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Hey guys, I sort of feel a dead spot but my peddle is very touchy to begin with. I was going to consider this mod but I have a 2010 koup and it an auto. I feel this mod is applying to manuals only?
 

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Should I attempt this on a 2013 Forte Sedan 2.0 Automatic? AFTER reading all 27 pages here I am so stoked to try it! Thanks in advance
 

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Go for it. If you don't like the results can always put it back. Really it only takes 10mins
 

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my car is a 14 ex automatic. I wasnt expecting much from the mod, but I wanted to try anyways. Looking down by my pedal I see the setup is different from the older models. I ended up finding a write up on how to do this same mod on a 13 Elantra in a Hyundai forum. The guy actualy referenced this forum and someone else who did it on an Accent as well. Apparently the way the sensor and pedal is setup on the 14 Forte is the exact same as the 13 Elantra and Accent. His pics verify this. And definately different from 1st gen Fortes. Anyways I made and adjustment slightly forward. It did seem so make a slight difference. Feels like I barely have to put weight on the gas pedal to get a response. Did not affect my rpm at all. Actually think I could have adjusted a little more. But it really was a pain in the ass to get that assembly off and back on. Not sure if im going to play with it anymore. Pretty cool little adjustment though. And it most definatly can still be done on the 2nd gen Fortes.
 

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So I just looked at this and after trying to contort myself to access this part of the pedal, I am wondering how you guys did it.



Seems like it must be detached first before adjusting. I thought about just loosening the 5 screws without detaching, but the steering wheel shaft is fighting with the screwdriver. Plus, there's no space down there for me to see what I'm doing.
 

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So I just looked at this and after trying to contort myself to access this part of the pedal, I am wondering how you guys did it.



Seems like it must be detached first before adjusting. I thought about just loosening the 5 screws without detaching, but the steering wheel shaft is fighting with the screwdriver. Plus, there's no space down there for me to see what I'm doing.
I'd remove it. It's a LOT easier that way...
 

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How do you detach the right-side screws that hold the entire assembly? There isn't enough space to maneuver any tool there as the area is so narrow and these are nuts, not a bolt as on the left.

I found this video (which might have been posted before, sorry) where the poster did everything without detaching the assembly. I tried that and was able to loosen all 4 screws except for the "set" screw. Seems like no matter which size of Phillips screwdriver that I used, the screw wouldn't loosen. Fearing that it was stripped, I tried the old rubber band trick but that didn't work.

Any other tips from those who have done this already? Thanks in advance.
 

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I recently picked up a 2010 Kia Forte Koup SX and i noticed the dead spot immediately...I tried getting a reading with a multimeter, but to no avail It wasn't reading correctly. After a few days of suffering with the rolling dead spot and jumping the car or stalling it, I decided to loosen the 5 screws and slide the plate to the firewall and then back about 1/8". I screw it back in, started it up and instantly felt a difference. Now it drives like a normal manual trans. It's hard to tell it's drive by wire once you do this fix! So far best and easiest mod ever. I also just recently purchase a carbon fiber muffler. Can't wait to get that baby in! Never thought i'd be driving a Kia honestly, but when i test drove this car I was like.. yeah i can do this ... :)
 

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Nice to know about it.Its very interesting and also very helpful for the mechanics and car lovers like me.I have my own workshop of my Dad but they late.so i managed it.I read this thread and its very helpful in my work.I think the best Throttle mod ever is New product - DBW Throttle Delay Eliminator.
 

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Hi guys,

Just did this mod on my '10 Koup. All it is is a cover which presses two sets of contacts together for the DBW. Initially I did it with everything off, setting it to the most forward position. I started the car after and as soon as the engine caught it started revving like a bat out of hell, so I shut it down. Then I moved it back all of the way and started it, and it sputtered and almost stalled when it started. Then realized it was almost like setting the idle screw on a carb. So I started it back up and actually set the position with the engine running, gently pushing on the pedal until I could just touch it and make it rev, removing the dead spot COMPLETELY. Everyone who says you'll always have a dead spot in DBW needs to do it this way. The only downside to doing it with the car running is if you lose your grip on the plate, nothing necessarily bad will happen (it will just idle with no response to accelerator input) but it will throw a code for the DBW system. So you'll just have to do what I'm doing as I type this and disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Actually, now that I think of it, it's probably good to disconnect it anyway?Koups as we all know have learnable ECUs, so it will relearn your driving style with the new throttle adjustment which will definitely make a difference as opposed to not disconnecting the battery.
 
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^^^^^^^^^ Just did the mod on my 2010 Koup sx manual, works great. I did the same thing as the guy above me, adjust it with your engine ON. Makes it waaaaay easier to get it in the perfect spot without raising the rpms!!
 

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Took 5 minutes, with pics

Just finished. Can't wait to drive it. '10 SX 6spd. I couldn't stand taking off from a stop. Also unplugged the clutch cruise switch. Someone mentioned that the ECM may pull power/timing when the clutch is pushed in. I think I have felt it before. We'll see!
 

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:crying2:
Just finished. Can't wait to drive it. '10 SX 6spd. I couldn't stand taking off from a stop. Also unplugged the clutch cruise switch. Someone mentioned that the ECM may pull power/timing when the clutch is pushed in. I think I have felt it before. We'll see!
You'll definitely enjoy a properly adjusted throttle pedal, and please do post whether or not unplugging that one clutch connector did something or not.

Also, I can't help but say, you have a very good taste in multimeters. Here's a pic from when I did my throttle mod:
 
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I just attempted this with my 2014 Forte5 Ex. As stated earlier, the 2nd gen is completely different than the first gen.

I wanted to get a reading with my multimeter so I could quantitatively verify the change, however the connector on the 2nd gen is also different. I probed every wire with both ignition on and engine running, and I could not find a signal that was in the 1.0v range. Two were in the 3.75v to 4.75v range, and the others all hovered around 0.

So I gave up on the reading and just made a slight adjustment. After getting everything back together, I started the car, the idle speed was just above 1000 rpm, and the check engine light was on. Well, shit.

I shut it down, removed the assembly again (it has to be removed on the 2nd gen since the 4 (not 5) screws are on the right side of the pedal assembly with no room to the right of the pedal of course), adjusted it back slightly, reassembled.... started it up, idle still around 1000 rpm and still a check engine light. Well, shit.

I did the entire procedure a 3rd time, and finally the idle was back to normal and no check engine light.

So if you have a 2nd gen Forte, be warned that this procedure is not the same as the 1st gen and may cause idle and ecu issues if not adjusted within a certain range.
 
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