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finally time to do brakes

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15K views 195 replies 16 participants last post by  walter1982  
#1 ·
My 2020 Forte EX finally needs new brakes. I am at 75k, and I like to think since I brake gently and from far away, my pads and rotors have lasted this long. Is that long? I don't know. How long do pads and rotors usually last?

Well the left front rotor is occasionally making a squeaking/grinding noise when I drive. How do brakes make a noise while driving, while not pressing on the brakes? I understand that when pads are getting worn and you hear the squeaking when using the brakes, but if the caliper isn't being pressed against the rotor, how is it making noise? Is there something stuck in between the pad and rotor? perhaps sand? I notice sometimes other cars on the road make similar noises while driving.

My rotors are also warped. There's a noticeable vibration when braking slightly hard at higher speeds.

Like many other owners, I also feel like these brakes are underpowered. I have had the car since 1800 miles, how did my brakes warp? I have always braked gently. I also torque my lug nuts everytime the wheels come on or off, whether by me or at the dealership. I also drive in Miami, perhaps they overheated?

I recently learned how to do my own oil changes, and various other easy tasks like battery replacement.

I'd like to do my own brakes as well. Is it possible to replace rotors, calipers, and pads without draining the brake fluid?

I've read about many Kia owners installing brakes that are slightly larger than OEM brakes.

This sounds intriguing, and it raises many questions.

Since I drive in Miami, where the majority of the population seem to have a learning disability when it comes to the fundamentals of driving, I would like larger brakes. Down here you don't really need speed or horsepower, you need safety, stopping power. I drive for a living (30k - 35k miles a year) and would like larger, better brakes. Since I would be doing my own brakes, I'll save a lot of money on labor costs, perhaps I can put some of those savings towards brakes substantially better than OEM brakes.

I am thinking that if I have larger rotors, they will be less likely to warp, since the heat will have more rotor surface area to spread out over. Also, if I get larger rotors, and larger calipers (more pistons) it will take less effort to stop the car, therefore reducing the amount of heat created thru friction, right?

There are some clear benefits however, there are drawbacks as well.

Larger rotors and calipers mean extra weight. Is this a deal breaker? Will the extra weight reduce my cars performance? Will my engine have to work harder to get these larger rotors spinning from a stop? Will it have to work harder to keep them spinning? Does this mean higher RPMs or higher gas usage? I'm not sure. Perhaps larger rotors made from better materials, lighter materials, won't be much heavier to be of concern.

Will larger calipers even fit on a 2020 Kia Forte EX? Will the caliper hit the rim?

Also, what do I do with rear brakes? Am I also needing to upgrade rear brakes, with higher quality parts like the fronts? Or do I simply replace rears with regular OEM parts?

If I don't upgrade the rears, does it mean the fronts will have to work harder to bring the car to a stop, which means they will wear prematurely?

Perhaps if I'm upgrading fronts I should upgrade rears as well.

In some of the videos I'm watching these guys are also upgrading the brake lines.

While I do want better brakes, I also will be learning how to do this myself for the first time ever. I don't want to over complicate anything.

I hope I don't have to do anything with the master cylinder, I would also rather avoid bleeding the system, but perhaps if you're getting upgraded brakes it may be wise to put in fresh brake fluid?

There are so many thoughts and concerns to consider.

As it is, I will have to purchase a hydraulic lift, and also 4 stands.


Whether I get OEM rotors or larger rotors, I will get cryo treated rotors, to further prevent warping. It would be nice if the next set of rotors last the life of the car, perhaps over 100k miles. I will not be getting cross drilled or slotted rotors, as I am not convinced it will benefit me in any way. This is simply a daily driver, however some days I'll drive over 200 miles, some of it on highway, and some of it in bumper to bumper traffic on Miami's very hot highways. I've read the cross drilled and slotted rotors wear out brake pads quickly. In any case, I don't think I need them.

Here's one of the youtube videos I found that makes it seem easy.


And here's a video of my current squeaky brakes.

Thank you for your input!
 
#52 · (Edited)
Better to ask than not ask.

One doesn't need to have an OBD2 scanner hooked to do the brakes. That's for when the hydraulic ABS unit assembly is completely removed for replacement/service & or needs to be calibrated/air completely removed from braking system.

