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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Recently my 2014 Forte5 SX started turning off when coming to a stop or even leaving it in park for a length of time. After it turns off, restarting it takes a few tries and when it starts, the tachometer stays at 0 and the traction control light goes on but I can drive it although throttle response and shifts are weird.

Eventually it generated a P0335 error (Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit). Originally replaced it with a wrong sensor (Amazon said it was compatible with my car but it thought my car was a 2.0L). Even with that sensor it stopped turning off but wasn't shifting properly. Sourced the proper sensor (3x more expensive!) and had the dealer install it and the turning off never came back but it still doesn't drive quite right. Mostly doesn't downshift aggressively enough and seems to let the RPMs get lower than it used to. Almost like it's stuck in ECO mode

Dealer finds nothing wrong and thinks it shifts and drives just fine.

Anyone encountered issues with this? I'm tempted to buy an ECU Reflash since the dealer won't do it just to see if that resolves it.

Can anyone recommend an ECU tune? I figure an OBD Plug (performance chip tuning) that fools the ECU probably won't work to resolve this issue for me
 

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2016 Kia Forte LX 1.8
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I have the same problem it seems. I replaced the head cylinder and timing chain assembly a few months ago. Today I noticed my traction light came on randomly. It went away when I restarted the car but back on with bit driving. Shortly after the tachometer would drop to zero with acceleration and then go back up and down randomly. Tach is normal at idle. No stalling. No check engine light until I got it home and turned it on and off a few times. Crankshaft sensor code came up. Had been replaced during timing job. Check wires and everything looks fine. Replaced sensor and no luck. Engine light is still on but the code doesn't come up. Seems like the traction light comes on once the rpms drop to zero.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I haven't found anything yet and it looks like I"m going to have to learn more about how automatic transmissions work to narrow down the problem. Shifting while engine is cold is still rough for me.

But no traction light/RPMs going to 0 happened to me anymore once I swapped out the sensor.

So our issues might be related and if I find out what it is I'll update here and likewise I say you do the same, maybe its the same culprit but different issues so slightly different symptoms.

Good luck to you
 

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I too have a 2010 kia forte 2.0 engine of which I have the following off and on again problem. When starting out from a light, sometimes when I press on the accelerator to proceed, there is nothing there, it does not go. When I pump the accelerator a second or third time, then it lunges ahead to which I have to back off the accelerator and resume normal speed. This does not happen all the time. Sometimes the car is real responsive in taking off, other times it is just normal. I have replaced the accelerator pedal sending unit and the throttle body. Any thoughts any one?
 

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I haven't found anything yet and it looks like I"m going to have to learn more about how automatic transmissions work to narrow down the problem. Shifting while engine is cold is still rough for me.

But no traction light/RPMs going to 0 happened to me anymore once I swapped out the sensor.

So our issues might be related and if I find out what it is I'll update here and likewise I say you do the same, maybe its the same culprit but different issues so slightly different symptoms.

Good luck to you
Did you find any info on this problem?? I'm going to try fuel additive. I read that works!
 

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I too have a 2010 kia forte 2.0 engine of which I have the following off and on again problem. When starting out from a light, sometimes when I press on the accelerator to proceed, there is nothing there, it does not go. When I pump the accelerator a second or third time, then it lunges ahead to which I have to back off the accelerator and resume normal speed. This does not happen all the time. Sometimes the car is real responsive in taking off, other times it is just normal. I have replaced the accelerator pedal sending unit and the throttle body. Any thoughts any one?
Have you checked for trouble codes?
 

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Did you find any info on this problem?? I'm going to try fuel additive. I read that works!
Did you find any info on this problem?? I'm going to try fuel additive. I read that works!
Still same problems!! sesh!!! I got the codes P0335 and P0336 (Camshaft Sensor and Crankshaft Sensor) $90 bucks ea at auto store / $40 & $50 for OEM on Amazon!
 

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A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:
Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt Failed PCM

Potential causes of a P0336 code include:
Bad crank sensor
Broken reluctor ring (missing teeth, debris lodged in ring)
Reluctor ring dislodged/stripped from it's stationary location
Wiring harness chafing causing short
Wiring open in CKP circuit

Copied from:
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (obd-codes.com)
 

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A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:
Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt Failed PCM

Potential causes of a P0336 code include:
Bad crank sensor
Broken reluctor ring (missing teeth, debris lodged in ring)
Reluctor ring dislodged/stripped from it's stationary location
Wiring harness chafing causing short
Wiring open in CKP circuit

Copied from:
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (obd-codes.com)
What does CKP Mean? (Crank Position Sensor?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did you find any info on this problem?? I'm going to try fuel additive. I read that works!
Never found the problem. Car still shifts strange sometimes but no further error codes have been generated.

Fuel additive won't work for GDI engines though if you were planning on using it for cleaning intake valves
 

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A P0335 "check engine light" code could be caused by:
Damaged CKP sensor connector
Damaged reluctor ring (missing teeth or not turning due to sheared-off keyway)
Sensor output open
Sensor output shorted to ground
Sensor output shorted to voltage
Failed crank sensor
Broken timing belt Failed PCM

Potential causes of a P0336 code include:
Bad crank sensor
Broken reluctor ring (missing teeth, debris lodged in ring)
Reluctor ring dislodged/stripped from it's stationary location
Wiring harness chafing causing short
Wiring open in CKP circuit

Copied from:
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (obd-codes.com)
These codes suck!! Nothing seems to work. I'm gonna change both Cam Sensors and Crank Sensor and check my brake stop pad (I read it breaks off easy and causes traction light and brake lights to continually light).
 

