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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been reading a lot about CAI and K&N filters, I was wondering is it worth doing the modification. I have done a basic mod as shown in photo, it sounded good but the noise got to me after a while. I didn't notice any improvement in performance maybe a bit better response on accelerator.
I have some flexible hose (3 1/2") and I'm going to try the filter down low underneath the battery.
Turbokits CAI systems are too expensive when freight comes into it if posted to Australia.
But before I do this Modification I want to know from someone that has done it, if its worth all the hassle
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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Make a difference? Yes, in sound and appearance. I hate dyno tests used to show changes...5-7 HP difference can be due as much to engine temperature, air temperature, barometric pressure difference, humidity, faulty dyno, etc. Track times on the same day as close to each other as possible would be more telling.

IMO a CAI is a personal touch, as much for appearance as it is for intake noise. Some people like to hear the intake air rushing in. Makes the car sound faster -- for sure. In truth if a CAI does honestly give your car 5-7 horsepower then your car will be MAYBE half a car length faster than a car you ran against without the CAI.
 

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Lets ask Bill Nye the Science guy...Haha. Colder air is more dense = more O2 molecules per same amount of air. YES! it makes a difference.
 

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It's the change in where the HP becomes more accessible. Low to mid range is more responsive. I took off my CAI to get a fix done at the dealer and that 30 block drive sucked on acceleration in comparison. I could no longer do short rev and quick clutch or it would bog out, where as the with the CAI it kept up the HP and spun the tires a little (TCS off). Tapping the accelerator also didn't give quick response.
 

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I can't speak about CAI - but I do know from experience that the K&N air filter will NOT yield any appreciable results at all. Total waste of time and money. This topic has been covered before and some will jump in to tell you they they got a whopping 1-2hp gain....whoo hooo to that. Again its a waste of time and money.
 

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Is it me or does the car already have a ram air intake system from the factory???
I think that it what it looks like when the hood is open???
 

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Is it me or does the car already have a ram air intake system from the factory???
I think that it what it looks like when the hood is open???
If you left the hood open then yes it would be a ram intake. But with it closed it is blocked from direct intake and pulls from the lower grill area. You could put a little scoop on the very front of the hood so it gets straight air but it would look kinda funny.
 

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im sorry, what does a K&N have to do with this thread?
anyways, i cant wait for the finished product from turbokits.com.
waiting to order tho. gotta save first! ^_^
i like the way it looks and sounds. any little gain in HP isnt a biggy for me cuz im not racing any1.
 

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I am waiting for someone to install an aftermarket CAI and compare actual intake temps vs. the stock CAI setup. I have a thread elsewhere on the forum where I tested stock vs. open element in engine bay, and I would like to see if there is an actual difference in drawing the air from where ever the aftermarket CAI pipes in from.

I have no plans to install an aftermarket CAI in my car, so don't all sit there waiting for me to do it.
 

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I would need a short ram intake setup to compare my CAI with it regarding temps since the SRI would be pulling most air from the upper part of the engine bay near the back of the engine where most heat would accumulate before being dispursed out the rear hood area and lower under car area near the exhaust manifold. I have my old SRI from my Pontiac Wave setup before switching it to CAI. Maybe I can set it up to work with this car. I can rig thermal probes and gauge from my extra computer parts to monitor the intake temp of both setups. This sounds like a fun project. I will name my probe rigging the Therminator...
 

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I am waiting for someone to install an aftermarket CAI and compare actual intake temps vs. the stock CAI setup. I have a thread elsewhere on the forum where I tested stock vs. open element in engine bay, and I would like to see if there is an actual difference in drawing the air from where ever the aftermarket CAI pipes in from.

I have no plans to install an aftermarket CAI in my car, so don't all sit there waiting for me to do it.

Dude--no pressure. It's all love on here!
 

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It's the change in where the HP becomes more accessible. Low to mid range is more responsive. I took off my CAI to get a fix done at the dealer and that 30 block drive sucked on acceleration in comparison. I could no longer do short rev and quick clutch or it would bog out, where as the with the CAI it kept up the HP and spun the tires a little (TCS off). Tapping the accelerator also didn't give quick response.
What brand of Cai do you have? is it the turbokits one?
Also I was wondering if it was possible to just put togethor a Cai from aftermarket pipes and air filter etc. and what specs/pipe sizes would you have to use to make it most effective. that is IF it is even possible.
Because I find the turbokits CAI a little expensive at $250 plus shipping.
 