Just start at the farthest real wheel from the master brake booster & work your way to the front wheel. I've done this & have never had any problems. Just had an assistant pump the brakes. Keep an eye & pay attention to the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the fluid at full line or close to full (don't suck in air) as the old fluid it pumped out.

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DON'T USE OBD2 SCANNER/PLAY AROUND WITH HYDRAULIC ABS UNIT ASSEMBLY & ITS SETTINGS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!
 
#55 ·
For the electronic device used in brake bleeding, on motorcycles you hook it up to open the valves in the abs unit so bleeding removes the old fluid from the abs pump. I never did that, just bled the brakes as usual, then took it out and jammed on the brakes on gravel to trigger the abs to get some new fluid mixed into the pump. Guessing a car abs unit is functionally the same. Never had a problem not using the tool to instruct the valves to open.
 
#56 · (Edited)
Does anyone know, where to lubricate the piston, so it doesn't stick while driving?

I spent a lot of time on amazon finding a good brake lubricant. This is the one I got.




And also which parts of the brake pads to lubricate? I keep seeing videos on youtube mention to lubricate the long flat side of the pads.

I am installing new rotors and pads however I'd like to clean the caliper assembly very thoroughly. I've never done this before so I'm asking lots of stupid questions.

When people clean their brakes using brake cleaner, do you need any brushes or anything? Is the brake cleaner like a detergent? Do I spray on the brake cleaner and then scrub everything with a brush? Or simply spray and rinse?

I'm using this video for reference, and also this one.


 
#58 ·
What is a good method to clamp down the brake line after disconnecting the caliper? I'm guessing that as soon as I remove the hose from the caliper brake fluid will leak out? I'm putting on new pads and rotors, however I want to bleed the system afterwards as well. I also would like to remove the calipers to take apart the piston and clean the piston and seals. I'm very ambitious. I've read that there is a metal mesh inside the brake hose and if you clamp it down incorrectly you can damage that mesh?

Again forgive me for asking ignorant questions.

What is the best order to do this in?

Should I first put on new pads and rotors, THEN bleed the system?

What I'd like to do is remove the caliper to take it apart and use brake cleaner on it to make it look new, possibly sand down any rust on the areas where the pads will slide back and forth on. When I have the caliper put back together, do I then re-attach the brake hose to bleed the system?

Should I get this brake bleeder kit?

Amazon.com : brake bleeder kit

Thank you for your patience, I know I'm getting annoying. The first time doing these procedures is overwhelming.
 
#60 ·
I'm trying to figure out, if I'm bleeding the system, will there be old fluid left somewhere in the ABS lines? Do I need a scan tool to put the car in bleed mode so the ABS lines get bled as well?

If I bleed the car and fill it with DOT4, there may be DOT3 left over in the ABS system?
 
#61 ·
I'm trying to figure out, if I'm bleeding the system, will there be old fluid left somewhere in the ABS lines? Do I need a scan tool to put the car in bleed mode so the ABS lines get bled as well?

If I bleed the car and fill it with DOT4, there may be DOT3 left over in the ABS system?

I just realized that the parts guy gave me DOT 4 - Not DOT 3! He said they only have DOT 3 and I bought it from him - when I took the picture today I realized it is DOT 4!

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Yes you'll have some old fluid in the ABS system if you don't open the valves. Just bleed the brakes in the order posted by Mobileterminaluser in post #54 above.
 
#66 ·
I suppose you're right. At 112k miles I am still driving on stock rotors, and the factory installed brake fluid. Let's say I leave the calipers alone. What is the consensus on upgrading from DOT3 to DOT4 without bleeding the ABS lines?
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#65 ·
Here's a few replies from the old men at BITOG:

"I think you are way overthinking this brake job. I've been doing my own brake jobs for probably 30 years and never do most of what you are planning on doing. First of all, a KDS scanner is Kia's factory scan tool, and you don't need it to bleed the ABS system. A lot of aftermarket higher end scan tools can do it. With that being said, I have never had to bleed the ABS systems on any of my vehicles during a routine brake job. If you let air in the system or let the master cylinder, go dry during a bleed, then you will probably have to have a scan tool to bleed the ABS system.
Those Mityvac vacuum bleeders usually work well and is what I have used for years but I had a couple of instances where I had a brake line blow out and after the repair, the vacuum bleed method did not work. I had to have someone help me bleed the system by pumping the brakes as I opened the bleeder. I now use a pressure bleeder which is so much easier and faster.
I would not be removing the caliper pistons, seals, or brake lines if not necessary. You can end up with more problems than you want. "