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These codes suck!! Nothing seems to work. I'm gonna change both Cam Sensors and Crank Sensor and check my brake stop pad (I read it breaks off easy and causes traction light and brake lights to continually light).
They do break! It's a piece of hard rubber, dries out, and breaks apart. When that happens the break switch is out of adjustment.
 

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I don’t mean to “hijack” anyone’s post or anything, but this felt like the best place to ask this. I just bought a 2010 Forte Ex from a friend who was moving out of state. It won’t start. The only code it’s throwing is the P0335 crankshaft position sensor code. Before I bought it, they replaced the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor and a slew of other sensors(all the old ones came with car). I read a few post on this forum and decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor pigtail. Still won’t start, still throwing the same code. I noticed that I never hear the fuel pump turn on when I’m trying to start it, so I took out the back seat and tested it and it works. Checked/tested every fuse in the car and they’re all good. What should I check next? I greatly appreciate any and all help. At this point I’m really scratching my head…..
 

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I don’t mean to “hijack” anyone’s post or anything, but this felt like the best place to ask this. I just bought a 2010 Forte Ex from a friend who was moving out of state. It won’t start. The only code it’s throwing is the P0335 crankshaft position sensor code. Before I bought it, they replaced the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor and a slew of other sensors(all the old ones came with car). I read a few post on this forum and decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor pigtail. Still won’t start, still throwing the same code. I noticed that I never hear the fuel pump turn on when I’m trying to start it, so I took out the back seat and tested it and it works. Checked/tested every fuse in the car and they’re all good. What should I check next? I greatly appreciate any and all help. At this point I’m really scratching my head…..
OBDII is great in providing codes to tell you what is wrong. The only problem is that if the engine wont start and there is something else bad, that is keeping the engine from starting, the parameters won't be met/set to identify the potential other problem. It might show up as a potential fault and you would need a scanner that can read those.

At this point it would be best to take it to someone who has the ability to thoroughly diagnose your engine's electrical system.

If you are clearing the P0335 code and then try to start it and get the P0335 code again then the crankshaft position sensor signal is not getting to the PCM.

P0335 DTC is set once the powertrain control module (PCM) fails to detect proper sensor operation from the crankshaft position sensor.

P0335 KIA Possible Causes

  • Faulty crankshaft position sensor
  • Crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
  • Signal plate may be damage
  • Starter motor may be faulty
  • Starting system circuit
  • Dead or weak battery
As far as your fuel pump - you should hear it run for 2-3 seconds when you turn the key to on, especially if it has been sitting for a while.
 

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OBDII is great in providing codes to tell you what is wrong. The only problem is that if the engine wont start and there is something else bad, that is keeping the engine from starting, the parameters won't be met/set to identify the potential other problem. It might show up as a potential fault and you would need a scanner that can read those.

At this point it would be best to take it to someone who has the ability to thoroughly diagnose your engine's electrical system.

If you are clearing the P0335 code and then try to start it and get the P0335 code again then the crankshaft position sensor signal is not getting to the PCM.

P0335 DTC is set once the powertrain control module (PCM) fails to detect proper sensor operation from the crankshaft position sensor.

P0335 KIA Possible Causes
  • Faulty crankshaft position sensor
  • Crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • Crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection
  • Signal plate may be damage
  • Starter motor may be faulty
  • Starting system circuit
  • Dead or weak battery
As far as your fuel pump - you should hear it run for 2-3 seconds when you turn the key to on, especially if it has been sitting for a while.
Thank you for the reply! That’s extremely helpful. I’ve cleared the code several times. Even did the other route of unhooking the negative battery terminal for an hour. Even though it’s almost midnight here(I work nights and just happen to be off work for 2 weeks) I’m gonna go out and try a few things out on it now. Definitely will pay close attention to see if I hear the fuel pump. Any idea how to test the circuit to make sure the wiring is ok?

From what I was told, my friend bought the car in its present condition. The lady he bought it from told him that she simply went out to start it one morning and it wouldn’t start. No other signs or warning of anything being wrong.

Im going to try and exhaust every other option before I finally give in and take it somewhere. I greatly appreciate your help
 

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Thank you for the reply! That’s extremely helpful. I’ve cleared the code several times. Even did the other route of unhooking the negative battery terminal for an hour. Even though it’s almost midnight here(I work nights and just happen to be off work for 2 weeks) I’m gonna go out and try a few things out on it now. Definitely will pay close attention to see if I hear the fuel pump. Any idea how to test the circuit to make sure the wiring is ok?

From what I was told, my friend bought the car in its present condition. The lady he bought it from told him that she simply went out to start it one morning and it wouldn’t start. No other signs or warning of anything being wrong.

Im going to try and exhaust every other option before I finally give in and take it somewhere. I greatly appreciate your help
GOOD LUCK...Been there...done that !!!

BTW the last time an engine did that to me it was a timing chain...just finished a 1500 mile round trip and the very next day the engine wouldn't start. I spent 4 days going over the ignition system and fuel system, and checking compression, before I realized the timing chain had jumped! I was too absorbed with the OBDII readings...when it was just a plain old mechanical problem.
 

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If you're buying sensors at autozone, advance or o'reilly/carquest, that COULD be the problem. Aftermarket sensors suck. It's best to buy a genuine sensor from your local KIA dealer. I worked at 2 of the 3 parts stores mentioned and that's why I WON'T purchase sensors or electrical parts at a chain store. Cheap crap that is often defective out of the box. Do yourself a favor and get your sensors from a KIA dealership or buy them online from a KIA supplier.
 
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