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It's the TurboKits one. I was prototyping for the Koup EX. You could build your own, not sure on costs. K&N cone filter local here is 65 and the TurboKits has been developed with minimum bending in the 3inch tubing to reduce air flow restriction.
We have a member that built his own but he has the skill and equipment to do it.
 

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Quick Question..

How does a Chrome Pipe and Filter magically make it a COLD AIR intake?

From Wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_air_intake

A cold air intake is a device used to bring lower temperature air into a car's internal-combustion engine, to increase engine power and efficiency. Standard air intake systems tend to be very restrictive sacrificing engine power or efficiency in order to eliminate engine noise. Aftermarket cold air intake systems come in many different colors and sizes, and are easy to install when compared with other performance-increasing modifications. All cold air intakes operate on the principle of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Because cooler air has a higher density (greater mass per unit volume), cold air intakes generally work by introducing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. However, the term "cold air intake" is often used incorrectly to describe an air filter system with an exposed filter in the engine bay, which actually increases the temperature of the air entering an engine.
Some strategies used in designing cold-air intakes are:

  • Increasing the diameter of the air intake, reducing airflow velocity and pumping losses.
  • Smoothing the interior of the intake to reduce air resistance.
  • Providing a more direct route to the air intake by eliminating muffling devices.
  • Shortening the length of the intake.
  • Using a less restrictive air filter, usually trading filtering quality for increased airflow capacity.
 

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I see so you're suggesting that it's better to get the turbokits one, I guess it makes sense since they made it specifically to produce the most HP gains. I tried putting on just a cone filter which i just had laying around, it sounded different I'm not sure if I can say nice. but definitely different and speed wise I definitely didn't notice any gains. I guess it's just pointless if it's not getting cooler air.
 

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Quick Question..

How does a Chrome Pipe and Filter magically make it a COLD AIR intake?

From Wikipedia

Cold air intake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A cold air intake is a device used to bring lower temperature air into a car's internal-combustion engine, to increase engine power and efficiency. Standard air intake systems tend to be very restrictive sacrificing engine power or efficiency in order to eliminate engine noise. Aftermarket cold air intake systems come in many different colors and sizes, and are easy to install when compared with other performance-increasing modifications. All cold air intakes operate on the principle of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Because cooler air has a higher density (greater mass per unit volume), cold air intakes generally work by introducing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. However, the term "cold air intake" is often used incorrectly to describe an air filter system with an exposed filter in the engine bay, which actually increases the temperature of the air entering an engine.
Some strategies used in designing cold-air intakes are:

  • Increasing the diameter of the air intake, reducing airflow velocity and pumping losses.
  • Smoothing the interior of the intake to reduce air resistance.
  • Providing a more direct route to the air intake by eliminating muffling devices.
  • Shortening the length of the intake.
  • Using a less restrictive air filter, usually trading filtering quality for increased airflow capacity.
Good stuff man! Way better than my bill nye explanation...LOL
 

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Anthony-You forgot to post the best part!! Advantages

Other advantages to having a cold air intake installed include:

  • Increased horsepower and torque
  • Improved throttle response and fuel economy in most cases
Disadvantages


  • Hydrolock - The intake opening is lower to the ground than a standard air box, and more likely to introduce water into the engine when fording streams or flooded roads. Hydrolock generally does not occur unless the filter is fully submerged in water."Bypass filters" can be purchased which prevent most water from entering the engine. Some people use hydro shields to prevent this from occurring, however hydro shields are not completely water proof if the intake tube is completely submerged in water.

  • Noise - Stock air filtration systems usually include resonator-based muffling tubes. Removing them reduces pumping losses but increases noise.

  • Can void the engine warranty - Many auto manufacturers are denying warranty repairs of vehicles that have aftermarket engine modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Got some parts today and I'm going to build my own CAI, the flexi hose might not be right but its 75mm in diameter so shouldn't be too much air turbulance. I bought far too much flexi pipe
 
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