Kia Forte Forum banner
41 - 60 of 196 Posts
Discussion starter · #41 ·
Allright it's finally time to do my brakes. I am at 105,000 miles, and I have rotors and pads ready to go, they have been sitting in my closet since FEBRUARY, because I have been procrastinating the hell out of finally doing this. I have also spent quite a bit of time reading about how to do this, the pads and rotors and bleeding. I really want to avoid doing this improperly and end up having problems while driving. I want to do this like a pro, like I do all my oil changes.

I've spent some time reading about this and watching several videos on youtube. I also have the service manual at KiForte.com for the front brakes, rear brakes, and bleeding.

As far as installing the hardware, it seems simple enough. However it's my first time doing brakes and sometimes when you have no experience, and you run into an issue that you can't solve on your own. I also want to bleed the brake fluid, since I'm putting in new rotors and pads, and I'm at 105,000 miles, and I live in SE Florida, where it's super humid.

I have the service manual for the front brakes, but the rear brakes seem a bit more complicated because there's some extra hardware due to the parking brake.

Also, the service manual states to "reset" the parking brake after installing new rotors. I'm not sure what that means, I have to figure that out before attempting this procedure.



I spent a lot of time reading about the differences between dot 3 and dot 4 fluid. Apparently one of them is better at resisting moisture, but will not last as long as the other one. I spent so much time reading about this I don't even remember most of it. I will most likely go with the fluid that resists moisture better but you have to replace the fluid more often. I think it was dot 4. Again, I live near Miami, and I drive a lot, about 30,000 miles a year. I spend lots of time sitting in hot and heavy traffic, while also sometimes driving fast on the highway for example. I have found that here in South Florida, a large portion of the population seems to have a learning disability when it comes to navigating the streets. I have concluded that I need upgraded brakes, which is why I got premium pads and rotors that were cryogenically treated, in order to resist heat damage (warping). My OEM rotors warped rather soon, around 40k to 50k miles. I'm not sure how, I have always driven this car gently. I have a suspicion that dealers and mechanics would over-torque my lug nuts, resulting in warped rotors. It wasn't until about 1.5 years ago, when the car had like 70,000 miles that I started doing all my own oil changes and tire rotations, and since then I have been torquing my wheels often. In any case, driving around here you really need stopping power more than horsepower. I hope that these rotors and pads last at least 80,000 miles.

My concern with the bleeding procedure is they say you cannot allow any moisture to get into the system, so I can't leave the cap off the brake fluid reservoir or I risk letting moisture in?

Here is my service manual for bleeding brakes


What I don't understand about the procedure is towards the bottom it seems like it instructs you to hook up some sort of software to the car, something called a KDS?

Does this mean I cannot bleed the brakes without this software?

I also need to buy that plastic bottle with the magnet to make the process easier.

The other question I have is which parts of the brake hardware do I need to lubricate? I have read to lubricate certain hardware and to also lubricate the brake pads themselves? I have read that you also lubricate the piston, so it doesn't stick while driving? I need to clarify this before attempting this procedure.

So far I have ordered a high temperature brake lubricant, the hooks to hook the caliper on the spring, and that brake pad spreader clamp. Do I need 4 of those clamps, or is 1 sufficient? Also, do I need 4 hooks? I suppose when I bleed the brakes, all 4 calipers will be removed at the same time, right? If I need 4 hooks I'll probably need 4 of those clamps? I still have to order the brake fluid as well. Gosh this is starting to get pricey. Are you guys sure it's cheaper to do it yourself lol?

This seems overwhelming at first. That's why I want to make sure I have everything ready to go when I finally do this. I still have more studying to do. I don't want to wind up in a situation where I have to put everything back on and go to the dealership, or call a mobile mechanic. I really want to do this myself. I know it's a lot of questions and NO, I am not overthinking this.

This channel seems very helpful. (youcanic)






 
I’ve never had to use anything to hang the calipers there’s plenty of places to prop them up. Or use a jack stand. You should definitely lubricate the slider pins for sure alongside the back of the pads and the mounting clips.

YouTube is an excellent resource. Once you do it once it’ll become like riding a bike. I’ve done so many brake jobs after that first one I’ve lost count.
 
I would use Dot 3 fluid. It lasts longer and absorbs less moisture.
It makes absolutely NO SENSE that the owners manual says Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid!
Everything you read about brake fluid says Dot 4 absorbs moisture 20% faster then Dot 3 - so why not just require Dot 3?!?!
 
