D113's Forte Build log, part 5 Rear Doors FULL SEAL!! and Ensolite
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Full seal instructions
So.. I had some dynamat extreme trunk kit leftovers I bought locally for cheap.
I had read on Rammaudio.com's install guide that if you want to do a full-seal...
"
Sealing the access holes
Sound deadening mat is not rigid enough for you to just stick a big piece over the large openings in the door. You need to build a foundation first. Most any sheet metal that is flexible enough to bend and cut to shape and will not rust will work. Galvanized tin, anodized aluminum, perforated aluminum or even the aluminum roof flashing sold by the roll at home improvement centers will work. Even aluminum screen door repair panels from your local hardware store work just fine. We prefer perforated aluminum because it is low in weight and easy to form but it can be a bit hard to find locally. We use self tapping sheet metal screws to secure it. If you don’t want to drill holes, you can hold it in place with silicone sealer or a similar adhesive. Don’t use something like epoxy, because you or somebody else will want or need to get into the door at some point."
I went with the aluminum screen material.
I bought a 12 dollar roll, and a roll of aluminum "gaff" tape.. (muffler tape)
Here's a pic that I will try to explain:
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EDIT: Adding the following:
If you are going to full seal, you have to trash your current one. Pull, and try to take the Butyl rope with the plastic.
Through it in the garbage. THERE's no turning back once you've ripped it out.
OLD door pic:
![]()
Door NOW!
![]()
I unrolled a few feet of the roll, held it up to the door and cut a rectangular piece to go over the top hole. I then cut a triangle out of the bottom left corner to follow the trim line. I then held it up to get an idea of where I should cut the hold for the door lock piece to go through. I put the assembly through, and began to tape the top edge. I would recommend half of the tape on the mesh, half on the door. Follow the perimeter of the mesh,.. pull it tight as you go. Once you'd done the perimeter, do another perimeter, but have half the tape on the tape, and the other half on "more" mesh.
Next, what's not in the pic, is that I did a full length diagonal strip from topright to bottom left, and then doubled it up. Make sure it starts and stops on the door not the mesh. This adds a center brace "of sorts".
More to come.
So.. I had some dynamat extreme trunk kit leftovers I bought locally for cheap.
I had read on Rammaudio.com's install guide that if you want to do a full-seal...
"
Sealing the access holes
Sound deadening mat is not rigid enough for you to just stick a big piece over the large openings in the door. You need to build a foundation first. Most any sheet metal that is flexible enough to bend and cut to shape and will not rust will work. Galvanized tin, anodized aluminum, perforated aluminum or even the aluminum roof flashing sold by the roll at home improvement centers will work. Even aluminum screen door repair panels from your local hardware store work just fine. We prefer perforated aluminum because it is low in weight and easy to form but it can be a bit hard to find locally. We use self tapping sheet metal screws to secure it. If you don’t want to drill holes, you can hold it in place with silicone sealer or a similar adhesive. Don’t use something like epoxy, because you or somebody else will want or need to get into the door at some point."
I went with the aluminum screen material.
I bought a 12 dollar roll, and a roll of aluminum "gaff" tape.. (muffler tape)
Here's a pic that I will try to explain:
EDIT: Adding the following:
If you are going to full seal, you have to trash your current one. Pull, and try to take the Butyl rope with the plastic.
Through it in the garbage. THERE's no turning back once you've ripped it out.
OLD door pic:
Door NOW!
I unrolled a few feet of the roll, held it up to the door and cut a rectangular piece to go over the top hole. I then cut a triangle out of the bottom left corner to follow the trim line. I then held it up to get an idea of where I should cut the hold for the door lock piece to go through. I put the assembly through, and began to tape the top edge. I would recommend half of the tape on the mesh, half on the door. Follow the perimeter of the mesh,.. pull it tight as you go. Once you'd done the perimeter, do another perimeter, but have half the tape on the tape, and the other half on "more" mesh.
Next, what's not in the pic, is that I did a full length diagonal strip from topright to bottom left, and then doubled it up. Make sure it starts and stops on the door not the mesh. This adds a center brace "of sorts".
More to come.
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928 Posts
Do the second hole the same way. Any time you run into an item in the way, make a slit on the side of it. Then, tape down one side of the slit, and then the other overtop.
Next, as per before, add deadener. Be very carefull not to go past where the trim covers.... if you do, try WD40 to wipe of excess butyl rubber.