"
I bought a Motive pressure brake bleeder and Speed Bleeders. I originally bought the Speed Bleeders so I would have SS brake bleeders. I ended up just using the Speed Bleeders and the Motive is unused in the box. It was so easy to bleed with the brake pedal and Speed Bleeders that I never needed to do anything more.
I would not pull the pistons out of the calipers unless you have new seals and boots just in case you damage them when removing the pistons.
You will need to stop the brake line from dripping once you remove the caliper. I am not a fan on clamping the rubber part to stop the dripping.
Some brake lubricants will swell rubber boots even though they are labeled as disc brake lubricants.
A shop will not mess with the caliper if the pistons go back in easily.
Some manuals specify to replace the bolts that hold the caliper bracket. Most shade tree mechanics probably just use some thread locking compound.
A pro might have a sand blasting cabinet to clean the rust off the caliper bracket. Otherwise a square brake file to clean up the area under the SS clips. "
 
#68 ·
If it's true that you can mix DOT3 and DOT4 then I can finally go ahead and do this job. My concern with old fluid left in the ABS was the final step holding me back from devoting an entire weekend to this job. Although, I still feel weird mixing brand new LiquiMoly DOT4 with old-ass KIA DOT3. Not gonna lie, I don't like it. I hope it's not a big deal. I suppose, there can't be much fluid in the ABS lines, so by replacing as much of the old fluid as I can it will be better than leaving all the old fluid in there and not doing a bleed at all... Does that make sense LOL? I am thinking of a similar scenario, where you drain all the CVT fluid, but there's still some old fluid left somewhere in the valves, so you have to do multiple CVT drains in order to replace as much fluid as possible, because, apparently, doing just one drain will not get out ALL of the old fluid.
 
#76 ·
The parts diagrams on the kia parts website are a bit confusing regarding the number of bolts needed. Each caliper requires 2 black guide rod bolts, which screw into the guide rods, and do not have a washer.

Each caliper also requires 2 silver mounting bolts, that DO have a locking washer, which are used to mount the caliper to the hub assembly.

But the parts diagrams show that FOUR of each bolt are required. This is very confusing.

The parts diagrams also seem to have the wrong quantity for a few other parts, such as piston boot and seal. It shows you need 2 boots and seals. What gives? Am I reading this incorrectly? Unless they are implying this is the number of parts you need for TWO CALIPERS, NOT ONE? That is the only logical explanation I have. Because the parts diagram only shows one caliper.

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#77 ·
On another important update, I have been trying to figure out the proper lubricants to use on my brakes because there is a lot of disagreement on this topic in the engineering community.

A lot of popular youtubers like ChrisFix recommend copper anti seize for the brake pad tabs/ears.

I actually reached out to Permatex and asked one of their engineers and they said it's not really the best application for an anti seize product. He recommended to use Permatex Silicone Brake parts lubricant or the Silicon Ceramics Extreme lubricant.

I've been watching a lot of youtube videos on brakes and quite frankly, you need to have a discerning eye to only pick up the beneficial information, because at this point, I have learned enough about brakes that I can point out substandard work in many of these videos.

This ChrisFix video is very good in how to properly do a brake job and where to lubricate brakes. However, he's working on an old Jaguar, and in this video, his brakes do not have any brake hardware. That's why his brake pad ears are sliding back and forth on the metal of the caliper bracket.

Whereas our Kia Forte come with 2 types of brake hardware, there is a tension spring, and a metal bracket that pops into the caliper bracket.

This is a picture of the area from ChrisFix video.

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This is a picture of the Kia Forte caliper bracket. As you can see the brake pad slides and back forth in these polished metal bracket. On another note, the gentleman who make the Kia Forte video, did not put the tension spring back on the pads before completing the job. Early in the video he showed how he removed the tension spring, but he did not put it back upon assembly. That's why I said you have to have a discerning eye when taking things into consideration.

