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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i just got me a sub and a amp i want to run the wires from the battery terminal to the amp but does that mean i have to make a hole into the firewall? also what wires would i be splicing to connect the subs and run stock radio stock speakers for the mean time thanks in advance :confused:
 

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pass your wire by an hole already made for the factory wires its should'nt be very hard to find out and you will need a LOC (hi\low converter) from your rear speakers and connect the rca to this LOC that taking the signal from the rear speaker to your rca wire the blue wire from your ampli should connect to a source of 12v that light up only when your car is running or at position ON. you should take the source from a lighter connector etc... you can also make a switch to let you shut the ampli on and off when you want the sub running or not

Im still trying to find an aftermarket quick plug that goes right in the back of the radio to not having to use a loc system and its totaly plug n play and you dont break anything.

I have this for my mazda 3 so I lost the website where I got these :(
 

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While I would love to go through all of the instructions for this, I would seriously recommend getting it installed at a bestbuy or a proper car audio shop.

Punching a hole in the airwall also requires the proper use of a rubber grommet and some anti-rust proofing.

They will have the proper tools at most shops to do this, plus they'll be liable for a screw-up.

as for splicing in, if your amp supports a high level input signal, you shoudl splice as close to where your amp is as possible, but the better thing to do is have an installer do it, and purchase a line converter to do this and a long set of RCAs. This way your splicing wires do not have signal loss and degredation running from the doors or behind the HU to the amp.

D
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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you dont need a 4 channel converter unless you plan on changing the stock speakers and plan to add an amp later. You can buy a single channel version for your sub amp.

As for where to splice it, you can go behind the HU or you can go closer to the door speaker.

I would run the power up the driver side, and the rcas up the passenger side. I would follow the wires from the HU to behind the glove box area and splice in somewhere there.

Again, I would recommend you get a pro to do this as they will have access to many resources like which wire is positive and negative etc. If you wire it incorrectly and out of phase, you can ruin your sub because it will be pulling and not pushing, and you will try and turn it up higher than it should go to compensate.

Is there any reason you dont want to spend the extra money to get it installed?

I understand that there's a certain fun-factor to do it yourself but I recommend getting someone to do it that's done it for years.

If you ever have an issue that causes Kia to say you've voided your warranty, you have no reciept of "professional" installation to fall back on.

D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok ok ok i just called a shop they will do it for me for 100$ i will get it done tomorrow i will just have to buy the single channel now hope it dont snow
 

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You should look into the MTX ReQ. it plugs in to the HU and not the speakers. so it gives you a clean signal for the amp and sub, instead of, relying on the speakers. it will give you more control over the signal also. I will be doing that as soon money permits.
 

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You should look into the MTX ReQ. it plugs in to the HU and not the speakers. so it gives you a clean signal for the amp and sub, instead of, relying on the speakers. it will give you more control over the signal also. I will be doing that as soon money permits.

that thing looks awsome and scary all at the same time!! But I know nothing about audio. But I am glad you guys are hammering this all out so I will know what products I want to go with when I get around to doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
im looking into it now its about 70$ on ebay from req its self its 120 any alternatives ??
 

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most car audio installers will carry a 25 to $40 line converter. The only a line converter doesnt give you is the seperate level control.

As for the ReQ's performance.. while I cant vouche for it.. I will say again that the factory EQing is so good on a Forte, it confused a JL Audio Cleansweep (similar device but covers the whole spectrum.. not just the bass)
 
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