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how to remove/install window trim?

4.3K views 44 replies 9 participants last post by  Lue  
#1 ·
There's always something deteriorating on my Kia it seems.

Next up, window trims. The car is 4 years old. And yes, the last 3 years I've lived near Miami and I don't have a garage or car port.

I found where to purchase the window trim now I just need to figure out how to remove and install. Has anyone done this?

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In some places it is simply separating like in my passenger side rear door. My front drivers side door it is getting mushy and gummy and the other day it stained my shirt sleeve. I had my arm hanging out the window trying to call someone on an intercom and later I noticed a bunch of black crap on the shirt sleeve. I can't believe these are $45 each and it will be around $200 to do all 4 doors.
 
#3 ·
When this happened to my daughter's 2020 Forte GT-Line, Kia replaced them under warranty.

As usual the service manual doesn't provide details about removal. Look at your new parts to see how it's held on.

Kia Forte - Front Door Window Glass - Front Door

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#5 ·
Thanks guys I've been looking at some videos on how people remove them. However I need to figure out how to remove the weatherstripping from the chrome molding. Because I only need to order the weatherstip, not the chrome mold. I found a video of a guy doing it on a Forte GT but the video sucks so bad! Omg.


At least I have the right part finally.

82210M6000 Genuine Kia W/STRIP Assembly-Fr Dr B
 
#7 ·
I have to replace the window belt moldings as well. Debating whether to pay out for the parts or try to make a warranty claim. One was replaced as part of the accident, but the remaining 3 are in rough shape. I think you basically lower the window and just pull them up like in the above video. I don't think there are any screws.
 
#9 ·
I'm a bit confused on something. The parts website shows 2 part numbers for the molding. I think one part # is for the black weatherstrip and the other part # is for the chrome molding.

So my question is, can I simply order the black weatherstrip? How does the weatherstrip attach to the chrome molding? Is the weather strip somehow glued or is there an adhesive backing on the black weatherstrip that it attaches to the chrome molding?

In my rear window where the weatherstrip is ripping off, it seems like it is glued to the chrome molding, I highlighted this in yellow.

I'm wondering if I order the black weatherstrip I may have to remove the old weatherstrip that seems to be glued on to the chrome molding?

I have a feeling that in the parts description, where it says BRIGHT, it is referring to the chrome molding. What else could it possibly be?



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#10 ·
I'm a bit confused on something. The parts website shows 2 part numbers for the molding. I think one part # is for the black weatherstrip and the other part # is for the chrome molding.

So my question is, can I simply order the black weatherstrip? How does the weatherstrip attach to the chrome molding? Is the weather strip somehow glued or is there an adhesive backing on the black weatherstrip that it attaches to the chrome molding?

In my rear window where the weatherstrip is ripping off, it seems like it is glued to the chrome molding, I highlighted this in yellow.

I'm wondering if I order the black weatherstrip I may have to remove the old weatherstrip that seems to be glued on to the chrome molding?

I have a feeling that in the parts description, where it says BRIGHT, it is referring to the chrome molding. What else could it possibly be?



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So when I had body work due to a hail storm and the damage it created I went to a body shop. When they gave me my car back they had forgot to fully install the chrome part you have damage on. When I just "pounded" on it one time to "hope to press it back in" I got a sense of how it is built. That chrome piece (black on my gt-line) has the rubber glued to it. The chrome part is held in by what felt like a series of clips. I herd an audible "pop" when the clips went back in.
 
#12 ·
The rubber weatherstrip is injection molded to the stainless. You replace as an assembly.
 
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#18 ·
it’s an ASSEMBLY. Injection molded assembly. I would never order a stainless (bright) belt molding online because they are very easily damaged and not packaged well.
 
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#19 ·
I gotcha. I've never had to do any body work and don't know anything about anything. I had no idea what injection assembly molding was so I had to Google it.

Where I was confused was understanding if I order that part, will the weatherstrip already come molded to the chrome trim piece.
 
#20 ·
Just noticed yesterday my 21 LXS has the same issue on the drivers side which in daily use is exposed to sun more than the passenger side. I was coming here to ask if anyone else encounter this issue and behold someone best me to it. Looking at the utube video it appears doable just need to find the correct parts, my local dealer parts department is not very accommodating.
 
