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The only problem I have with an ECU reflash is later you have to reflash again if you mod the car with new stuff. I like piggyback ECU's because you can just plug in and adjust right after you install.
 

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How do you know it's only 7hp? the video seemed to give the impression it's something like 30HP..

I would do this in second if I participated in stuff like CSCS.. but I don't.
 

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your guys cars are tuned like shiot stock.. it's running low 11's AFR stock.. shit i run high 11s and i'm boosted lol .. you should be running mid to high 12s afr NA .. i'm sure you could pick up a decent amount of hp with just a tune

full bolt ons and a tune.. i'd say maybe 30hp
 

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I find it slightly funny that everyone likes the idea of a piggyback, but to my knowledge no one has bought the RRM piggyback. I would love to have that option available for the Mazda, instead we have to live with a shitty reflash.
yea and people bitch cuz it's like 400 bux for 7 hp or something .. yeaa. 400 bux.. you can retune as much as you'd like.. and most of the times intakes and catbacks yeild that much for the same price.. but then again.. if you dont know how to tune.. you can fuckz shits up real bad real quick
 

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^^ look at the whole power band rather than just the peak hp gain.
 

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^^ look at the whole power band rather than just the peak hp gain.
Looking at the chart it seems to be relatively "stable" with the increase in hp and torque across the entire powerband. The "peak" hp gain is just under 4 hp (actually 3.8...not much at all). What am I missing? I'm not asking that in a facetious manner, but rather because I truly don't know if I'm not seeing something important.
 

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When you have a steady increase of HP across the entire powerband, it is WAY more noticeable than putting on an intake which may increase hi/low rpm power but decrease power in a different part of the power band.
 

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Looking at the chart it seems to be relatively "stable" with the increase in hp and torque across the entire powerband. The "peak" hp gain is just under 4 hp (actually 3.8...not much at all). What am I missing? I'm not asking that in a facetious manner, but rather because I truly don't know if I'm not seeing something important.
What can happen when you install an intake is that you gain peak power or power in one small RPM. In some cases this can affect the rest of the power band. A CAI on a Suzuki SX4 does wonders for peak power but also moves the power to a higher RPM range. Adding in the Piggy ECU solves the issue with out losing the power because it allows you to readjust fuel for the CAI so it is effective across the whole RPM range. By itself the Piggyback ECU will only give you a modest gain, that is not the point, it is to use with other mods so you can remap fuel to allow increases across the whole RPM spectrum, not just a small segment.

This is why I also dislike reflashes because you will either need the equipement to reflash the car, which is expensive, or have to go back to the original shop when you add/remove/change a part. With a piggy you can get any tuner shop to do it as long as you have the software, and it is easy to upload a map if you friend or another board member has the same parts and a tune already.
 

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Thanks for the explanation, guys. That makes a ton of sense!

However, I've heard of other piggybacks and ECU flashes that give you a much larger hp gain. My only complaint with this one is that the bump seems so small...less than 4 hp is very small, imo. I do agree that it's better to have that gain across the entire power-band, though. It makes me wonder if the RRM piggy back modifies the timing at all...they seem to indicate that they only optimize fuel/air ratio (which is important, too), but getting more of a spark-advance would be even better.
 

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Have you seen the DYNO charts for our Intake & Exhaust, more power from start to finish!!!

When you have a steady increase of HP across the entire powerband, it is WAY more noticeable than putting on an intake which may increase hi/low rpm power but decrease power in a different part of the power band.
 

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So did anyone get their Forte Flashed?

How did it feel afterward?
 

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Bumping an old thread I guess, but I was taking a look at the RRM piggyback for my '10 Koup. I looked at the dyno sheet and noticed couple of things:

1) There is much more usable power through the rev range. It enters the powerband earlier too—not by much, but I have the 4AT. It's crossing the 70hp threshold at 3100 RPM vs. 3250 and climbs from there. When you're pulling in 2nd from low speed this does make a big difference.

2) Everyone seems to be making a big deal over the "only" 4hp peak gain, but there seems to be a couple of things you're all overlooking. Baseline dyno was run in 85 degrees fahrenheit. Post-tune run was made at 91 degrees fahrenheit. What?! That's wayyy too hot to be trying to make power. Hotter air is much more difficult to compress. I'm just taking a stab here but I think the best temperature to be tuning in is probably 68-70 degrees F.

3) That 11:1 AFR is also just a tad rich at WOT.
 
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