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I have been searching online and asking others, but still confused about engine oil. Well, I have been using Pennzoil and it's doing a great job, but I just read somewhere that Pennzoil creates wax buildup that may be caused an engine failure. Can anyone confirm this and shed some lights on this topic? Now I am trying to choose between Valvoline, Castrol and Mobil 1, but can't decide which one to use. Looking forward to hear your advice before getting into anything.


Any recommendations?
 

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Welcome to the forum. :)

If you really want to learn about oil, check out the forums on Bobistheoilguy.com/forums. Most of the guys over there have forgotten more about oil than you or I will ever know about oil.

I usually use Castrol or Penzoil. I've never had much luck with Mobil1. It either burns off or disappears some other way, but the car will use oil where it would not use oil in some other brand.

I think the 'wax' issue with Penzoil is long gone. Any of the oils you mentioned are quality oils. Todays oils are much better than the oils of thirty years ago. I use synthetics much of the time because it makes me feel better. But in truth, synthetics really shine when it comes to extreme high or extreme low temperatures.

Any of todays name brand oils, whether dino or synthetic will work just fine for you.
 

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Why the confusion? Why wouldn't you simply follow Kia's recommended guide and use the oil they specify? Your engine has a 10 year warranty, I am sure they they will be using the proper oil so they don't have to replace your engine within 10 years. And if they aren't, no problem- you are covered under warranty. What are you trying to accomplish by using an oil other than what they recommend? Also, How do you know that your Penzoil is doing a great job? Based on what findings? Did you do an engine tear-down and see how it's performing under a pre-determined stress test?
 

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The key point is not the 10 years but the 100,000 miles. The 10 years is just to make it sound longer. Most people put more than 10,000 miles per year on any car in fact I put on over 20,000 per year.

Using conventional oil and the dealer or DIY oil change will safely make it beyond the warranty time frame. I don't see the need to tear down an engine to see if the oil is doing its job. There are places like Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis. Or do a google search and use another one if interested. It would be much cheaper than an engine tear down.

Use the recommended 5w20 and oil specs but I recommend going synthetic. Amsoil would be my choice. Using synthetic oil make the engine run smoother and quieter plus in my case I also increase my fuel economy. Your results may vary. I gained almost 2 mpg on a 2007 Chevy Silverado when I switched to synthetic oil. My next oil change on my Koup will be Amsoil synthetic but I plan to use the OEM Kia filter and crush washer.
 

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Why the confusion? Why wouldn't you simply follow Kia's recommended guide and use the oil they specify? Your engine has a 10 year warranty, I am sure they they will be using the proper oil so they don't have to replace your engine within 10 years. And if they aren't, no problem- you are covered under warranty. What are you trying to accomplish by using an oil other than what they recommend? Also, How do you know that your Penzoil is doing a great job? Based on what findings? Did you do an engine tear-down and see how it's performing under a pre-determined stress test?
Ahhhh the old "we're gonna use this cheap ass oil and filter on your car and if it messes up, so what? it's covered under warranty."
maybe he doesn't want to worry about the stress of having your new car mess up? maybe he knows 99% of the time if you want something done right you have to do it yourself? just some thoughts.
 

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99% of the population that uses conventional oil and cheap filters have no issues resulting from it. The 1% that do have issues are typically owners of cars like the last generation Toyota Camry V6 which, after 2 years on the market, was found to have hot and cold spots in the cylinder heads due to a design flaw. The result of this flaw was severe sludging in the cylinder heads, which eventually clogged the oil passages and turned the engines into expensive paperweights. Using synthetic oil in these engines all but eliminated the problem, and was mandated by Toyota after the flaw was discovered.

This leads me to the reason that I use synthetics in every engine I own (including my lawnmower). Nobody knows yet if the Forte engines are prone to sludging, so I use the product that's least likely to sludge, and most likely to survive the extreme temperatures seen in my engine during a typical Texas summer. I'm purchasing peace-of-mind, whether I truly NEED a synthetic oil or not. It resists thermal breakdown and shearing better than any conventional oil, and could possibly save me some repair hassles down the road in case my 2.4 turns out to be anything like Toyota's V6. For me, the extra cost is worth it.
 

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I agree either an engine tear down or a lab result lets us know if the oil is doing a 'great job'. I just prefer more analytical data when somebody says 'its doing a great job' with no real conclusive data to back it up, other than that the car turns on and seems to be 'running fine'. I can dump Quaker state mud into my engine and it will run 'fine' too. As for the synthetic oil, well I personally have used both dino and synthetic and I have determined that living in NJ will never allow me to harness the power of synthetic oil. It didn't quiet my engine any more than it already is nor did I get better MPG. Our weather conditions are mild and I am a daily driver to work 8 miles a day and Walmart on the weekends. Dino serves me well. But maybe somebody else can benefit.
 