I recommend getting speed bleeders for your DIY brake job, especially if you are doing it by yourself. A perfect bleed everytime and you get firm brake pedal feel. Just make sure you don't completely empty the brake master cylinder. Bleed the calipers until you reach the low fill line in the BMC and top off.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
I recommend getting speed bleeders for your DIY brake job, especially if you are doing it by yourself. A perfect bleed everytime and you get firm brake pedal feel. Just make sure you don't completely empty the brake master cylinder. Bleed the calipers until you reach the low fill line in the BMC and top off.
but what if I'm switching to a different DOT than was in the BMC?
 
but what if I'm switching to a different DOT than was in the BMC?
Switching fluid is a preference. Yes, DOT 4 is better at handling heat than 3, but for a street driven car that will probably won't see track time or heavy brake use, not worth it. DOT 3 is better for the street and longer brake flush intervals.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Switching fluid is a preference. Yes, DOT 4 is better at handling heat than 3, but for a street driven car that will probably won't see track time or heavy brake use, not worth it. DOT 3 is better for the street and longer brake flush intervals.
Do I need four of those bleeders or just one to do one at a time?
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Do 4. They replace the stock bleeders.
did you see the service manual for the bleeding procedure? They have some sort of ODB software they hook up to the car to do bleeding? I don't understand it.

Oh and those bleeders get installed? I \thought it was temporary to assist with bleeding. It's my first time so I am asking ignorant questions lol.
 
Better to ask than not ask.

One doesn't need to have an OBD2 scanner hooked to do the brakes. That's for when the hydraulic ABS unit assembly is completely removed for replacement/service & or needs to be calibrated/air completely removed from braking system.

Just start at the farthest real wheel from the master brake booster & work your way to the front wheel. I've done this & have never had any problems. Just had an assistant pump the brakes. Keep an eye & pay attention to the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the fluid at full line or close to full (don't suck in air) as the old fluid it pumped out.

Image
Image





DON'T USE OBD2 SCANNER/PLAY AROUND WITH HYDRAULIC ABS UNIT ASSEMBLY & ITS SETTINGS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!
 
did you see the service manual for the bleeding procedure? They have some sort of ODB software they hook up to the car to do bleeding? I don't understand it.

That looks like it's for the Electronic Stability Control if you were to take that apart.

Oh and those bleeders get installed? I \thought it was temporary to assist with bleeding. It's my first time so I am asking ignorant questions lol.

It assists in bleeding and is used to replace the stock bleeders. It's a permanent solution if you choose to do it that way.
 
For the electronic device used in brake bleeding, on motorcycles you hook it up to open the valves in the abs unit so bleeding removes the old fluid from the abs pump. I never did that, just bled the brakes as usual, then took it out and jammed on the brakes on gravel to trigger the abs to get some new fluid mixed into the pump. Guessing a car abs unit is functionally the same. Never had a problem not using the tool to instruct the valves to open.
 
Discussion starter · #56 · (Edited)
Does anyone know, where to lubricate the piston, so it doesn't stick while driving?

I spent a lot of time on amazon finding a good brake lubricant. This is the one I got.




And also which parts of the brake pads to lubricate? I keep seeing videos on youtube mention to lubricate the long flat side of the pads.

I am installing new rotors and pads however I'd like to clean the caliper assembly very thoroughly. I've never done this before so I'm asking lots of stupid questions.

When people clean their brakes using brake cleaner, do you need any brushes or anything? Is the brake cleaner like a detergent? Do I spray on the brake cleaner and then scrub everything with a brush? Or simply spray and rinse?

I'm using this video for reference, and also this one.


 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Ok I'm almost there. I've got everything I need except brake hardware. I've got all the right lubricants and I ordered brake cleaner as well.

I am having trouble finding the exact brake hardware. I need the sliding part and the springs. Are these the right ones?

Image
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
What is a good method to clamp down the brake line after disconnecting the caliper? I'm guessing that as soon as I remove the hose from the caliper brake fluid will leak out? I'm putting on new pads and rotors, however I want to bleed the system afterwards as well. I also would like to remove the calipers to take apart the piston and clean the piston and seals. I'm very ambitious. I've read that there is a metal mesh inside the brake hose and if you clamp it down incorrectly you can damage that mesh?

Again forgive me for asking ignorant questions.

What is the best order to do this in?

Should I first put on new pads and rotors, THEN bleed the system?

What I'd like to do is remove the caliper to take it apart and use brake cleaner on it to make it look new, possibly sand down any rust on the areas where the pads will slide back and forth on. When I have the caliper put back together, do I then re-attach the brake hose to bleed the system?

Should I get this brake bleeder kit?

Amazon.com : brake bleeder kit

Thank you for your patience, I know I'm getting annoying. The first time doing these procedures is overwhelming.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I recommend getting speed bleeders for your DIY brake job, especially if you are doing it by yourself. A perfect bleed everytime and you get firm brake pedal feel. Just make sure you don't completely empty the brake master cylinder. Bleed the calipers until you reach the low fill line in the BMC and top off.
Hi hamster. These bleeders you recommended, are these the right ones for a 2020 Kia Forte EX Nu?
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
I'm trying to figure out, if I'm bleeding the system, will there be old fluid left somewhere in the ABS lines? Do I need a scan tool to put the car in bleed mode so the ABS lines get bled as well?

If I bleed the car and fill it with DOT4, there may be DOT3 left over in the ABS system?
 
41 - 60 of 196 Posts