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finally time to do brakes

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15K views 195 replies 16 participants last post by  walter1982  
#1 ·
My 2020 Forte EX finally needs new brakes. I am at 75k, and I like to think since I brake gently and from far away, my pads and rotors have lasted this long. Is that long? I don't know. How long do pads and rotors usually last?

Well the left front rotor is occasionally making a squeaking/grinding noise when I drive. How do brakes make a noise while driving, while not pressing on the brakes? I understand that when pads are getting worn and you hear the squeaking when using the brakes, but if the caliper isn't being pressed against the rotor, how is it making noise? Is there something stuck in between the pad and rotor? perhaps sand? I notice sometimes other cars on the road make similar noises while driving.

My rotors are also warped. There's a noticeable vibration when braking slightly hard at higher speeds.

Like many other owners, I also feel like these brakes are underpowered. I have had the car since 1800 miles, how did my brakes warp? I have always braked gently. I also torque my lug nuts everytime the wheels come on or off, whether by me or at the dealership. I also drive in Miami, perhaps they overheated?

I recently learned how to do my own oil changes, and various other easy tasks like battery replacement.

I'd like to do my own brakes as well. Is it possible to replace rotors, calipers, and pads without draining the brake fluid?

I've read about many Kia owners installing brakes that are slightly larger than OEM brakes.

This sounds intriguing, and it raises many questions.

Since I drive in Miami, where the majority of the population seem to have a learning disability when it comes to the fundamentals of driving, I would like larger brakes. Down here you don't really need speed or horsepower, you need safety, stopping power. I drive for a living (30k - 35k miles a year) and would like larger, better brakes. Since I would be doing my own brakes, I'll save a lot of money on labor costs, perhaps I can put some of those savings towards brakes substantially better than OEM brakes.

I am thinking that if I have larger rotors, they will be less likely to warp, since the heat will have more rotor surface area to spread out over. Also, if I get larger rotors, and larger calipers (more pistons) it will take less effort to stop the car, therefore reducing the amount of heat created thru friction, right?

There are some clear benefits however, there are drawbacks as well.

Larger rotors and calipers mean extra weight. Is this a deal breaker? Will the extra weight reduce my cars performance? Will my engine have to work harder to get these larger rotors spinning from a stop? Will it have to work harder to keep them spinning? Does this mean higher RPMs or higher gas usage? I'm not sure. Perhaps larger rotors made from better materials, lighter materials, won't be much heavier to be of concern.

Will larger calipers even fit on a 2020 Kia Forte EX? Will the caliper hit the rim?

Also, what do I do with rear brakes? Am I also needing to upgrade rear brakes, with higher quality parts like the fronts? Or do I simply replace rears with regular OEM parts?

If I don't upgrade the rears, does it mean the fronts will have to work harder to bring the car to a stop, which means they will wear prematurely?

Perhaps if I'm upgrading fronts I should upgrade rears as well.

In some of the videos I'm watching these guys are also upgrading the brake lines.

While I do want better brakes, I also will be learning how to do this myself for the first time ever. I don't want to over complicate anything.

I hope I don't have to do anything with the master cylinder, I would also rather avoid bleeding the system, but perhaps if you're getting upgraded brakes it may be wise to put in fresh brake fluid?

There are so many thoughts and concerns to consider.

As it is, I will have to purchase a hydraulic lift, and also 4 stands.


Whether I get OEM rotors or larger rotors, I will get cryo treated rotors, to further prevent warping. It would be nice if the next set of rotors last the life of the car, perhaps over 100k miles. I will not be getting cross drilled or slotted rotors, as I am not convinced it will benefit me in any way. This is simply a daily driver, however some days I'll drive over 200 miles, some of it on highway, and some of it in bumper to bumper traffic on Miami's very hot highways. I've read the cross drilled and slotted rotors wear out brake pads quickly. In any case, I don't think I need them.

Here's one of the youtube videos I found that makes it seem easy.


And here's a video of my current squeaky brakes.

Thank you for your input!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Brake pads, calipers, rotors, fluid are easy DIY.

One doesn't have to drain/flush brake fluid. Just remove caliper/slide open like a (trash can lid) motion. Loosen one caliper bolt remove the other matching bolt. If calipers/braking system are working, you should have enough room to remove/install brake pads. Might need to manually push in caliper bore back in enough for some more space to accommodate thicker/new pads. Use the old pad as a brace. Use a hand wrench, hammer handle (HANDLE NOT HEAD), something that can be used as a push/fulcrum implementation, a large C clamp can be used. Just something hard to help push the piston back in enough for some room if needed.

As for the fluid, if it's still usable/clean then no need to change fluid. Change if needed. Can leave the reservoir cap/lid on or can remove. If cap/lid removed wrap a towel/rag to capture the fluid that flows out, refill back to level if needed.

