It’s tough to know. My 21 GT went into limp mode with 6000 kms on it an it needed a full replacement engine harness. 🤷‍♂️

 

WOW!!! I hope that's not the true in my case.

 

You running a Racechip? I got all the same shit when I unplugged it without adding the service plug. The display is not the same on a 2022 but a similar warning. Try pulling the RC box (if you have a Racechip) and adding the service plug to see if it goes away.

 

Hummm ... interesting ... Yes, I do have a Recechip. I will test it right away. THANKS A LOT !!!

 

Make sure you install the service plug!!!!

 

Man, you saved me from a possible big complaint struggle with Kia and a big possibility I may lose.

I installed the service plug, and the first start only shows the "check engine" icon. The second start was the same, but at the third start, it went clean. I took it for a test drive and had no more problems. But it is an entirely different car without the Racechip. I put it back, but I will take it off again for a while because my wife uses the car most of the time. I will put it back for sure because I became a "junkie" of the additional 42 HP and 100 LBS torque (which includes XForce catback and CAI). Hahaha

Now, what did you do when this happened? Do you just take it off and put it back? What happened to yours when you said it "went belly up"?

Once again, THANKS A LOT !!!

 

Are we coming to a place now, where prolonged racechip use is starting to cause failures? 🤷‍♂️

 

Coincidence... I hope

 

Also wonder what fault codes ziggy has. Might be time for replacement ignition coils if they are misfire related. If Racechip itself fails over time there should be no issues to engine, the ecu will prevent any issues. You just need to decide if you want to replace the Racechip if it fails. For only $200-300 it is really a no brainer to get that extra 4-5psi of boost. I just added a Racechip to my 25 Seltos along with some NGK 1402 plugs. I plan to run it for as long as I own the vehicle even if it needs to be replaced after 3yrs for a random failure. The extra midrange power feels so much better.

 

The first time, the code was P0304 Current FAULT, P0301 Pending FAULT, and P0303 History FAULT, which I cleared using the vLinker MC USB scanner and two apps, Torque Pro and Car Scanner Pro. Later, the code came back and persisted as P0301 and P3000. Yesterday, I replaced the plug and the coil with cylinder #2. The problem was clear, but the check engine light was still on. And I installed the RC again. However, driving back home, the problem came back. My wife used the car this morning, and the limp mode returned. Tomorrow I will disconnect the RC and test it again. Will let you know.

PS. I have had my RC since 2021 and never had any problems. If it happens to be the RC, it will make me sad 😔. Without it, the car became a lot less fun.

 

First thing you can try is running the engine at 3000rpm in neutral for 20 minutes. See if that helps at all. If not I would do these things listed below.

I would suggest grabbing 4 of these
Amazon.com: MSD 8269 Ignition Coils Blaster Series, Red, Single : Automotive

Maybe replace all 4 plugs, I like the NGK 1402 gapped to .031
Amazon.com: NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug SILKR8A-S (4 Pack) for ACURA RDX BASE 2007-2012 2.3L/2300cc : Automotive

And try Racechip at Map5

There is a chance you could have a bad batch of fuel or even a fuel related problem (injector). The other fix for this issue is the alternator needing replacement to fix the misfire codes.

 

** UPDATE INFORMATION ON MY RaceChip GTS5 **

I contacted customer service and tested all their recommendations, including replacing the spark plugs (BOSCH and now HKS 50003-M45XL M). The car has no problems except when the RC is connected. They sent me a free FedEx return label, and I sent my RC back to Germany. A couple of weeks later (most of that time spent in German customs), they sent me a new one (it might have been refurbished), and I tried it out. Although the Bluetooth connection fails (even after setting the app with the new serial number), I was able to set it manually, and it still has the same problem. Is it possible that my car suffered damage after driving it for over three years? Should I replace the coils as well, according to 2023BD recommendations? Any recommendations from the tech-savvy guys in the forum?

By the way, they charge me nothing for replacing my almost four years RC device.

 

It seems like my RC gone bad. Yesterday replaced the spark plugs suggested by my mechanic. Ran well while RC was disconnected, but started to act as soon as I reconnected it. So, what's now? Buy a new one? Can it be fixed?

 

Pretty sure they are 20% off right now for the GTS. You can try using code rbr15 if you decide to get a S or RS for 15% off

 

I wrote to the RaceChip guys, and they asked me to do some testing. The results were that the system behaved properly up to map 2. After that, it just won't work as expected.

 

Time to get another one

 

What are the current fault codes and does the car run fine some of the time or is there always a problem. Does WOT cause the issue or normal driving?

Amazon.com: Genuine OEM 27301-2B120 Ignition Coil / 273012B120 for Hyundai Kona 18-21 Veloster 15-21 Elantra 17-20 Sonata 15-19 Tucson 16-18 Kia : Automotive

I still see lots of dealers changing the alternator for similar issues.

 

The ODB2 scanner only shows an archived P0301. I tested with and without (deactivate plug), and stepped on it hard, and it only sputtered with the Racechip activated. I also tried with all seven (7) maps, and it reacts almost in the same order as the maps. The aggressive the map, the bigger the problem. In maps 1 & 2, it will only do so if I press the accelerator to the floor and keep it there until the red line, then shift to the next gear. Map 7 is the worst. Although I can feel a substantial difference in performance, it will continue to misbehave as I continue to push the accelerator. As I mentioned earlier, I replaced the spark plugs with a set from Bosch at Autozone locally, but later I replaced them with HKS. Both worked the same with the Racechip.

 

Are you still getting the P030? codes when the RC is installed?
P0300 is multiple cylinder ignition system problem
P0301 Is Cyl 1 ign problem
P0302 is Cyl 2 ign problem
P0303 is Cyl 3 ign problem
P0304 is Cyl 4 ign problem.

 

Are you still getting the P030? codes when the RC is installed?
P0300 is multiple cylinder ignition system problem
P0301 Is Cyl 1 ign problem
P0302 is Cyl 2 ign problem
P0303 is Cyl 3 ign problem
P0304 is Cyl 4 ign problem.

No, not this time. It only shows an archive code, P0300. I don't remember which one. I misplaced my ODB2 scanner; it must be in my house somewhere.

 

Did they replace the harness too or just the module?

 

No, I still have the same harness. They told me that if I plug the disconnecting plug and the car works okay, then the harness is good. If you know if I can get a new harness, I'll buy it again for peace of mind.

 

I have not followed every detail of this problem but if you are getting codes on one cylinder and swap ign parts around and the code moves you know that your probably ok when it comes to fuel injector issue. Then it just comes down to coils, plugs or alternator. But if the code stays on one cylinder most likely an injector.

 

Yes, I tried swapping the spark plug and the problem persisted. However, that was during the first instance I encountered this issue. I have not attempted it again, as there is no check engine light and no new code.

 

How big are those gaps?

 

Don't know. Can get a gap tool, but if they were incorrect, why might it be that they only fail when the RC is connected?

 

From here they look big… I could be wrong though

 

I would agree. Looks like they may be in the upper .030s

 

Owners using the JB4 set gaps at .024"-.028". Burger/JB4 recommends a smaller gap.

 

Well I still stand by what has worked so well for myself and others using Racechip or even stock. NGK 1402 (SILKR8A-S) gapped to .028 to .031

Should be able to get those for $50-60 a set.

 

What are your recommendations? Still, the fact that it fails only when RC is installed.

This

NGK 1402 (SILKR8A-S) gapped to .028 to .031