[whybother]

Hi! This is my first time installing a subwoofer by myself on my koup EX and I had a couple of questions.

Is there an output in the deck or do I need a converter... and if i do need a converter, do I plug it in to the rear speakers?

Also, is there anywhere I can run the wire from the battery to the amplifier?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[chris.rh89]

Not sure about the output as I haven't gotten my hands on my Koup yet. I would assume it does though, D113 is the audio guru on here so he will be able to tell you better. As for the power wire, you can run it through the firewall (there should already be hole where the wiring goes through) and then hide it under the plastic molding around the bottom of the doors and under the carpet into your trunk (where I assume your amp is going to be)
Hope that helps, like I said, D113 would be able to answer any of your questions I'm sure.

 

[plat_num]

Yea, let's get D113 in here and answer some questions! I'd also like to install a sub, and I'm talking in the most basic sense, no bells and whistles and would really appreciate it if someone could fill in some blanks for me.

I've had my Amp/sub combo installed in my grand prix, however for that one I had a new deck installed and so I had a direct connection from the deck "Amp out" to my amp and a power connection to my battery... Real simple.

For my koup I've been hearing all sorts of different things like having to connect a LOC before the signal gets to the tweeder and then wiring that to the amp?

Can someone just clarify the way(s) by which a basic amp/sub can be installed in the Fortes?

Thanks, this place is GREAT btw!

 

[blkkoup]

I'm sure that D113 will pipe in soon. I too had my amp and sub from my 99' cougar, but since my Koup is brand new and I did not want to chance it with messing up the head unit, I got the experts to wire up the car. Knowing me, if I had tried to do the install myself....I'm sure I would have blown up the head unit....

Stay tuned.....D113 will speak up soon

 

[D113]

Here I am LOL and because it's late I'm going to encourage you to use the search function. There's been many threes on this now. Look up line converter or loc or cache . The head unit does not have an output so you will have to use a line converter.

I should also mention this site:

bcea1.com

 

[plat_num]

bcea1.com isn't working for me

 

[plat_num]

btw, I have had trouble searching for sub installation since "sub" is a 3 letter wor lol... but i guess i'll search for LOC and cache and see what I get.

 

[chris.rh89]

I found that watching the videos/reading the articles on crutchfield.com helped alot with my audio upgrade in my other car. Crutchfield Learning Center Video Library
Hope this helps, and there are also a lot of threads on this forum to help you out too.

 

[whybother]

I have the line out converter i was just wondering where I should hook it up to... the rear speakers?

 

[D113]

Yep, the rear speakers will be fine if not better due to it being a shorter run.

 

[roknrolr]

LOL I like how no one really touches the audio questions anymore. Everyone just waits for D to show up.

 

[D113]

thanks rok.

 

[jomin1016]

Yeah it looks like D113 is da man in these audio forums.....So "D" - lol to hook up the LOC to the rear speakers, what's up? - are we gonna have to take out the back seat or what? - can we just use on of those "wire tap things" and keep the wire runnin or is it better to tap the wires at the front doors or head unit? Where we gonna put this LOC anyway?

 

[crazyjoefound]

umm!?!?!?! use the search button; furthermore yes you have to take the back seat out its a bitch so be ready, and have fun. i did this myself!

 

[Deuce-Koup]

I would suggest not using wire taps because when it comes to audio, a crap connection gives crap quality. Do an actual wire strip and splice. It guarantees a good signal.
Yes you will have to remove the lower rear seats in order to remove the wall panels to access the speakers, but it is not nearly as hard as Crazyjoefound would have you believe. The lower seat is held in place by two friction clips at the front of the seat and two bolts at the back, accessible through the trunk. Keep this out because it will make it easier to finish the project.
The rear wall panels are held in place by a few "Jesus-clips"(no offense intended) and then some directional clips behind. Being firm but gentle is good practice when working with plastic bits.
I suggest splicing into both rear speakers so as not to lose the stereo effect. Might not make a difference 99% of the time, but that one song that transfers left to right to left will bug the s*** out of you.
As for the power lead, it can be run through the firewall close the drivers side of the engine bay. There is a small, black oblong plate bolted to the firewall with two 10mm bolts and a rubber seal in behind. There are no wires or anything running through this plate. Remove the plate and drill a hole out to match the size of your lead wire and cut a small hole in the rubber seal. This way you can put your lead through safely while maintaining the waterproof seal and without compromising the purpose of a "fire"-wall.
Once the Lead is through the firewall you can use some small zip-ties(aka zap-straps) to keep the wire from interfering with your pedals. It can then run to the drivers side door scuff plate which pops out of place with just a few friction clips. Be firm but gentle and you wont damage anything. Once its under the scuff plate you can easily tuck it back under the rear wall panel to keep it hidden and then run it underneath the rear seat and into the trunk.
You can ground the amp to one of the seat bolts that you removed earlier. I suggest sanding any paint off of both the body and the bolt/washer to ensure a good connection.
The remote wire can be run from the auxilary plugs in the center console. Follow the directions in the TWM short shifter thread to see how to remove the console so you can splice into the wire from behind. That way you get remote functionality without losing use of the plug. The remote wire can then be run behind the pedals along with the power lead and back along the scuff plate, etc.

