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D113's Audio System Overhaul, Phase 3!

11657 Views 9 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  jomin1016
Hey everyone, just though I'd post the updates from the previous bunch of work I did.

For those who missed it, here's my previous bunch of work:

D113's Forte Audio install.. phase 2. - Kia Forum

The latest update addresses major rattling issues, additonal amp, eq, and sub, sound deadening, adding top notch components to the doors, a high current power cell, and a few touch-ups.

First, to get rid of the major rattle you get when you put 500+ Watts RMS into your trunk. The rattle comes from the rear plastic trim behind the rear seat above the trunk rattling against the rear window.

Solution: You should be able to do this simply with 1 inch wide weather stripping but I used that and another product on mine.

The last picture shows the added weatherstripping around the perimeter of the raised brake light cover. I cut the 1 inch strip in half and created a nice outline. Since the windows are tinted, what you see with the flash is nearly invisible and less ugly than the picture shows.

If anyone is interested in where this product was purchased, let me know and I'll find out from the R+D department at work where they sourced it.

More to come!
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The second thing I needed to do was deaden the trunk and plate.

I purchased about 50 sqft. of RaamMat off a local seller. Great stuff, as easy to apply as Dynamat Extreme, if not heating required. The only thing Dynamat has on this is that Dynamat Extreme is easier to remove if improperly applied....meaning it really isn't as sticky :p

Remove the 10 ish plastic screws and holders and off comes the furry cover piece.

As you can see I did quite a bit. Do the knuckle knock test to find surfaces that vibrate more than others. As you know, this vehicle is quite affordable, and when it comes to metal work, many expenses were save in the quantity of metal and thickness departments.

more to come!
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more again

As for the licence plate, I had added two layers of Dynamat extreme from a two-speaker kit I won on ebay for $8. I then added a double thick layer of 1" x 1" weather stripping to the bottom corners. I also lined the back of the dealer plate's edges with it.

Problem solved.

Now on to the trunk itself.

Before re-attaching the plastic trim piece behind the rear seats, I Raammat'd the top of the trunk in the cabin. Rememeber to go underneath wires, do a U-wrap around holes where wires pass inside (see trunk lid pics) and to cut away spots for the holes for re-attaching trim pieces and such.

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trunk time!

Next was the inside of the trunk.

I sat this one out (as you'll see... the installer did this batch! I was luckily enough to everything I've shown you so far.. great installers, let me work on my own car with my own product while they did other stuff to get the costs waiver needed..just Tim Hortons and Donuts when I arrived :) )

Here's Kyle doing the dirty work. (poor guy had an accident in his Acura recently, rolled it. Lost his amp, 12w7 and Kenwood double-din deck.)

dont forget to get into the back of the outside skin beyond the brake lights... very thin there!
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trunk pt. 2

What you see in the in next picture is the Kinetic HC600 high current cell. (it's in the black carpeted holder) The equivalent of a 600 Farad capacitor that doesn't drain your battery while you are away on business! This is a must when running 1300 Watts RMS. When I had only 800W RMS with the one sub and 300/4, I would get dimming at higher volumes... no more!

You'll also notice the grounding.. and for the keen eyes.. you'll notice more grounds than amps! That's because the big fat one going up to the top corner is a full 0 AWG run from the front battery, practically negating the need for grounding the amps. The installers saved me a bunch of money on a distro block by using the ground mounts and battery terminals as the mounting posts.

a close up

FWIW I did also have them re-do the grounds in the engine compartment. (Negative battery to chassis, and engine to chassis)

pics can be supplied of those parts if needed, just ask.
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Don't forget to get the upper corners of the metal behind the seat!

(notice the 0AWG running along-side the factory harness...yep there's room)

Here are the sub amps ready and waiting, sitting on a blanket covering the door amp and the EQ.

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finishing the trunk

So, this has been my trunk prior to the phase 3, a temporary solution until the end of these posts. I added the second sub, new custom box, and battery about 3 months ago.

The problem is going to be getting in and out of the spare tire well should I get a flat. So, as a solution, we marked with duct tape, the rear edge of the box along the top of the cover, pulled it out, flipped it, and then scored it along the under side to allow this:

Then the amps were mounted to the back of the box and the cables cleaned up. (Phase 4 may include the solution to hiding them all.)

Then came this: (the only picture I was allowed to take of a closely guarded industry secret) LOL

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trunk finale and the doors

So, after the cardboard templating, wood cutting, test fitting, cutting, test fitting, and finally the vinyl treatment....


Yep, we couldn't do it as a one-piece, so rather than split it in the middle I had them break it up.

Now for the last bit.

Deadening the doors AND!, installing the JL Audio C5-650's and the Boston Pro 6.5LF's with Neo 5ts.

Not much different in the fronts aside from a different woofer, and a different crossover.

In go the Bostons.

Now to find a place for the tweets!
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and the last bit.

Here's on of the few places on the rear door that is flat, and wont hit a person or a cushion.

So there it is! Let me know if you have any questions! I'll post a walk-around video and more pics once I get all the Salt of it!


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Lookin good!!! -:) (I'm guessin it sounds good too...) A walk around video would be nice too....can't wait for that. And of course if you wanna stick those pics of the negative battery to chassis, and engine to chassis regrounding in there, it'd be nice too...
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