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I did this last night and I can't get my CEL to go off! I even tried clearing it with my obdii and it keeps coming back


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Try putting the screw back in the original position and disconnect the battery and see if it goes away. Do you know what code you're throwing?
 

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Try putting the screw back in the original position and disconnect the battery and see if it goes away. Do you know what code you're throwing?
I can't remember what code it was but when I turned the car on this morning it went out so I'm all good And I can tell a world of difference in the responsiveness so I am a happy camper


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This worked wonders! I always had a problem with, mostly, with the shift from 1st to 2nd gear. It would bog down when I released the clutch in 2nd because I wasn't getting enough throttle response.

Well, this little mod took that right out! I just went for a test drive and everything was smoother than it was when I first bought the car. There was no rpm increase at idle (still about 750rpms), and this is with the module shifted the whole way forward.

Great tip, worked like a charm.
 

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I need a little extra clarification. I just want to be sure that I fully understand this. The issue I'm having is that I try so hard not to over rev the engine, but it feels like ALL the power (or what have you) is at the front of the pedal. In my civic and in my girlfriends RDX, the MORE I press the gas pedal, the MORE power I get. In my Forte, it feels like ALL the power is in the first 1/4 of the pedal. So if I press the pedal down more, it doesn't really go any faster. It doesn't bog down or anything either, it's just, I would love to have it spread evenly throughout the entire pedal.

So I suppose my question would be, is this what the throttle mod does? Does it balance the acceleration more throughout the entire pedal? Because if it does, I really need to get on this.
 

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I need a little extra clarification. I just want to be sure that I fully understand this. The issue I'm having is that I try so hard not to over rev the engine, but it feels like ALL the power (or what have you) is at the front of the pedal. In my civic and in my girlfriends RDX, the MORE I press the gas pedal, the MORE power I get. In my Forte, it feels like ALL the power is in the first 1/4 of the pedal. So if I press the pedal down more, it doesn't really go any faster. It doesn't bog down or anything either, it's just, I would love to have it spread evenly throughout the entire pedal.

So I suppose my question would be, is this what the throttle mod does? Does it balance the acceleration more throughout the entire pedal? Because if it does, I really need to get on this.
This helps take the dead spot out of the first few degrees of pedal push. If your stopped and at idle..as you start to push the pedal..it does nothing a moment then over compensates because you push it more due to no initial response.

I know what your talking about. My forte doesn't do it..but my hyundai accent did. I could get more power to say go up a hill by using just a bit of throttle rather than say half or more. I dont have a fix for that. But i would notice it getting more sensitive to that about tune up time. I also wonder if it has anything to do with a clogging cat..seemed to be a possible theory but i never got to that ..sold the car and bought this one. I know it also had nothing to do with timing belt stretch ..did it before and after i serviced it as well.
 

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This helps take the dead spot out of the first few degrees of pedal push. If your stopped and at idle..as you start to push the pedal..it does nothing a moment then over compensates because you push it more due to no initial response.

I know what your talking about. My forte doesn't do it..but my hyundai accent did. I could get more power to say go up a hill by using just a bit of throttle rather than say half or more. I dont have a fix for that. But i would notice it getting more sensitive to that about tune up time. I also wonder if it has anything to do with a clogging cat..seemed to be a possible theory but i never got to that ..sold the car and bought this one. I know it also had nothing to do with timing belt stretch ..did it before and after i serviced it as well.
Dang, that sucks. I test drove a Scion tC last year and it did the SAME thing. I guess that's just how these cars are made nowadays. I really wish there was a way to balance that out.. I do have a VERY small deadspot and I'm not entirely sure it would be worth messing with anything, but who knows.

So wish there was a fix for my problem..
 

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Dang, that sucks. I test drove a Scion tC last year and it did the SAME thing. I guess that's just how these cars are made nowadays. I really wish there was a way to balance that out.. I do have a VERY small deadspot and I'm not entirely sure it would be worth messing with anything, but who knows.

So wish there was a fix for my problem..
If your not stalling at stop and go..and getting a smooth shift in first to second id pass on it. It was a jerky ride the first few days in my car lol. Its like a different car almost now after this and c.d.v. removal. It just bugged me to much to leave alone. Made me feel like a newb. I have been driving a manual since i was a kid.
 

