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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About three weeks ago (April 23rd to be exact), I bought my first brand new car ever, a titanium Forte EX. I've had a history of car problems, most due to the age of the previous cars I've driven (things like fuel pumps and the like). Anyway, I drove my Forte over the weekend and loved everything about it. About 5 days later I hop in and turn the key and get nothing but an ugly clicking sound from under the hood. I'm thinking dead battery. I got it jumped by a friend and proceeded to drive it around for a few minutes before parking it for the night.

Next day, I go out to the car just to test it and once again, turning the key does nothing. So I get it jumped again and drive it back to the dealership. They diagnose a bad alternator and keep my brand new Forte (with about 300 miles on it at this point) overnight while a new alternator gets shipped in. The next day they call me and I go to pick it up and all is right with the world.

Except that about 5 days later, the same thing happens. So I get it jumped once again and take it back to the dealership. This time they tell me something about the negative bolt connected to the battery --- something about how it's not truly grounded because there is paint between the bolt and the point where it's usually grounded. Is anyone familiar with this or had the same problem? This was told to me today by the dealership mechanic, and he told me that they're going to keep it overnight and test it again tomorrow to see if it's still working.

I just hope that they truly fixed it this time or I'm going to have to start looking into Missouri's lemon law.
 

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The charging system has a number of critical points and they sound like they nailed it. For peace of mind and money out of pocket, you could always take your car to a reputable car audio company and ask them to do the BIG 3 with some 4awg or 8 awg scraps they may have lying around.

Big 3=
engine to chassis ground
batt negative to chassis ground
batt positive to alternator

I've done all but the alternator to battery positive so I'd love to see pics if you get this done.

I'd even paypal you $20 for the cause if you could well-document it and give me annidea of cable length and routing for the alternator to batter connection.

Good luck!

D
 

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First off, welcome to the forum. Secondly.. Sorry to hear about the problems. This is the first I am hearing about a battery issue however others might have

Anyway best of luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys.

D113, I'm glad you feel that they nailed it this time. As for the documentation of the alternator to battery positive connection, how much would a car audio company charge for such a thing? To be honest, I'm a graduate student about to begin externship rotations and I'm not sure if I'll have much time to get it checked out for you. Just getting the car up and running has been quite the strain on my psyche. However, if I can get around to it, I most certainly will take pictures.

the67beast, thanks for the kind welcome. As I said in my original post, I love everything about my Forte besides the fact that it's been sitting at the dealership more than it's been sitting in my possession.
 

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I think you had a rare occurrence. I have never heard of this issue with any other Forte yet.
 

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It would appear they didn't fix the problem correctly the first time...probably didn't need a new alternator. Good luck this time.
 

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Quite the contrary. By law, one problem that requires several fixes by the dealer within a set amount is days is by definition a lemon.
X2. If I remember correctly. Same issue after 3 "fixes" by the dealer and it's considered a lemon. Again going by memory but could be wrong
 

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I'd think the law state by state might have some changes of what they would call a lemon.. but either way I'd assume the Beast is right I'm just guessing here
but I'd say if you have to take it back 3 times in a month or so that you have a case still check with your local law books
 

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Thanks for the replies guys.

D113, I'm glad you feel that they nailed it this time. As for the documentation of the alternator to battery positive connection, how much would a car audio company charge for such a thing? To be honest, I'm a graduate student about to begin externship rotations and I'm not sure if I'll have much time to get it checked out for you. Just getting the car up and running has been quite the strain on my psyche. However, if I can get around to it, I most certainly will take pictures..
I'd say no more than 50-75 after parts and labor to do this relatively simple part. The hard part will be the alt-> Batt +'ve as they may have to jack the car.

Also, do you by chance have one of those electric rust proofers?
 

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a had a 97 nissan new back then had the same problem I took it to a dealer that sold chevys and nissan's back then they fix it for about 80 dollars took a hour of shop time so I'd think that 113 is right on the money there
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just a quick reply to let everyone know that it happened again. Once again, about five days after the dealership "repaired" it by re-grounding the battery, I turned the key and it wouldn't start. This time I was out of town visiting my fiancee, so we had to take it to the closest Kia dealership and she let me drive her car back to my home. This is getting ridiculous, and I can't wait to see what the dealership says this time.

I think it's about time they either reimburse me for the car or give me a different one to replace it.
 

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Just a quick reply to let everyone know that it happened again. Once again, about five days after the dealership "repaired" it by re-grounding the battery, I turned the key and it wouldn't start. This time I was out of town visiting my fiancee, so we had to take it to the closest Kia dealership and she let me drive her car back to my home. This is getting ridiculous, and I can't wait to see what the dealership says this time.

I think it's about time they either reimburse me for the car or give me a different one to replace it.

sorry to hear they still have not fixed your koup..
I'm curious if there is a short in the switch for your key?? maybe the ignition switch is faulty.. have they tired that ?
sounds like something to that effect or theres a short wire someplace else
anyway I hope you have been keeping all your paper work for these vists for repair..
if so call a lawyer if you plan of asking for kia to reimburse you or give you another car. I was just reading something about this kind fo thing on yahoo a few days ago.. that was a couple things they said to do
but the bad thing is if you end up having to do this it could take a long time if you end up going to court..
sorry for the long wind of a reply

I wish you the best of luck and hope that kia makes things right for you soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks again for the support. The Kia dealership this time stated that there was some bad wiring or something associated with the radio, and the radio wasn't truly turning off whenever I turned off the car. This resulted in the battery slowly draining over time. Sounds reasonable, but I'm so skeptical at this point I don't know what to believe. I figure this'll be the last chance they get, and if the car stops running again I'll pursue the lemon law.
 

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Thanks again for the support. The Kia dealership this time stated that there was some bad wiring or something associated with the radio, and the radio wasn't truly turning off whenever I turned off the car. This resulted in the battery slowly draining over time. Sounds reasonable, but I'm so skeptical at this point I don't know what to believe. I figure this'll be the last chance they get, and if the car stops running again I'll pursue the lemon law.
that actually happened to my mazda 626, but it was an aftermarket radio
so its plausible at least
lol
hope its fixed now!=]
 

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Funny they didn't put an inline current meter at the battery to see if something is pulling noticeable amps when turned off.
 

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This is interesting. The first kia dealership I went to I test drove a Koup EX twice. Both times they need to jump the car to get it to start.
 

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hey now that I think about it I just remembered I first test drove a black on black sx sedan and they had to do the same thing to get it to start.. hmmmmm!?!?!?
 

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That definately has power drain written all over it. The thing I don't get is why after 5 days?? Have you not driven the car for 5 days? Because otherwise the alternator should be recharging the battery enough to get it to start. Does your car have a voltmeter ? If so what is the output while running? I think a properly charging alt puts out about 14.5V . Bad grounds could cause the power not to get properly back into the battery. Also have the car checked not running to see what the amount of battery drain is. There are several componets that will always be drawing power,but there should be a acceptable limit the techs should know. Sounds dumb mbut have you checked to make sure that any lamps are going off. I know that some cars have dome lights that can be set for different lengths of time . Make sure they are going off completely. I had a light under the hood of one of my cars that wasn't going off when the hood was shut due to a faulty switch and it would kill the battery after a couple days of non use.
 
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