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GFB BOV Issues

2213 Views 77 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  waveslikeweapons
So I installed the GFB Respons BOV, and almost immediately got a CEL. Now I know some folks were having an issue when it was left to 100% vent, which I did at first not knowing this. So I closed it to about 50/50, cleared the code, still getting a CEL. At first I was also loosing boost after about 20 minutes of driving, was great in the first 20 minutes, but then it dropped. Now that I have it at 50/50, I'm still getting the CEL, and it's dropping boost after about an hour of driving.

Anyone else run in to this, or know what is going on here?

I have been trying to look this up, and everyone else fixed this by not leaving it to full vent, this however did not work in my case.

Thanks in advance!
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Haven't seen one of those in years lol Back when they easily hit 300k
Mine is almost there, 240K at this point! lol

I bought a beat Saturn wagon with a 5spd, no a/c, power nothing except steering as well, for $300 to teach my girls how to drive standard about 5 years ago. Ended up registering it and driving it for two years until the rear main went. Junk yard gave me $200 for it. I loved that stupid car. It weighed nothing and the 5spd was a refreshing reminder of what it was like back in the day. That is the biggest reason I bought the Forte GT with a 6spd, I missed driving manual so much. This is the only picture I can find of it. I think my wife tried to erase all evidence of us owning it.
At one point the Corolla was my only car, I got it running but it was just a car, not a project. I loved it immediately, but I had had many Corollas before so I always had a affinity for them. My wife FINALLY asked "Are you EVER going to get a new car?" lol So I got my Forte, and turned the Corolla in to a major project lol.

Here's one of my old projects. 1985 Corolla GTS. 16v with HKS sport cams.
God I love those, I wish I would have kept the one I had....now you can't get one for a reasonable price.
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Right? You get junk for $6k. I bought this one back in 95 when no one wanted them and bought for $1500. Those days are long gone.
Back to BOV issues.:)

So the more I read about Hyundai/Kia throwing the p2261 I seem to find three common things, 6spd and vented to atmosphere and sometimes age 2-4ys old. Makes me think the factory BOV solenoid gets tired faster in the 6spd cars and fails more often. If an aftermarket BOV is added to a couple year old 6spd car it is more than the solenoid can take and instant cel. Not sure what the venting to atmosphere has to do with it if anything. Maybe the slight vacuum in the intake tract helps the BOV vent when the recirc tube is hooked up?
Back to BOV issues.:)

So the more I read about Hyundai/Kia throwing the p2261 I seem to find three common things, 6spd and vented to atmosphere and sometimes age 2-4ys old. Makes me think the factory BOV solenoid gets tired faster in the 6spd cars and fails more often. If an aftermarket BOV is added to a couple year old 6spd car it is more than the solenoid can take and instant cel. Not sure what the venting to atmosphere has to do with it if anything. Maybe the slight vacuum in the intake tract helps the BOV vent when the recirc tube is hooked up?
Aftermarket valves are push type BOV (except HKS SSQV) so boost from the intercooler pipe and vacuum from the intake manifold help open the valve. If the spring is too soft and/or not enough preload, boost will leak out, especially on boost and load. Regardless of vent to atmosphere or recirc, if the valve doesn't fully close on load you will get a CEL. The stock valve is a pull type, so boost in the intercooler pipe and pressure from the intake manifold help hold the valve shut on boost and load. The stock rcv solenoid is designed for the stock BOV. It doesn't need the extra volume an aftermarket solenoid provides. Push type typically need more spring stiffness and/or more preload set. You might be able to get away with just adjusting the preload, if it has one.
I wonder what is different inside the Kia oem vs VW and Volvo Pierburg solenoid? They all look identical, it seems pretty obvious Pierburg makes the oem for Hyundai/Kia as well.
I wonder what is different inside the Kia oem vs VW and Volvo Pierburg solenoid? They all look identical, it seems pretty obvious Pierburg makes the oem for Hyundai/Kia as well.
Pierburg makes solenoids for basically everything. I think the difference may lie in whether it defaults to open or closed (so when voltage applies, some open, and others close), or how much voltage has to be applied, or how fast it opens. Who knows.
I do know that in the Volvo community the Pierburg solenoid for a certain Porsche turbo is considered a (minor) upgrade over the Volvo one
6spd and vented to atmosphere and sometimes age 2-4ys old. Makes me think the factory BOV solenoid gets tired faster in the 6spd cars and fails more often
Would make sense but my Forte now was less than 1 year old when started, with 6K miles on it. So I'm not sure it applies there? I never put the GFB on my 21 so I don't have data on that one, but it was also a 6sp, like my 22. My 21 had 22K on it at 1 year, no CEL but also no GFB.
I forget, did you try to see if you still get the cel when it recirculates back to the air intake tube? I am going to order a GFB T9111 today or tomorrow and I already have the Volvo version of the Pierburg. Hopefully everything goes smooth.
Oher than hearing the blow-off air is there really any real gain to an aftermarket BOV to replace the RCV?

Not being facetious - or anti-Aftermarket BOV. Just curious. They can be quite expensive.
Oher than hearing the blow-off air is there really any real gain to an aftermarket BOV to replace the RCV?

Not being facetious - or anti-Aftermarket BOV. Just curious. They can be quite expensive.
There is. I'm not sure about the newer iterations of the stock bov, but the older triangle shaped versions did leak some boost, and even more so when the boost level is raised higher than stock. The older stock BOV were push type BOV with a soft rubber diaphragm which gets worse as they age and heat cycle. Some power can be gained just by replacing them with an aftermarket one. Also, drivability and transient response can improved, too.
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I am not looking for more noise, that is why I am going with the GFB T9111. I am hoping to see more even boost across the rpm range and a quicker boost recovery between shifts.
I am not looking for more noise, that is why I am going with the GFB T9111. I am hoping to see more even boost across the rpm range and a quicker boost recovery between shifts.
That can be done with some fine tuning of the preload on the spring. It's too bad the BOV is mounted below.
I forget, did you try to see if you still get the cel when it recirculates back to the air intake tube? I am going to order a GFB T9111 today or tomorrow and I already have the Volvo version of the Pierburg. Hopefully everything goes smooth.
So I have tried it in a bunch of different variations. I had it set to 100% vent, 70% vent, 50% vent, 30% vent, and even 0% vent, all with similar results. The more I vented, the faster the CEL happened and I lost boost. I am at 50/50 now, which you can still hear it clearly, and I know, may or may not be any performance gains I know, I just honestly like the sound.
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So I have tried it in a bunch of different variations. I had it set to 100% vent, 70% vent, 50% vent, 30% vent, and even 0% vent, all with similar results. The more I vented, the faster the CEL happened and I lost boost. I am at 50/50 now, which you can still hear it clearly, and I know, may or may not be any performance gains I know, I just honestly like the sound.
Mine came at 50/50 and I do have the recirc hose connected with no issues.
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On ours it's going to be damned hard to see and adjust lol.
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Okay so I finally got the solenoid installed, and that fixed everything, no more CEL, no more lost boost!
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You might have already said this but which Pierburg part number did you use?
N75 Race Valve BOV Solenoid Valve Upgrade Kit (Pierburg)

I got it with the bracket, didn't need to do any modifications, it all directly bolted up and was insanely easy to do from the top. Just had to remove the airbox from my intake.
So the VW one with the adapter harness correct? I was too cheap to buy that one.
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