#23 ·
yes there is a variety of deterioration on the weatherstrip on all 4 doors of my EX. On the drivers side door is so bad that when it gets hot in the sun it will stain the sleeve of my shirt with this black crap.

Mine is a 2020 with 115k miles on it. I've lived near Miami the past 3 years and I guess it's taking a beating. I don't have a carport or garage unfortunately. I'm curious how do you pop these out? Do you have to insert a flat head screw driver to pop the clip? The guy in the video I posted above just used a little pry bar, it looks like the thing I use to remove the clips on the engine underside cover.
 
#21 ·
I believe there are 2 versions of the weatherstrip assembly. Some models have a black-colored weatherstrip (no chrome at all) which is found on the FE and LXS, while the EX has a chrome weatherstrip with the black strip. If you do a search of used car listings, you can see the different weatherstrip that was used on the Forte models. If you buy the correct weatherstrip assembly for the EX (chrome piece with black strip), it will come all assembled and all you need to do is install it. The chrome on the weatherstrip is designed to match the upper window trim, which on EX is chrome. The upper window trim for FE and LXS is all black, which is why the weatherstrip is black for those models. If you're concerned about getting the right version, be sure to enter your VIN when placing the order and usually they will confirm you ordered the correct parts for your vehicle.
 
#22 ·
oh my god you're absolutely right. I was looking at different kia models and noticed some have black molding.

I think where I was confused and also why that other gentlemen began losing patience with me is that I thought that the chrome molding and the black weatherstrip (the part that touches the window) comes SEPARATE. I think that's where my disconnect was occurring and why I didn't understand him. So whether you buy the black or the chrome molding, it already comes with that black weathertrip that's touching the window. That's the weatherstrip that is deteriorating on my car and separating from the chrome molding. And now it makes sense why there's 2 different parts on the KIAparts website. I am assuming the one labeled as BRIGHT is the chrome one?

I think I'm slowly piecing this together. I figured out which part # is the bottom molding and the top molding.

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These part #s can get tricky.

It looks like the 2 part #s circled in red are the TOP molding of the door, and the ones I circled in green are the BOTTOM molding.
 
#24 ·
Went by my dealer, they had the parts in stock they are priced at $107 front door and $105 rear door, told him that those are expensive parts to only last 3 years, he suggested I talk to service, service took pictures and said they would request warranty. If the parts were more reasonably priced I would have purchased and do a self inststall but at $400+ for all doors for a strip of rubber that's hard pill to swallow. While waiting for warranty request going to look for better prices. Can kick myself in the but for not getting part numbers while I was at the parts counter.
 
#27 ·
Absolutely. When you look on the diagram it shows 2 different parts numbers, one is for the LEFT HAND door and the other is for the RIGHT HAND door.

Part # 83220 is the REAR PASSENGER WINDOW. Part # 83210 is the REAR DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW.

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So from the same window you can order both moldings for the LEFT HAND and RIGHT HAND passenger windows.

It will be the same way when you go to the front window part #s.

And I will double check with the Kia parts website that these are the correct part #s for my 2020 EX.

Here's the link in case you need it. Although you probably have a different model.

Rear Door Moulding - 2020 Kia Forte

This is a huge relief for me, I really didn't want to have to visit the dealership or body ship to do this. It will cost roughly $200 for all 4 windows. Maaaaaan this car better last 200,000 miles.
 

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#29 · (Edited)
it will still be the same rubber weatherstrip that my car came with, except instead of a chrome molding it's just black. It's still the same piece of rubber weatherstrip. At this point I'm used to having it chrome. I mean they did last almost 100,000 miles.

But you know? I've been spending a lot of time in professional detailing forums because I'm a fanatic at keeping my car clean, and I realized that certain cleaning/detailing products are petroleum/alcohol based, and will deteriorate any rubber moldings. So when I'm spreading something like Rain X on my window, which I've been doing since I first purchased the car, if I spread too much Rain X on the rubber weatherstrip it may cause it to dry out and crack. I learned this the hard way a few years ago, I ruined a nice pair of PIAA windshield wipers because I kept cleaning them with an alcohol based cleanser. They eventually stopped working well and would streak and chatter all the time. Many manufacturers will say you can clean their wipers with alcohol. I think with silicon you can get away using alcohol, but on rubber, if alcohol is used too often it will dry it out.