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So for the Forte caliper bracket, you don't need an anti seize, a silicone brake lubricant will be sufficient.


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So the 3 areas where I will apply this lubricant is the pad ears (on the metal bracket/brake hardware bracek), the back of the pads where the piston touches, and the guide rods.

I'm just thinking out loud guys. I like to go over stuff multiple times before starting the procedure.
 
#78 ·
Gdammnit! I just found out there is a fitment issue with the rear pads tabs being too big to fit into the pad bracket.

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The pad ears on the REAR brake pads are bigger than the ones on the FRONT pads. WTF !

The fitment on the front pad bracket isn't perfect but it may work once I push it in.

But the rear pad tabs are far too wide for the rear pad brackets.

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Omg man what a disappointment.

I hope the company will be able to replace the pads for me, I ordered them about a year ago. :(:(:(:(:(:(:(
 
#79 ·
Gdammnit! I just found out there is a fitment issue with the rear pads tabs being too big to fit into the pad bracket.

View attachment 99153

View attachment 99154


The pad ears on the REAR brake pads are bigger than the ones on the FRONT pads. WTF !

The fitment on the front pad bracket isn't perfect but it may work once I push it in.

But the rear pad tabs are far too wide for the rear pad brackets.

View attachment 99155

View attachment 99156

Omg man what a disappointment.

I hope the company will be able to replace the pads for me, I ordered them about a year ago. :(:(:(:(:(:(:(
that sucks. Fingers crossed they will just send you new brackets.
 
#88 ·
#89 ·
The Porterfield brake pads I ordered did not come with any hardware. However I was planning on buying new brake hardware anyways. The 4 brackets and 4 springs was pretty cheap.

I've been going over everything over and over to make sure I've got everything I need to execute this job properly. This brake job is far more complex than anything else I've done on the car and I'm trying to make sure I've got all the bases covered. Lord knows I've watched enough videos on youtube and spent enough time at Reddit forums. The last place I need to get peoples opinions will be at BobIsTheOilGuy. I usually get more exposure there than I do here, since they have far more members and are not limited to just Kia guys.

I had an email exchange with a representative at Permatex and he said not to use copper anti seize anywhere on the brakes. Initially youtube star ChrisFix said to use copper antiseize on the pad ears but I've decided against it. The Permatex rep said to use silicone ceramic extreme on the 3 places we need to lubricate brakes (pad ears, back of pads, and glide bolts).

The only other thing I need to order are the mounting bolts for the calipers, since those bolts come with locking washers, and those should only be torqued once. Upon removal new washers must be put in, because it's going on a part that vibrates often. It was the same philosophy with the engine/trans mount bolts. The locking washers do not retain their original shape upon removal therefore new ones must be use.

Brakes are an extremely important component and I need to ensure they do not malfunction as I try to survive the streets of SE Florida.

The last crucial step I need to figure out is in regards to bleeding the brake fluid. Since I'm planning on removing the calipers, to clean them thoroughly and put in new boots and seals for the piston.

My question is, WHEN do I bleed the system?

Should I first remove the calipers, clean them, then reinstall them, THEN bleed the system?

Or, do I first bleed the system with fresh fluid, THEN remove and clean and reinstall calipers?

What order should I do it in?

Also, I would rather not CLAMP on the brake lines, even though so many mechanics do. I would rather find something to PLUG the brake line, instead of clamping down on it, since that can result in damaging the brake line, apparently the interior of brake lines is reinforced with a stainless steel wire mesh, so when you clamp down on it, it may not return to it's original shape, potentially causing problems.

I have procrastinated this job due to anxiety for so long that I can't wait any longer. I really need to put on new brakes.

Yes, I know I'm overthinking this.

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#91 ·
Does anyone know if these caliper mounting bolts come with the washer? Because in the parts website it seems the washers are also sold separately ? If I buy these bolts, will they come with the washer?

so this way, I would be bleeding old fluid into the caliper after mounting it? Is that ok?
 
#92 ·
Can anyone confirm that that mounting bolt comes with the washer? I noticed they sell a bag of the washers separately. I just want to make sure the bolts come with a washer.

Also, I believe there are only 2 caliper mounting bolts per caliper, so I need 8 altogether. The other 2 bolts on the caliper are the guide pin bolts, which are not supposed to have washers.

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