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fisher363

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys, nice to meet everyone. First post here.


Doing the clutch job in a week on my 2012 Kia Forte Koup EX and I am going over the notes. Came away with one question so far, is dropping the sub frame mandatory on these cars?
 
To access the clutch and tranny, yes. According to the F S M, it has you remove the transaxle assembly. And in order to remove the transaxle, it has you remove the sub frame.



Looks like fun! I'll be getting in to that stuff this weekend! I'm removing the engine along with the trans.


(I shelled out the $14 for the F S M and it's been my bible by my side for the past two days. I love this how-to knowledge. Great stuff!)
 
For future reference, it is not mandatory. Remove the left control arm and that gives you enough space to change the clutch. It is a tight fit leaving the trans in the car but I am sure it is faster than dropping the subframe.


okay, that's excellent info. how was the clearance? was it difficult to change with such tight tolerances?

also, i just pulled the engine/transaxle this past weekend. updates coming soon.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
okay, that's excellent info. how was the clearance? was it difficult to change with such tight tolerances?

also, i just pulled the engine/transaxle this past weekend. updates coming soon.
On the horrible scale of 1-10, I would say a 6 or 7. Make sure you have help to load the flywheel and a torque wrench with a narrow head. I honestly cannot believe the engineers did not modify the subframe for dropping the transmission. It is awfully close but brake lines run right in that area so I couldn't get too rough. On a side note: You wouldn't happen to have seen how to correctly set the shifter cables? My gears are not correct.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
On the horrible scale of 1-10, I would say a 6 or 7. Make sure you have help to load the flywheel and a torque wrench with a narrow head. I honestly cannot believe the engineers did not modify the subframe for dropping the transmission. It is awfully close but brake lines run right in that area so I couldn't get too rough. On a side note: You wouldn't happen to have seen how to correctly set the shifter cables? My gears are not correct.
To answer my own question. Yes, it is possible to put the shifter cables on incorrectly. Had to set the knob to neutral and then went through the gears on the transmission to find neutral. Neutral being when I could roll the car back and forth.
 
To answer my own question. Yes, it is possible to put the shifter cables on incorrectly. Had to set the knob to neutral and then went through the gears on the transmission to find neutral. Neutral being when I could roll the car back and forth.
Can you start off with the car in neutral, and just pull the cables? Or do you have to jack with the linkage, moving it out of neutral, when working on it?
 
And for the record, I'm not impressed with the look of the shifter parts. I had to pull the console awhile back, to adjust the parking brake. Looks like most of the shifter parts are nylon. Doesn't look like a recipe for durability, especially if you bought one of these and wanted to autocross it, or use it as a trackday car.
 
To access the clutch and tranny, yes. According to the F S M, it has you remove the transaxle assembly. And in order to remove the transaxle, it has you remove the sub frame.



Looks like fun! I'll be getting in to that stuff this weekend! I'm removing the engine along with the trans.


(I shelled out the $14 for the F S M and it's been my bible by my side for the past two days. I love this how-to knowledge. Great stuff!)
Where did you find an F S M for $14? Linky please?
 
I just bought a 2011 forte koup sx (6 spd. manual) about a month ago. And just two days ago the clutch pedal went to the floor and would not come back up!! And when I got it home, when the car is on it won't go into gears but when it is off it will glide into every gear!! I am female with no money really. I'm just wanting to know how I can tell if it's just the fluid, cables,hydraulic, clutch plate, or what?
I was told to turn the car on in 1st gear without pushing in the clutch and if it jumps then it's not the plate. Can anybody tell me if that's correct. Thanks. Trying to learn something,!!
 
If the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor & doesn't come back/spring back up, then it's fluid leak. Also, if there's a puddle underneath the transmission then it's definitely the eccentric slave cylinder. The rubber accordion has a leak therefore unable to change gears safety.

If there's no fluid puddle underneath then it's something elsewhere transmission & yes, the subframe, the steering rack, CV axles have to be removed in order to get access to transmission & transmission has to be removed/dropped to get into the transmission bell housing to allow repairs.

I have a post on my 1st gen Koup transmission clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder transmission repair. No I didn't diy. My wife paid for it to get repaired due to I don't have automotive shop tools.
 