Bigger brakes/calipers means more force the car needs to produce to move the heavier than oem mass/inertia.

Slot/drilled rotors really don't help daily driven vehicles, distance doesn't matter. Those benefit race cars, auto cross, X racing, speed/time attacks, high speed racing on smooth surfaces. Cheap one will warp, develop hairline craks/fractures at the drilled holes/warp faster than solid surfaced rotors & means less braking material/contact surface for pads. They do wear/eat pads depending on use, quality build/material. If buying them, don't cheap out.

Gring/metal scraping with brakes engaged & not being used for stopping means it's the wheel hub bearing. Ball bearings inside a metal enclosed ring are not 100% round, they're grinding/filing down, pitting like a golf ball. Think of sand in your mouth & grinding/crunching on your teeth. Not good.

Jack up vehicle, hold/grab wheel/tire or rotor at 12 & 6 O'clock. Try to move up/down, then grab at 9 & 3 O'clock & do the same. There should never be any free play/movement, wiggle. If there is, replace rotor or wheel hub/bearing. Wheel Hubs are sold as a complete unit. It's all one piece.

If DIY, take before middle & after pics. State where & how much parts.

It helps the forteforums community
 
#7 ·
I will have to figure out how and where to look for the wear indicators. Is that something I have to remove the wheel to do? 75k is early for a wheel bearing considering I drive gently, I steer gently and never accelerate while steering. They are expensive so hopefully it's just the pads.
 
#6 ·
If you've not done a certain repair procedure before, take a lot of pictures.
I live in south Alabama, and will change brake fluid in my motorcycles every 2 years. Our Kia, 3-4 years. The reason is this horrible humidity which contaminates brake fluid. Causes corrosion of expensive metal parts.

I think you probably can't modify rotor or caliper sizes. It is possible to use different pads, maybe some provide more friction. Only so much disc will fit in those wheels.

Also, it's probably not cost effective to have rotors "turned" any more. Most DIYers just buy new ones. You can go to rockauto.com for example, and buy a rotor & pad kit.

As your car is 3 or 4 years old, and 75k miles, and living in FL, I would consider flushing brake fluid.

Jacking up these cars is a pain. There is no central point to lift the entire front or back. I often think of getting a second hydraulic floor jack.
 
#16 ·
Hi Everybody! My brakes keep making weird grinding noises, EVEN THOUGH there are no grind marks on the rotor. Weird. Anyways, I need suggestions for rotor and pad companies that people are very happy with. The OEM brakes lasted about 80,000 miles for me, and I think the last 30,000 miles they were warped.

What is a good brand for cryo-treated rotors? I am willing to spend a few extra bucks on rotors that will be less likely to warp.

And what do you guys like for brake pads? I need relatively good stopping power. However I don't want them to wear out too quick, and I don't care about brake dust either.

Also, is this the right service manual?

Kia Forte - Front Disc Brake - Brake System


Thank you!
 
#17 ·
Hi Everybody! My brakes keep making weird grinding noises, EVEN THOUGH there are no grind marks on the rotor. Weird. Anyways, I need suggestions for rotor and pad companies that people are very happy with. The OEM brakes lasted about 80,000 miles for me, and I think the last 30,000 miles they were warped.

What is a good brand for cryo-treated rotors? I am willing to spend a few extra bucks on rotors that will be less likely to warp.

And what do you guys like for brake pads? I need relatively good stopping power. However I don't want them to wear out too quick, and I don't care about brake dust either.

Also, is this the right service manual?

Kia Forte - Front Disc Brake - Brake System


Thank you!
Yep! :)

Image
 
#22 ·
The dealership wants almost $1200 for rotors and pads front and back.

I am thinking of getting these rotors and pads.

New rotors and pads are a lot cheaper then that if you do it yourself!!!
 
#23 ·
I just recently learned how to do oil changes and now I'm doing brakes for the first time. I've got the service manual and I think I've got all the necessary tools, I just have to go to Harbor Freight for a hydraulic jack and some stands, and I think Harbor Freight has a $10 tool that will push the piston back.
 
#41 ·
Allright it's finally time to do my brakes. I am at 105,000 miles, and I have rotors and pads ready to go, they have been sitting in my closet since FEBRUARY, because I have been procrastinating the hell out of finally doing this. I have also spent quite a bit of time reading about how to do this, the pads and rotors and bleeding. I really want to avoid doing this improperly and end up having problems while driving. I want to do this like a pro, like I do all my oil changes.

I've spent some time reading about this and watching several videos on youtube. I also have the service manual at KiForte.com for the front brakes, rear brakes, and bleeding.

