are the next level up from Syntec and Platinum. All reports are that they are very fine oils. Synthetics really shine in extreme heat or cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If there was a rep option you will get a +1 thank you
 

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Crock

5w-20 may be to thin. A full syn 5w-30 would make CAFE but may have to much shearing. It may be a good question for TK.com, perhaps they did a UOA with their test mule.

A 0w-40 or 5w-40 full syn might be good. To prevent dry starts, dont forget to have an idle down of a minute or so...dry starts are killer on a turbo.
 

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Using Mazda as an example, after an epidemic of problems with their 2.3 DISI Turbo engine (Mazdaspeed 3 & Mazdaspeed 6), they've switched the problem engines over to synthetic 5W-40 to eliminate turbo smoking & cylinder #1 rod bearing failure. All other Mazdas are spec'd for 5W-20 except the turbo models, which were originally spec'd for 5W-30 but are now spec'd for 5W-40 (unofficially). For turbo engines, thicker is better on the hot end. Stay with 5W on the cold end.
 

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I'll defer to these guys above regarding oil weight, because they seem to know more about turbos than I do. I didn't realize that they needed thicker. As Corsa said, I would stick with the 5W for the low end and use a good synthetic as I mentioned earlier.
 

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This is correct, thicker can be better. We have seen mysterious oiling issue on turbo set ups using high end racing synthetics. It lubricates so well it blows right by the turbo rings. The best bet is to use factory spec non synthetic for the 1st oil change. That will allow the turbo rings (seal) to seat. Then factory spec regular or synthetic (Mobil 1 / Castrol) is fine. If you see smoke, try a thicker oil. We have been using factory spec, non synthetic in our test mule and the turbo is bone dry, no leaks!

Using Mazda as an example, after an epidemic of problems with their 2.3 DISI Turbo engine (Mazdaspeed 3 & Mazdaspeed 6), they've switched the problem engines over to synthetic 5W-40 to eliminate turbo smoking & cylinder #1 rod bearing failure. All other Mazdas are spec'd for 5W-20 except the turbo models, which were originally spec'd for 5W-30 but are now spec'd for 5W-40 (unofficially). For turbo engines, thicker is better on the hot end. Stay with 5W on the cold end.
 

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I am with Grip Hard. I have been running 0-40 Mobil-1 in my 2K1 Boosted (300HP) Miata for years. You can't go wrong with this oil. One thing to note--the newer VVT setups are pressure sensitive.

It's good to be back--I have been out launching Near Space Satellites for High School Students!

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One thing to note--the newer VVT setups are pressure sensitive.
As I said in post #6, I'll defer to you guys who know turbos and are suggesting 40 weight, but I've been wondering about the sensors in these variable timing motors running 40 weight when it's speced for 20-30 weight. I'm no expert, but I'd suggest 20 or 30 weight but in a full synthetic to handle the heat.

Please not that any place above where I said 20 or 30 weight, I am meaning 5W-20, 5W-30 or 5W-40. In colder climates 0W would be OK too.
 

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If you are turbo I would stay away from synthetic for a couple oil changes and go with a 5w-40. I used it in my turbo Suzuki SX4 and never had issues with the sensors, they will adjust, most electronics in cars are self calibrating these days. I would be afraid of blow by if you run anything under 30, and if you run 30 don't do synthetic. If you go 5w-40 then you will be okay to go synthetic it will have enough weight to it.
 

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I used mobile 1 syn after the engine break in oil. After 40k miles of abuse, i tore the engine down and put the old bearings next to the new ones. I couldn't see a difference. The used ones were a TAD bit shinier. I have used it for years now, love it. I use it in every car i own.
But to each their own. People have had their own experiences. I personally have used royal purple and found it wasn't worth the $.

And by abuse i mean 20-35 psi, drag racing. And General asshatery.
 

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2 Words: ROYAL PURPLE

which oil is right for you?

My buddy has a 500+WHP EVO. He uses Royal Purple. His car can run 101 Octane Fuel or higher (available in Ontario California, if you live nearby) and his car will reach that 500+ mark
The reason why your buddy is using Royal Purp is because it's used for rebuilt engines. Royal Purp provides little protection and I'm suprised that they even sell it on the the shelves. They even advertise "engine builders choose royal purple". Just watching-out for ya
 
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