Same goes for petroleum based products. You cannot use a petroleum based product on anything that's rubber because it will cause it to swell or deteriorate. It's possible I have spent the last 4 years using Rain X on my windows and may have caused it to prematurely crack. Although more than likely the excessive sun here in South Florida is the biggest factor in the rubbers drying and cracking.
 
#31 ·
Petroleum distillate + sun light = cooking vehicle interior plastics & rubber parts.

Petroleum distillate on leather will damage it. It will harden & cook the leather. It will leave & feel a hardened & baked surface, like burnt pancake
Yup. That's why I stopped using petroleum/hydrocarbon based tire shine, because it can eventually crack the sidewall.
 
#35 ·
Yeah they're all just under $50 at KIAparts. So you got the black one for your LXS. When you get to installing it can you let us know what tools you used and how exactly you removed it. I'm thinking it pops straight up, not to the side. Make sure not to damage the paint if you're using a pry tool.
 
#38 ·
The part I ordered from KIA Parts was received damaged, poor packaging, it was bent somehow and had a kink in the center, still waiting for a refund, took a chance and drove up to the service department at my dealer, asked about warranty, service manager said they would have to take pictures and submit to the warranty department, will call me in a couple days, couple weeks later went back to inquire and was told they would cover the drivers side, but not the passenger side because it had not deteriorated enough, anyway drivers side was replaced Friday, took less than an hour in and out. Told me to come back when the passenger side worsens
 
#39 ·
I also recently inquired about warranty coverage, but got denied due to the age of the car. They cited acid rain, sun exposure and other environmental factors, beyond Kia's control. They sent pictures to Kia, but about a month later, I received another call reiterating the denial so I'm going to order the parts from the dealership in the next month or so and install them.

For reference, below is a photo of the right front door, which is in the worst condition in terms of the weatherstripping. You can see the weatherstripping is peeling at the edge and some of the material has worn off. The other doors have a similar issue with peeling at the edge.

In the past, as a stop gap measure, I had success carefully using a drop of superglue to hold down the portion that is peeling back but it changes the texture of the material for the glued area (it will be wrinkled instead of a smooth surface) and you have to be careful not to smear the glue everywhere. The glue held down the rubber for a few years.

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#44 · (Edited)
I picked up the parts on Wednesday. Like another poster said, these parts are somewhat delicate and can easily bend, so it might be better to pick up at your local dealership to avoid shipping damage. I paid $44.34 each at my local dealership, for the left front, right front, and left rear. The right rear was replaced about 1.5 years ago as part of the accident repair so it did not need replacement.

The video found by Walter is a pretty accurate demonstration of the removal and installation process, but I note that the car in the video is a GT with black trim:


In terms of prep work, I cleaned the doors and installed a ribbon of green automotive tape on the door, directly under the belt trim to avoid scratching the paint. I also lowered the windows.

Each trim piece has 2 blue clips, one on each end, then in between a series of yellow clips that hang on the door frame.

For the front doors, I was having difficulty disengaging the blue clip located under the side mirror near the A pillar. For this reason, I removed the side mirrors to make the removal and installation process easier. Below is a video about removing the side mirrors, which I imagine is optional in reality but it made the process easier.


I started at the B pillar side (as shown in the first video above), and disengaged the blue clip using a trim removal tool, then pulled up and used a trim removal tool to get a gap going. With the side mirror removed, it was very easy to disengage the blue clip near the A pillar. With both blue clips disengaged, it was easy to pull up and remove the trim piece.

As I removed the side mirror and old belt trim pieces, I used a microfiber sponge to clean the area underneath and a shop blower to dry the area.

For the left rear (which was not covered in the tutorial video), this one was more fun and required more effort and a yellow clip went flying in the process. I started at the C pillar and used a trim removal tool to disengage the blue clip, then followed the same process as the front to open a gap. I also disengaged the blue clip near the B pillar, but I was getting a lot of resistance from the yellow clips. As I pulled up, a yellow clip went flying but the trim piece finally came free.

When you install the new trim pieces, make sure the blue clips lock into place. You should hear a clicking sound. Press down on the areas where there are yellow clips to make sure they are all seated properly.

If you're unsure about doing this on your own, you could try removing one of the existing belt trim pieces on the front (as an example), and reinstall it. It will give an idea of the process and fasteners that hold the trim piece in place.

Overall, the car looks much better with the newly installed belt trim.