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Hand-Brake Adjusting

46K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  mobileterminaluser  
#1 ·
does anyone have a DIY to how to adjust the hand brake / e-brake? I thought i saw one couple of months ago but search isn't finding any results. :(


also ..... completely different question but, anyone got linkys to rotors for our koup?
 
#4 · (Edited)
I don't have a DIY on it but this is how you do it...

1) engage your e-brake to be able to get to the adjusting nut (should be below the hand brake, 10mm nut) Tighten it.

2) remove your rear wheals.

The rear drums should have a small hole in them. Make sure the hole is towards the bottom (turn the wheel/hub/drum so that hole is at it's lowest point). This will allow you to adjust the clearence on the shoes.

Use a flathead screwdriver and push the adjusting wheel inside. (you wanna aim on the upper portion of the adjusting wheel so the shoes adjust outward).

The adjusting wheel is similar to a gear, if that helps you out. So you goal is to use the flathead to push the "teeth" towards the car to push the brake shoes outwards. MAKE SURE YOU ADJUST THEM EQUALLY ON BOTH SIDES.
 
#7 ·
I still don't think you're getting what i am saying. KOUPS (and i m pretty sure all North American Fortes) Do Not have drum brakes. thats what i meant by drums. i know disc break and my rear brakes are disc brakes. Now can we get an opinion from someone who owns a Forte, or remotely knows their specs?
 
#8 ·
silly question to make your think a little.

if your car doesnt have drum brakes in the rear- what magical brake part is engaging the E-brake?

93det did a very fine job of explaining - the problem is folks comprehending.

go ahead, jack your conus koup up- remove the wheels- you will see exactly what 93det described.

if- after you do this- you find that there is not a teeny tiny mini drum brake set up in there........flame me away.

i park my car on a hill-car nose up every day- and i engage my E-brake before letting the clutch out- yeah- i am pretty sure there is a little drum in there. after all-if i have the engine turned off, foot on brake, pull E-brake-clutch held in... ....what magical power is making the hydralics clamp those brake shoes closed?
 
#14 ·
A little late on this but...

I believe on most modern cars, even those that have 4 wheel disc brakes, use a drum system on both rear wheels for the e-brake. They sit behind hollow hub rotors in the rear with access to the adjuster from said rotors.

I've never adjusted my e-brake on the forte (I actually need to, that's why I'm on this thread to begin with), but I did it on my 94 BMW and the technique is exactly the same, as is the rear setup.
 
#15 ·
The way det93 described adjust our hand brake is incorrect. We do have 4 wheel discs along with that we have a combination disc drum all in the rear set up. You should take clean this combo when you swap your winters and summers for those in these types of climates or clean them once a year otherwise.

To adjust the hand brake: Open your centre console. Clear it out you'll notice theres a felt pad at the bottom. Lift it out you'll see the adjustment nut for th hand brake. I forget the way to turn it but voila there's your adjustment nut.
 
#16 ·
The way det93 described adjust our hand brake is incorrect. We do have 4 wheel discs along with that we have a combination disc drum all in the rear set up. You should take clean this combo when you swap your winters and summers for those in these types of climates or clean them once a year otherwise.

To adjust the hand brake: Open your centre console. Clear it out you'll notice theres a felt pad at the bottom. Lift it out you'll see the adjustment nut for th hand brake. I forget the way to turn it but voila there's your adjustment nut.
Sorry for the necro, but here goes.

It's a 12mm nut. Very tight space, so a ratcheting open-end wrench will work best unless you want to remove the center console. I (painfully) tightened mine 1/8th turn at a time for what seemed like an eternity. :BashHead:
 
#18 · (Edited)
2010 Kia Forte Koup SX 2.4L does have drum shoe brakes & disc brakes.

I chaned the rear drum shoe brakes on my 2010 Kia Forte SX 2.4L 6sp manual.

Had to remove calipers, 2 bolts & 2 bolts (all are 14MM) then removed the speed sensors (DON'T LOSE THE LOCKING RINGS) then pull towards you the entire hub/rotor. Set on ground then gently hit with a hammer/mallet to drop the rotor/hub leaving only the rear brake shoes ready for repair.

Took me 1hr30min.

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Also the ABS & ESC are on. Forgot o disconnect the batt before repair. I disconnected the batt & pulled fuse for 4hrs. The ABS & ESC still on.
 
