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If vehicle is FWD, raise the front engage E brake & set gear in neutral. Chock wheels for added safety

If vehicle is RWD, raise the rear set gear in neutral, disengage E brake, chock the front wheels for added safety

If vehicle is 4x4, select your repair/affected (front or rear) raise affected set gear in neutral, chock unaffected wheels for added safety

If vehicle is FWD manual, raise front engage E brake, set gear in neutral chock rear wheels for added safety

If vehicle is RWD manual, raise the rear disengage E brake set gear in neutral Chock front wheels for added safety

If vehicle is AWD, raise entire vehicle, set gear in neutral
 
Discussion starter · #145 ·
is this the right way to diagnose whether the problem is the brake hose, or the piston?



# 3 have someone push and release the brake pedal . Try to spin the rotor . If it is stuck , remove the bleed screw dust cap & loosen the bleeder screw . If it starts to rotate easy , the brake hose is bad .

If it stays stuck , the caliper is bad & needs replacing .
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
When I call the Kia dealership to ask how much parts are, I have noticed a pattern that the parts are always about exactly TWICE as much as the parts on kiapartsnow.com

$100 for a brake hose at the dealership, $48 at kiapartsnow.com

On top of that the dealership never has these parts in stock, they have to order them and it takes a few days.
 
Discussion starter · #147 ·
I've been reading about how to recondition/rebuild a caliper. It doesn't look too difficult. I read about a cool trick to use a rod or 2x4 to wedge against the brake pedal, to depress the brake pedal about an inch or so, this will prevent brake fluid from leaking out the brake hose when I disconnect it from the caliper.

I think the biggest challenge I face is popping out the piston from the caliper, in the event it's rusty and doesn't want to come out. I don't have an air compressor, obviously, but people have mentioned to use the cars hydraulic system to simply pop the piston out. So I need to remove the caliper and then go press on the brake pedal hard enough to pop out the piston. Does that sound about right?
 
I always just use a pair of appropriately-sized needle-nose pliers to get rear pistons back in.

When dealing with the parking brake/drum setup, it's good to either take a picture, or do 1 side at a time so you can reference the other side.

Make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly too before putting it back together, else you may get some drag or it won't engage fully.
 
Discussion starter · #151 ·
I always just use a pair of appropriately-sized needle-nose pliers to get rear pistons back in.

When dealing with the parking brake/drum setup, it's good to either take a picture, or do 1 side at a time so you can reference the other side.

Make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly too before putting it back together, else you may get some drag or it won't engage fully.
I'm not even touching the shoes, I'm just taking the rotor off and putting on a new one.
 
I've been reading about how to recondition/rebuild a caliper. It doesn't look too difficult. I read about a cool trick to use a rod or 2x4 to wedge against the brake pedal, to depress the brake pedal about an inch or so, this will prevent brake fluid from leaking out the brake hose when I disconnect it from the caliper.

I think the biggest challenge I face is popping out the piston from the caliper, in the event it's rusty and doesn't want to come out. I don't have an air compressor, obviously, but people have mentioned to use the cars hydraulic system to simply pop the piston out. So I need to remove the caliper and then go press on the brake pedal hard enough to pop out the piston. Does that sound about right?
Make sure if you're going to use the vehicle hydraulic brake system to push out the caliper piston bore, that you have something or a brake pad to catch it. It will be under extreme pressure. Keep your fingers away.
 
Discussion starter · #155 ·
Make sure if you're going to use the vehicle hydraulic brake system to push out the caliper piston bore, that you have something or a brake pad to catch it. It will be under extreme pressure. Keep your fingers away.
Yes I've seen people recommend to put a piece of wood there.
 
When I'm pushing the Piston back in should I remove the cap from the brake reservoir and or open the bleeder valve?
Some say yes, others say no.

The building/built up pressure may cause fluid to leak from cap building pressure therfore getting a brake fluid facial.

Also removing the cap will any air trapped will travel back up & "burp itself out. Refill brake fluid reservoir & bleed the brakes.

MAKE SURE TO BLEED THE BRAKES
 
Yes I've seen people recommend to put a piece of wood there.
Have an assistant at the brake pedal so you can deal with caliper piston bore extraction.

Yes, a piece of wood will do. Make sure it's thin & strong enough to allow piston bore to fully slide out. Hence why I said used a brake pad. If you have the old ones, use that instead.
 
When I'm pushing the Piston back in should I remove the cap from the brake reservoir and or open the bleeder valve?

NO!

Typically when you push a piston back in you are pushing the fluid back into the reservoir. As the brake pad wears and the piston moves out to compensate, the fluid in the reservoir goes down A LITTLE. Installing new pads will make the fluid level like it was when the car was first built.

Never open a hydraulic brake system unless you have to for repairs or bleeding.
 
Discussion starter · #159 ·
NO!

Typically when you push a piston back in you are pushing the fluid back into the reservoir. As the brake pad wears and the piston moves out to compensate, the fluid in the reservoir goes down A LITTLE. Installing new pads will make the fluid level like it was when the car was first built.

Never open a hydraulic brake system unless you have to for repairs or bleeding.
hmm ok. I opened the bleeder and some fluid came out as I was retracting the piston.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
Have an assistant at the brake pedal so you can deal with caliper piston bore extraction.

Yes, a piece of wood will do. Make sure it's thin & strong enough to allow piston bore to fully slide out. Hence why I said used a brake pad. If you have the old ones, use that instead.
if the piston slams against the brake pad, is there any chance of damaging the piston?
 
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