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Obviously, synthetic with a high quality filter is the way to go if you don't mind spending the extra $.

However as long as you run a good quality oil from a reputable company following the recommended specs with a good quality oil filter, everything will be just fine.
 

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Please take note that dealers use bulk oil ( like Kendall ). Thus, Penzoil is more than good enough to keep your car under warranty, provided that you can prove you are using same or better oil filter than Kia/Hyundai filter.
 

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I just use any old oil that meets factory specs. I think this is a non-issue to reap profits. You could put in Wal-Mart oil and use their oil filter and it would be just fine.
I would, however, use 5w-20 SM grade oil year round and consider worrying about something worthwhile like the North Koreans lighting off a nuke some day. But worrying about what kind of oil, as good as they are today, is just a waste of time. It doesn't make any difference.
 

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I personally use a Kia filter and crush washer w/ Pennzoil 5W30 dino oil.

The dealer here uses Mobil 1 dino... Dealers will simply use whatever they get the best price on.
 

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I have no idea what kind of oil is in my car. I just let the dealership handle it. They only charge me $31 for an oil change. If it dies on me within 100k, it is their problem. I don't keep cars for much longer than that anyway, so if it dies after that point I'll scrap it.
 

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That is fine for the first 100k miles but if you keep the car longer the repair bill is on you. 100k is not very far and will not take 10 yrs for the average driver.
 

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Why the confusion? Why wouldn't you simply follow Kia's recommended guide and use the oil they specify? QUOTE]

WOW really? KIA specifies a specific brand of oil?

I think the dude just wanted to know what BRAND of oil is best for his car.

I personally use Mobile Clean 5000, as does my local dealer. It is a non-synthetic oil which I can usually find for $12 in the 5 qt jug at walmart.
 

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2021 Forte GT w/GT2, Currant Red, SXTH Element Intercooler Kit, Evilla Exhaust, Takeda S2 Intake
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Posts like this illicit responses of all kinds and will never finish with a concrete answer...SOOOO...I'll add my 2 cents: When I was a kid I used Quaker State motor oils in my big-block V8 engines. Never had a problem (but I did change it @2K miles) -- including tearing down an engine with 60K on it and it still had hone marks on the cylinder walls (I was modifying the engine for racing, not because it went bad), So stories about Quaker State just keep going and going and going (Appologies to the energizer bunny).

However in all my smaller engines I have used Castrol Dino Oil...including a Ford I bought as a teenager with a 3.3L (200 CID) L6 engine that was my DD for 27 years! Never had the engine rebuilt -- although I did put new rings and bearings in it @153K miles - the block was never removed from the car. That Ford had well over 200K when I sold it -- still driving. In all of my Kias since 2000 I have used Castrol oil...and I've not had any engine problems, period (knock on Wood - my head...LoL!).

So my advice -- Castrol 5w-20 OR what ever weight your owners manual tells you to use. Peace of mind for sure!
 

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Just hit 6k miles and ready for an oil change/maintenance.

What are you guys filling up with? I'm looking at Motul, Red Line. Considered Mobil 1 ESP but seems engineered for the VAG cars. Recommendations?
 

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Just hit 6k miles and ready for an oil change/maintenance.

What are you guys filling up with? I'm looking at Motul, Red Line. Considered Mobil 1 ESP but seems engineered for the VAG cars. Recommendations?
Still using Castrol synthetic blend in my wife's Optima and Castrol full Synthetic in my Forte GT.

Whatever you choose to use...don't worry about it. As long as you use a name-brand oil that meets Kia's requirements you're good...

Just keep records for warranty longevity.
 

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For 1st and 2nd Generation Fortes, you should use OEM filters. Otherwise, buy the oil, which is specified. And not just the 5W20, there are more specs. to observe. I, too, will recommend using synthetic oils. Kia is not as extreme as for example BMW, which needs 5W30, but one which conforms to a specific BMW norm. Well, each 5W20 or 5W30 are not equal at all. And for the record, the 'W' stands for Winter.
 
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Put in Mobil 1 extended performance full synthetic oil with a K&N filter for my first change. My gut dropped as the stuff coming out was dark as night. Hope the effects of a missed & long overdue change won't be too drastic on the engine.
 
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