I have a 2011 EX with 400 miles on it now. I want to switch to synthetic and was wondering when I should, what weight of oil (in kentucky), what kind of filter and will changing oil weight void the warranty and should the crush gasket be replaced with a rubber one?
engine oil questions?
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Owner's manual provides specs and torque values.
Either aftermarket or factory filter is fine although factory filter uses a round gasket which is a good idea as it won't adhere to the gasket surface. It also comes with the pan gasket. I've never changed one in my life but many people swear by them.
Personally, I believe that synthetic oil is a waste of money but each to his own. I've used it and never found any advantage; just a lighter wallet. A good 5W-20 oil rated "SM" is what the factory calls for. I use NAPA (Valvoline) and their filter (WIX) myself. Just get the proper filter that will fit the filter. It is money well spent.
This is the easiest oil change you will ever make. I find about 4.8 quarts of oil is what is required.
Either aftermarket or factory filter is fine although factory filter uses a round gasket which is a good idea as it won't adhere to the gasket surface. It also comes with the pan gasket. I've never changed one in my life but many people swear by them.
Personally, I believe that synthetic oil is a waste of money but each to his own. I've used it and never found any advantage; just a lighter wallet. A good 5W-20 oil rated "SM" is what the factory calls for. I use NAPA (Valvoline) and their filter (WIX) myself. Just get the proper filter that will fit the filter. It is money well spent.
This is the easiest oil change you will ever make. I find about 4.8 quarts of oil is what is required.
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A rubber gasket would almost certainly break. The gasket is actually what is called a "crush gasket" and would be made of copper or a nylon substance. As I recall the one on mine was nylon in appearance and as I said I have never changed one in my life. I've never had a leak either.
The gasket on the oil filter is always with the oil filter. The distinction is that most aftermarket filters come with a round rectangular or square gasket that goes into the groove. The "danger" comes in that they sometimes slip out of the groove and stay affixed to the gasket surface on the engine oil filter assembly. So you have to watch out for that rare occurrence. That could cause a leak and in any event you don't want two gaskets there. When the filter is tightened down and it usually is about 1/2 turn hand tightened once contact is made. On the factory version and some after market filters the gasket is a round gasket that is more securely affixed to the filter and almost never would come out of the groove it is in. That's the advantage. In any event, if either is put on properly and care is taken to ensure that the old gasket is not left in place, usually in haste, it will make no difference. When you put the new oil filter on take some fresh oil and run it around on the new gasket surface. And when the old filter is off check to see if the gasket on it is still in place. Then you are good to go. I also prefill the filter with new oil so it won't take that long for it to fill without full oil pressure although in truth I doubt it really makes much difference. The filter is virtually vertical so little if any oil will drip out of the new filter. The oils of today are super good. You really, really, really have to work to tear up an engine today.
Sorry, that is 100% incorrect. As mentioned, you can change at anytime. Many manufactures are even putting synthetic in the engine's when they roll off the assembly line.
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falsity!
Sorry but that is completely incorrect. Feel free to Google for more info on this.
One of the main benefits of synth is that the detergents don't break down as quickly as in dino oil, that is, the maintain a more even cleaning ability. This is the reason for the extended change periods. An engine does not need to be a performance engine to benefit from using synth oil.
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Using synthetic isn't necessary, but can be beneficial. It resists thermal breakdown & shearing, and won't leave deposits in your engine that conventional oils do, especially during long drain intervals & high heat. It won't sludge or coke, and flows better when cold.
Don't worry about waiting to switch over - more and more manufacturers are filling cars with synthetic oil at the factory, and there's nothing special about the rings or bearings on some of them. Yes, a Corvette or Porsche 911 will have more 'robust' internals than a Koup, but break-in on modern engines has been reduced to nearly nothing compared to 20 - 30 years ago, when nobody was filling cars with syn at the factory.
The only time you need to wait to switch is when you have an engine rebuilt. They guys at an engine shop will suggest you wait 5000 - 10,000 miles before putting synth in an engine that's bottom end or cylinder work done.
Don't worry about waiting to switch over - more and more manufacturers are filling cars with synthetic oil at the factory, and there's nothing special about the rings or bearings on some of them. Yes, a Corvette or Porsche 911 will have more 'robust' internals than a Koup, but break-in on modern engines has been reduced to nearly nothing compared to 20 - 30 years ago, when nobody was filling cars with syn at the factory.
The only time you need to wait to switch is when you have an engine rebuilt. They guys at an engine shop will suggest you wait 5000 - 10,000 miles before putting synth in an engine that's bottom end or cylinder work done.
wellllll... I now have just over 5k on the forte and haven't changed the oil yet. I'm going to within the next few days. I'm not sure what kind of oil came from the factory, but it seems to have gotten dirty quickly. it's much darker in color and the engine is slightly more noisy. it's a mix of city and highway, though, I'd say slightly more city and I can't imagine what it would be like at the 7500 mark. I've had the car 6 months now and I'm very pleased with it overall. it's what I expect for the class of vehicle. it does lack low end power, so jumping out into traffic from a stop is a bit of a task. city driving is great b/c it's "zippy", but that's only between stop signs! also, I find the highway ride slightly jolty even with small bumps. anyway, I'm very pleased with the car.... I was wondering about the valves needing adjusted at a certain point? the dealer game me an absurd "preferred mainenance schedule", which mentions the valves needing checked or adjusted, but I don't recall the manufacturer book mentioning it? does anyone have any infor? thanks!
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"engine is getting noisy" are you getting low on oil?
I change mine every 5000km
If you think your valves are noisy, you could try a timing adjustment
I change mine every 5000km
If you think your valves are noisy, you could try a timing adjustment
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