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Hey guys so I have a 2010 kia forte sx 6sp and I did this mod like 4 times adjusting back and forth until I decided screw ill just move it all the way towards the firewall and it took away the dead spot and my idle never changed it still idles at about 600 or 700 so ya worked good for me and so far I haven't had any CEL's or hiccups


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i have now done this on a 2.4 and a 2.0 leaving 2mm space and worked same.. no play at all.. when you step on it even a little it revs up
 

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For the books this mod applies to the 2014 as well. Just did the mod to my 2014 lx 6spd and it makes a world of difference!!! Shifting was very jerky before due to the dead spot but now its real smooth and take offs are alot quicker thanks to this smoothing out. However the screws on the 2014 are on the opposite side so just mirror the procedure and it works all the same.
 

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I saw the reference to this mod in the November newsletter. I made the change using the multimeter approach described by Tmccorkel in 2010; this was right after I bought the car used in 2012. Mine is a 2010 SK w/6 spd. I got the voltage to around .92-5 up from .78. The car was virtually impossible to live with before this. The change made the shift into first and then into second much easier. Going into 2d now is pretty much normal based on my experience with multiple manual cars over the years including an '84 GTI and Mustang GT. However, first gear is still tricky - it just is not smooth and the car easily bucks - and I usually short shift to get the car moving and then go to 2d. IMHO abandoning cable throttles was a criminal move.

Anyway, just for comment, my regular mechanic (highly experienced on all types of domestic and foreign cars and very reputable) told me the fix for this should really be a remap by the dealer. I would never take any car to the dealer for service unless it was warranty work, as I prefer independents with good reviews.

Has anyone addressed this with Kia as a TSB or warranty issue since 2010? What result? And are tuners keeping the TPS or do they possibly replace it with a fabricated cable system that works better? Just curious - I love the car except for this annoying problem and I really hope Kia eliminates it on their new models.
 

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I saw the reference to this mod in the November newsletter. I made the change using the multimeter approach described by Tmccorkel in 2010; this was right after I bought the car used in 2012. Mine is a 2010 SK w/6 spd. I got the voltage to around .92-5 up from .78. The car was virtually impossible to live with before this. The change made the shift into first and then into second much easier. Going into 2d now is pretty much normal based on my experience with multiple manual cars over the years including an '84 GTI and Mustang GT. However, first gear is still tricky - it just is not smooth and the car easily bucks - and I usually short shift to get the car moving and then go to 2d. IMHO abandoning cable throttles was a criminal move.

Anyway, just for comment, my regular mechanic (highly experienced on all types of domestic and foreign cars and very reputable) told me the fix for this should really be a remap by the dealer. I would never take any car to the dealer for service unless it was warranty work, as I prefer independents with good reviews.

Has anyone addressed this with Kia as a TSB or warranty issue since 2010? What result? And are tuners keeping the TPS or do they possibly replace it with a fabricated cable system that works better? Just curious - I love the car except for this annoying problem and I really hope Kia eliminates it on their new models.
Combine this mod with the c.d.v. delete and its gets a bit better. Still not 100% perfect but best possible.
 

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Wow, OK - checked the thread on removing the cdv for the 2.4; looks like a rough job. So much for a reflash. This is probably why manuals are going extinct, they are making them miserable to use - in the name of making them easier.

I saw a youtube video on removing the cdv from the 2.0, looks easier to do.
 

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Ahhh. Yeah 2.4 is a lil more p.i.t.a. but was accomplished without removal of trans by someone. When i have more time i will report the method back to ya or tag you in the post tonight.
 

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Chalk me up as another satisfied customer! :Excited:

When I got the car Friday, I had a 220 mile drive to get home. When I wasn't on the interstate, the car was downright scary! Stalling and surging and bucking... Oh my goodness! I had read that it was bad, but nothing can prepare you for actually experiencing it! :shocked:

I did a "blind" adjustment yesterday (turned out to be .82v) and it was improved, but I still bucked and stalled a few times. Today I hit it up with the old Fluke, and got it at .96, and I couldn't be happier with the takeoff now.
 

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Does this help 2013 sx's? Mine a fairly sensitive but I've gotten used to it for the most part. Throttle seems to depend on a few factors which makes it hard to predict.
 

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Does this help 2013 sx's? Mine a fairly sensitive but I've gotten used to it for the most part. Throttle seems to depend on a few factors which makes it hard to predict.
Worked perfectly on my 2013 SX.
 

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Thank you newsletter! I can't stand how useless 1st gear is how bucky and choppy it is. So is it necessary to do both the pedal mod and the tps? Is the dealer going to look at me like wtf when I ask them about this?
 

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Thank you newsletter! I can't stand how useless 1st gear is how bucky and choppy it is. So is it necessary to do both the pedal mod and the tps? Is the dealer going to look at me like wtf when I ask them about this?
Aren't they both the same thing? I think people just have different names for the mod. It still involves the "black box" your gas pedal is attached to.
 
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