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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So i wanted a custom sub and the use of my cargo area... Was going to do an IB, then a simple enclosure with the amp off to the side...

And then...I figured, I could keep it all. The spare, tools, compartments to the sides. Why not?
  • Kicker Solo Classic 10 [email protected] 4 ohms
  • Kicker ZX700.5
  • Polk MM6501's in the front
  • Polk Coax's in the rear
  • AudioControl LCQ-1

Started by cutting out some cardboard to get an idea of the area I was working with.




Checking to see just how much space .67 cubic feet occupies



hmmm...A sub AND amp would fit here


Still enough volume? (yes, ~1 cubic foot!)


If I could hinge this sucker...I could keep the spare tire too...


Yep, hinge works




And the sub clears too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I put down a layer or 4 (hey, there were only 1690 miles on the odometer...) of blue painters tape

First layer of woven glass sheets were laid over the support frame resting on top of the spare tire.
I also added some spacers under the tire to simulate the space that the outer FG work would take up.






Once cured and additional layers added...I had this




Out of the car and getting some of the rest of the enclosure built up




~ .88 cubic feet of space and All sealed up...sort of. Gotta put some holes in it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Test fit! And it fits! Whew...

Here it is inserted and getting a test of things to come.
I left clearance for the max excursion of the sub for this part. Something to keep in mind.



Wire runs...these were run as close to the hinged area as possible. Keeps the loops short and neat.
The voids were sealed with expanding foam. This also got the final volume to about .65 cubic feet. A tad small!
DO NOT USE EXPIRED GREAT STUFF!! It sucks and does not expand...:mad:




Uh..I hate doing fiberglass work. I hate installing sound deadener more.
(FATMAT ultra mat. ~100 sf for the entire car. including some headliner work)



Don't worry, this spaghetti mess is going to be put away.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
And we're done. For now.

Here she is in that sexy black dress...
This is how it is run when the cargo area is empty and I want to pound out some serious low notes.


Added two 120mm fans under the amp rack riser


Here's what it looks like in "cargo mode"
Seeing as how I almost always carry SOMETHING...I just dial out some bass and there're no problems. Still sounds GREAT...


 

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SWEET! Great job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)

This combo does hit pretty hard. No rattle trap noise outside of the car if windows are cracked. Rear view does become useless and you do feel the bass in your hair...LOL

Final thoughts...
I still want to do the following:
Prop rod and hood lift to help hold it up
Equalizer

The OEM door speakers were cut out from their suspension inward. This left the original speaker enclosure riveted in place. These act as a good mount for 6.5/6.75" speakers. Doors were completely sealed, speaker mounting seams included.

The main power line runs through a weather grommet used for electrical work. It required drilling a hole in the firewall close to where most people recommend using the factory rubber sealed opening. I wanted to hide mine a little better than that. The grommet is a three piece deal designed to seal out the elements. I got it at Lowes in the electrical department.

Wrap and bundle your runs that go along the doors. Just do it. It's worth while and will protect your wiring from vibration related wear through.

Amp is turned on via a 12V switched circuit (Cigarette lighter) and one of these. You don't need much to feed the relay, I went with a 5 amp fuse because it was handy. But be sure to change the original fuse to a lower value that will keep the total of the two fuses to the same or lower than the single fuse you found there. In my case, it started out as a 15 amp circuit. I split it and used a 5 and 10 amp fuse. This will keep you from overloading the circuit on accident.

The switched circuit feeds the signal for a 12V relay that in turn, feeds the amp and future equalizer.

Used 4 gauge ground and power. Sanded paint off a bolt hole, crimped a ring on the ground and tested for resistance (.2 ohms, good enough). With ZERO noise when in operation.

Thank you for reading!

Comments are welcome.
 

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that awesome custom work... if you had time and patience, i'd say make a few and sell them on there... they'd be gone quite fast.
 

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Nice, it looks really good. I like you can hide it to put things in the trunk.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that awesome custom work... if you had time and patience, i'd say make a few and sell them on there... they'd be gone quite fast.
I actually thought about making a drop in style (it would not be hard). Filling orders would be a challenge as I am pretty busy as it is.

The space is so vast a pair of 12" subs would fit with no spare. Or you could build small sealed enclosure and make a custom trim panel to fill the space.

The main driver is I wanted my daughter to take this car and still have a spare. She's gonna have a nice little setup for a high school kid..LOL

Thanks for the compliments everyone.
 

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Damn good dude. If I wasn't into all the flashy stuff for my system I'd definitely go with something almost exactly like this since it's so clean and bad ass at the same time. Kudos!
 

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Going to start working on this next weekend. Slowly build the box as I sound proof the entire vehicle, well try to do the entire thing. Do you happen to have measurements to make the job a little easier?
5/8 MDF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Going to start working on this next weekend. Slowly build the box as I sound proof the entire vehicle, well try to do the entire thing. Do you happen to have measurements to make the job a little easier?
5/8 MDF?
I used 5/8 MDF. You won't need a lot for a setup like this. I used less than 1/2 of a sheet. (I bought 2...dang it)

Measurements would only be a guide as I used the spare tire well opening as a reference for max dimension.

If I were to do this again, I would do the sound deadener first... one messy project at a time. Also, you run your wire and tuck it before the big messy fiberglass work. And if you drive it daily, one weekend would be deadener, reassemble interior, next weekend fiberglass.

To get volume of an odd shaped space, get a concrete form cylinder and styrofoam peanuts. Measure out the volume required by your woofer the calculation for that is 3.14*(radius*radius)*height of cylinder / 1728 to arrive at cubic feet.
For instance: I needed .69cubic feet. I measure an 8" cylinder to the height of 6 inches of peanuts.

3.14*(8^2)*6=1205.76 cubic inches.
To get cubic feet, I divided it by 12^3, or 12*12*12, 1728
1205.76/1728 = .6977 cubic feet

Now kind of block off the space you need with cardboard or something and see how your "foam air space" works around the space with the subwoofer sitting in it. This is a good rough guide.

Try and build a little over as volume can be taken out easily. I actually built closer to 1 cubic foot before wire runs and foam filler.

List of important considerations:
Are you keeping the spare?
Is it a drop in or hinged?
Speaker size?
Clearance of top of woofer to bottom of hatch floor deck (at max excursion)

Go nuts, have a good time and be patient with your calculations, fittings, etc. This is very different from dropping a woofer in a box.

Sorry for the long post. And VERY sorry if I made it sound like you don't know what you're doing. I tend to try and explain everything to a person with the assumption that they want a complete answer.
 

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This looks really effing nice. I've got a JL 10"sub in a box just sitting in my hatch, and I absolutely hate how much room it takes up. I also keep a tuperware container back there for my work boots, and between the two I have very little room left over. This may be the answer to my problem!
 

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This is really awesome! I'd echo the earlier comment that if you were building these, I'd buy one. I've been trying to figure out how to get a decent little amp and sub in the back without hosing all of the useable cargo space.
 

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Clean install! Very nnice work!
 
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