Whenever you're gonna fix, repair, install, remove, uninstall, diy, modify, upgrade, even do simple maintenance & or went looking for trouble & found it, post pics. It will help out the Forteforums community
 
I just bought a 2011 forte koup sx (6 spd. manual) about a month ago. And just two days ago the clutch pedal went to the floor and would not come back up!! And when I got it home, when the car is on it won't go into gears but when it is off it will glide into every gear!! I am female with no money really. I'm just wanting to know how I can tell if it's just the fluid, cables,hydraulic, clutch plate, or what?
I was told to turn the car on in 1st gear without pushing in the clutch and if it jumps then it's not the plate. Can anybody tell me if that's correct. Thanks. Trying to learn something,!!
Yes that one way, don't freak out when it jumps forward. Make sure when it's done that the vehicle is on a flat surface & NOT on an incline or decline.
 
Yes that one way, don't freak out when it jumps forward. Make sure when it's done that the vehicle is on a flat surface & NOT on an incline or decline.
Okay, thank you! I wasn't sure if anybody was going to respond because I thought these were old post. I haven't done it yet but, was going to tomorrow morning. So did I get that right if it does jump then it's not the clutch plate or whatever it is? And no, didn't see any leaks under car! I'm am so lost on this I'm not even sure what I'm even actually talking about! But my break fluid was like half empty. Would that have anything to do with it? I think it might because it was not a lot but it put a little tiny bit of pressure back in the pedal. ??? THANKS AGAIN!
 
If the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor & doesn't come back/spring back up, then it's fluid leak. Also, if there's a puddle underneath the transmission then it's definitely the eccentric slave cylinder. The rubber accordion has a leak therefore unable to change gears safety.

If there's no fluid puddle underneath then it's something elsewhere transmission & yes, the subframe, the steering rack, CV axles have to be removed in order to get access to transmission & transmission has to be removed/dropped to get into the transmission bell housing to allow repairs.

I have a post on my 1st gen Koup transmission clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder transmission repair. No I didn't diy. My wife paid for it to get repaired due to I don't have automotive shop tools.
Okay, please don't think I am stupid. Although I worked at a auto part store when I was 19, (35 yrs ago) I know nothing about cars.( So if it is stupid "?" please forgive me ) BUT, is the eccentric slave cylinder, the thing that holds the trans oil? And if the "accordion" has a leak and unable to shift? Could that possibly mean that alone, could be the whole problem?? Maybe? wishful thinking. And maybe stupid ?;but could it not be lifted and gotten to from underneath? I'm sorry for bothering I think I might to Google it. But I appreciate the response.
But one more thing my low beam passenger side headlight won't work either. Changed bulb and checked fuses but still can't get it to work. Drive at night with high beams on so hopefully no ",copstop" for light being out.
THANKS... GNight....
 
Okay, thank you! I wasn't sure if anybody was going to respond because I thought these were old post. I haven't done it yet but, was going to tomorrow morning. So did I get that right if it does jump then it's not the clutch plate or whatever it is? And no, didn't see any leaks under car! I'm am so lost on this I'm not even sure what I'm even actually talking about! But my break fluid was like half empty. Would that have anything to do with it? I think it might because it was not a lot but it put a little tiny bit of pressure back in the pedal. ??? THANKS AGAIN!
Yes, if any standard/manual transmission vehicles jumps/launches forward without the clutch pedal being stepped on/pressed, it's not the clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder. It's something else that's connected to the clutch pedal that's not pushing the pedal forward/ back to normal & not allowing transmission to safely shift gears when engine is on.
Don't shift into gear from neutral when the engine is on, you will grind gears & cause more damages to transmission

In 1st gen standard/manual Fortes sedans & Koups, the clutch pedal uses the hydraulic brake fluid. Yes, the clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder & the power brakes use the same fluid. They also have & use clutch pedal safety switch to start the vehicle.

If your brake fluid/brake fluid reservoir is constantly low/needs to be filled, there's a leak/air somewhere at the braking system or at the clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder.

Check your brake system at the
▪︎Master brake cylinder, brake fluid reservoir,
▪︎Master brake booster
▪︎HCU (Hydraulic Control Unit/Electronic Hydraulic Brake module)
▪︎Brake lines (metal & rubber hoses/banjo bolts)
▪︎Brake calipers & at the rims/wheels.
Where ever the brake fluid is leaking at or air going in you should see fluid leaks.

Since you say you there's no leaks, then it's something else in the transmission that's causing the clutch pedal/eccentric slave cylinder to malfunction.
 
The transmission fluid (Gear oil) in standard/manual is completely different & kept separated from clutch pedal fluid/Hydraulic brake fluid in these cars.

1st gen Kia Forte Kous & sedans 2.0L & 2.4L (2010 thru 2013) standard/manual Fortes use transmission gear fluid/oil is 75W85 as stated in vehicle owners manual.

OEM/Factory manual transmission gear fluid/oil
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If your local Kia/Hyundai dealership uses/sells manual transmission gear fluid/oil
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