#19 ·
too keep it simple, you have internal drum brakes for your E brake, this is only for e brake,, really unless you have driven while the hand brake is on or like drifting it rarely needs adjusting. the lever adjusyment is meant for the cable stretching over a long time ....rear braking is operated by the caliper... Too adjust properly do as previous description using blade too adjust e brake too a slight resistence is felt,,,, then and only then adjust inside the car lever adjustment nut
 
#22 · (Edited)
Old thread revival - thanks to those that posted prior. I'll add my experience to maybe help another searching like I did.

I've been working on cars for 45 years, I think one other time I had to adjust the cable tension, most of my cars were manual transmission so gets used everyday. My son has a 2010 EX Sedan with 191k on it, we adjusted the star wheels 1-2 times over the years but parking / E-brake was still not great. I did his rear rotors and pads over the weekend, had trouble getting one off and had to loosen the star wheel all the way. Brake shoe was held up on a ridge inside because there was NO pad left on one shoe and it was metal/metal, oops. Make sure if you are doing rear rotors maybe plan ahead and buy the parking brake shoes just in case, you can always return them. Closest place on Sunday was 35 minutes away at Advance and they had 1 set. Autozone that had it was almost 50 minutes away. I live on Long island and there are AZ and AAP stores everywhere. Napa didn't have either. Think about getting new shoe retainer pins also, his are rusted pretty bad and I'll probably change them next weekend before they snap, also not stocked anywhere.

I got everything swapped but brake handle was still way up before it engaged but still wouldn't hold the car. Star wheels were set that there was a very light drag already. If you look at @mobileterminaluser pictures, the arched bridge on top pushes on opposite shoe when parking brake is engaged. If you look at the shiny arm in back of shoe, that is what pulls against the bridge. I had my wife help me and pull the handle so I could watch and it was on second to last click from top before other shoe moved. I knew I had to adjust the cable from there.

The directions for access from top are good, it is a 12mm nut. I found that even with a ratcheting wrench I could not really get it to move as the cables flex back and forth. The whole console does not need to come off. Two 10mm bolts inside under that felt pad and 2 phillips screws on each side next to seat. Slide seat forward all the way for easier access. You can lift the back part of console high enough to use a ratchet, 12mm socket and extension. I used the screw driver handle to hold it up. Pictures are from that setup. Then it's real easy to adjust that tighter. I had car jacked up and wheels off to confirm star wheels set correct again then tightened the cable accordingly. I went in a lot of turns, it now starts engaging at 2nd click and pretty solid by 4th. When off there is just a light drag as initially set.

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OOPS.
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#23 · (Edited)
Online search, Ebay/Amazon will show brake parts for 1st gen Fortes.

Kiapartsnow.com (have purchased, will buy again
Carparts.com
Partsgeek.com
Carid.com
Autozone.com
O'Reilly's.com
Advancedautoparts.com
You local Kia/Hyundai dealership (last resort)

Check online stores for availability
 
#25 ·
OK here are some pictures and some thoughts/suggestions. I tried 2 local KIA dealers and they said they didn't have and couldn't order the factory pins and hold down springs? I called KiaPartsNow and spoke to representative. She was having a hard time also. She did email about an hour later and said they are available. I suggest if you are going to change, get the factory ones. The Dorman kit comes with all the parts but the hold down springs and retainer are a serious PITA to get on, at least with hub still there. All the rest of the springs and parts need to be off so you can move the shoes around some. The Dorman hold down does not sit inside the spring any like factory, just on surface. The springs are not "flat" on the ends so trying to get it on straight while pushing to twist sucks. The pin is not extended at the "T" like factory so no help guiding it on. I spent about 20 minutes getting the first one on. After an additional 30 minutes and grinding ends of the one spring flat I still couldn't get 2nd one on. Spring would twist some, pliers would slip, parts fell. I have been wrenching on cars and doing brakes for 45 years. I gave up on the Dorman hold downs. I used the new pins and old factory hold downs, no issues getting them on.

I ordered the factory ones and will have here in case I ever have to anything on the parking brakes in the future. Probably not at this point in it's life.

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Side note - if you are doing brakes in the future get this Vessel Megadora #3 impact screwdriver for the rotor screws. It is the correct JIS (not Phillips) screwdriver. A little counter clockwise pressure and hit with a small hand sledge (I think mine is 3-5 lbs). It keeps you from stripping out the head of screw and needing to drill etc. I have used it on ones that others started to strip and saved them the hassle. I'm on the habit now that at first tire rotation or seasonal swap I use that, loosen them and put anti-seize on them then screw back in, not crazy tight. No issues in future. I just did that on daughter-in-laws 26k mile, '21 Tucson. It needed a couple decent hits with the sledge but all came loose.

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Oh and all done, passengers side picture with new caliper also. Drivers is still old caliper but rest new parts.
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