Next comes the "CLAY"!
stay tuned
here's Apecio's fully deadened trunk lid... no more vibrations!
![]()
Next, as per before, add deadener. Be very carefull not to go past where the trim covers.... if you do, try WD40 to wipe of excess butyl rubber.
Next comes the "CLAY"!
stay tuned
here's Apecio's fully deadened trunk lid... no more vibrations!
Joined
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928 Posts
alrighty.. back from dinner.
The whole point of adding dynamat or other Deadener products, is to add MASS.
Mass prevents vibrations at various frequencies. Adding mass to a vehicle, especially a forte, is fairly inexpensive to get results of luxury cars.
If you closed your Forte door after a good deadening, it sounds like a BMW's.
Another factor for Forte owners who upgrade their speakers, is if you put some serious power through them, and they are mounted to the OEM speaker "collar", the plastic vibrates too,
I was doing a little reading on the DIYMA forums about Clay-like products.
I went to home Depot (Canada) and found this product:
![]()
I know it's not the clearest picture, butI'll try and explain it for people looking to get their own similar product.
I asked for, -A product that's clay-like, non-soluable, and non-drying. I explained that it's a product used to pack PVC tubes outside of buildings where conduit goes in.
They mentioned it's also used as a duct sealer.
It comes in little bricks, about 1 lb in weight, sealed with the wrapper above.
You may want to wear rubber/latex gloves as this stuff is a little sticky.
Take the product out, and TRY to get the silly layer on the back to peel off.
Divide the product into 4 clumps. and roll it into a "cigar".
![]()
The whole point of adding dynamat or other Deadener products, is to add MASS.
Mass prevents vibrations at various frequencies. Adding mass to a vehicle, especially a forte, is fairly inexpensive to get results of luxury cars.
If you closed your Forte door after a good deadening, it sounds like a BMW's.
Another factor for Forte owners who upgrade their speakers, is if you put some serious power through them, and they are mounted to the OEM speaker "collar", the plastic vibrates too,
I was doing a little reading on the DIYMA forums about Clay-like products.
I went to home Depot (Canada) and found this product:
I know it's not the clearest picture, butI'll try and explain it for people looking to get their own similar product.
I asked for, -A product that's clay-like, non-soluable, and non-drying. I explained that it's a product used to pack PVC tubes outside of buildings where conduit goes in.
They mentioned it's also used as a duct sealer.
It comes in little bricks, about 1 lb in weight, sealed with the wrapper above.
You may want to wear rubber/latex gloves as this stuff is a little sticky.
Take the product out, and TRY to get the silly layer on the back to peel off.
Divide the product into 4 clumps. and roll it into a "cigar".
Joined
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928 Posts
Now that you've deadened, clayed, sealed... it's time for some ensolite. Ensolite and other closed-cell foams by all the major players are a means to add a sonicly deadening product...one that absorbs sound, not vibration. As I was installing it.. it was crazy how just my voice felt like it was inside my head...kinda like I was talking with my face in a pillow compared to the dynamat type deadener. Closed cell foam also helps prevent the squeeks and knocks from trim panels touching their metal doors.
It's imperative that you do not try and use any foam, simply due to the fact that many open cell foams absorb water and grow mold.. so if you are going to use a product like this, make sure it's the right stuff.
The stuff gets installed just like the deadener, cut to size, push on repeat.
Some of the other products aren't peel and stick, so you'll need to use a 3M adhesive to stick it on.
Raammat Ensolite
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That's all I have for tonight!
Stay tuned for Front doors, Floors, and maybe even the ceiling!
It's imperative that you do not try and use any foam, simply due to the fact that many open cell foams absorb water and grow mold.. so if you are going to use a product like this, make sure it's the right stuff.
The stuff gets installed just like the deadener, cut to size, push on repeat.
Some of the other products aren't peel and stick, so you'll need to use a 3M adhesive to stick it on.
Raammat Ensolite
That's all I have for tonight!
Stay tuned for Front doors, Floors, and maybe even the ceiling!
Joined
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109 Posts
i was too busy to take pics since we started at 11:30am i didn't finish and clean up till 1:00am i am soooo soar. today is the big test... will take it out on the road and see how it sounds... however i did the sound test inside... and not one rattle... fixed my little annoying noises everywhere especially the back seat pannel.
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Oh I know, I just used the term Dynamat, but I'm going to use a similar, but not so overpriced, product.
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