As far as installing the hardware, it seems simple enough. However it's my first time doing brakes and sometimes when you have no experience, and you run into an issue that you can't solve on your own. I also want to bleed the brake fluid, since I'm putting in new rotors and pads, and I'm at 105,000 miles, and I live in SE Florida, where it's super humid.

I have the service manual for the front brakes, but the rear brakes seem a bit more complicated because there's some extra hardware due to the parking brake.

Also, the service manual states to "reset" the parking brake after installing new rotors. I'm not sure what that means, I have to figure that out before attempting this procedure.



I spent a lot of time reading about the differences between dot 3 and dot 4 fluid. Apparently one of them is better at resisting moisture, but will not last as long as the other one. I spent so much time reading about this I don't even remember most of it. I will most likely go with the fluid that resists moisture better but you have to replace the fluid more often. I think it was dot 4. Again, I live near Miami, and I drive a lot, about 30,000 miles a year. I spend lots of time sitting in hot and heavy traffic, while also sometimes driving fast on the highway for example. I have found that here in South Florida, a large portion of the population seems to have a learning disability when it comes to navigating the streets. I have concluded that I need upgraded brakes, which is why I got premium pads and rotors that were cryogenically treated, in order to resist heat damage (warping). My OEM rotors warped rather soon, around 40k to 50k miles. I'm not sure how, I have always driven this car gently. I have a suspicion that dealers and mechanics would over-torque my lug nuts, resulting in warped rotors. It wasn't until about 1.5 years ago, when the car had like 70,000 miles that I started doing all my own oil changes and tire rotations, and since then I have been torquing my wheels often. In any case, driving around here you really need stopping power more than horsepower. I hope that these rotors and pads last at least 80,000 miles.

My concern with the bleeding procedure is they say you cannot allow any moisture to get into the system, so I can't leave the cap off the brake fluid reservoir or I risk letting moisture in?

Here is my service manual for bleeding brakes


What I don't understand about the procedure is towards the bottom it seems like it instructs you to hook up some sort of software to the car, something called a KDS?

Does this mean I cannot bleed the brakes without this software?

I also need to buy that plastic bottle with the magnet to make the process easier.

The other question I have is which parts of the brake hardware do I need to lubricate? I have read to lubricate certain hardware and to also lubricate the brake pads themselves? I have read that you also lubricate the piston, so it doesn't stick while driving? I need to clarify this before attempting this procedure.

So far I have ordered a high temperature brake lubricant, the hooks to hook the caliper on the spring, and that brake pad spreader clamp. Do I need 4 of those clamps, or is 1 sufficient? Also, do I need 4 hooks? I suppose when I bleed the brakes, all 4 calipers will be removed at the same time, right? If I need 4 hooks I'll probably need 4 of those clamps? I still have to order the brake fluid as well. Gosh this is starting to get pricey. Are you guys sure it's cheaper to do it yourself lol?

This seems overwhelming at first. That's why I want to make sure I have everything ready to go when I finally do this. I still have more studying to do. I don't want to wind up in a situation where I have to put everything back on and go to the dealership, or call a mobile mechanic. I really want to do this myself. I know it's a lot of questions and NO, I am not overthinking this.

This channel seems very helpful. (youcanic)






 
#45 ·
It makes absolutely NO SENSE that the owners manual says Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid!
Everything you read about brake fluid says Dot 4 absorbs moisture 20% faster then Dot 3 - so why not just require Dot 3?!?!
 
#44 ·
I’ve never had to use anything to hang the calipers there’s plenty of places to prop them up. Or use a jack stand. You should definitely lubricate the slider pins for sure alongside the back of the pads and the mounting clips.

YouTube is an excellent resource. Once you do it once it’ll become like riding a bike. I’ve done so many brake jobs after that first one I’ve lost count.
 
#46 ·
I recommend getting speed bleeders for your DIY brake job, especially if you are doing it by yourself. A perfect bleed everytime and you get firm brake pedal feel. Just make sure you don't completely empty the brake master cylinder. Bleed the calipers until you reach the low fill line in the BMC and top off.
 
#47 ·
I recommend getting speed bleeders for your DIY brake job, especially if you are doing it by yourself. A perfect bleed everytime and you get firm brake pedal feel. Just make sure you don't completely empty the brake master cylinder. Bleed the calipers until you reach the low fill line in the BMC and top off.
but what if I'm switching to a different DOT than was in the BMC?
 
#59 ·
I recommend getting speed bleeders for your DIY brake job, especially if you are doing it by yourself. A perfect bleed everytime and you get firm brake pedal feel. Just make sure you don't completely empty the brake master cylinder. Bleed the calipers until you reach the low fill line in the BMC and top off.
Hi hamster. These bleeders you recommended, are these the right ones for a 2020 Kia Forte EX Nu?