If you plan on running any more than 1000 Watts then I suggest getting either a capacitor or a beefed up alternator/2nd battery combo. The capacitor will be far cheaper though. The experts usually suggest 1 farrad/1000 Watts. I would say thats a minimum... but thats just me.

Hope this information is helpful to you. Let me know if there is anything else.

Deuce

 

[jomin1016]

Thank you Deuce for the detailed instructions, it is very much appreciated. I will probably begin installation on monday - so I'll let you know how it goes. Also- do you think it would be better to put the LOC in the front by the head unit and run the rcas down the passenger side to the trunk or just put it in the back by the amp?

 

[Deuce-Koup]

I put mine at tieback by the amp. But you can do either. Signal quality won't really change so if I were you I would pick whichever way you find easiest. I don't imagine it will be very easy to access the back of the head unit or find a place to keep the LOC back there where it won't be in the way. But do as you will.

 

[Desiboy30x]

I would suggest not using wire taps because when it comes to audio, a crap connection gives crap quality. Do an actual wire strip and splice. It guarantees a good signal.
Yes you will have to remove the lower rear seats in order to remove the wall panels to access the speakers, but it is not nearly as hard as Crazyjoefound would have you believe. The lower seat is held in place by two friction clips at the front of the seat and two bolts at the back, accessible through the trunk. Keep this out because it will make it easier to finish the project.
The rear wall panels are held in place by a few "Jesus-clips"(no offense intended) and then some directional clips behind. Being firm but gentle is good practice when working with plastic bits.
I suggest splicing into both rear speakers so as not to lose the stereo effect. Might not make a difference 99% of the time, but that one song that transfers left to right to left will bug the s*** out of you.
As for the power lead, it can be run through the firewall close the drivers side of the engine bay. There is a small, black oblong plate bolted to the firewall with two 10mm bolts and a rubber seal in behind. There are no wires or anything running through this plate. Remove the plate and drill a hole out to match the size of your lead wire and cut a small hole in the rubber seal. This way you can put your lead through safely while maintaining the waterproof seal and without compromising the purpose of a "fire"-wall.
Once the Lead is through the firewall you can use some small zip-ties(aka zap-straps) to keep the wire from interfering with your pedals. It can then run to the drivers side door scuff plate which pops out of place with just a few friction clips. Be firm but gentle and you wont damage anything. Once its under the scuff plate you can easily tuck it back under the rear wall panel to keep it hidden and then run it underneath the rear seat and into the trunk.
You can ground the amp to one of the seat bolts that you removed earlier. I suggest sanding any paint off of both the body and the bolt/washer to ensure a good connection.
The remote wire can be run from the auxilary plugs in the center console. Follow the directions in the TWM short shifter thread to see how to remove the console so you can splice into the wire from behind. That way you get remote functionality without losing use of the plug. The remote wire can then be run behind the pedals along with the power lead and back along the scuff plate, etc.

If you plan on running any more than 1000 Watts then I suggest getting either a capacitor or a beefed up alternator/2nd battery combo. The capacitor will be far cheaper though. The experts usually suggest 1 farrad/1000 Watts. I would say thats a minimum... but thats just me.

Hope this information is helpful to you. Let me know if there is anything else.

Deuce

thanks bro i am doing the same things i like your advice

 

[Ryan6789]

I would suggest not using wire taps because when it comes to audio, a crap connection gives crap quality. Do an actual wire strip and splice. It guarantees a good signal.
Yes you will have to remove the lower rear seats in order to remove the wall panels to access the speakers, but it is not nearly as hard as Crazyjoefound would have you believe. The lower seat is held in place by two friction clips at the front of the seat and two bolts at the back, accessible through the trunk. Keep this out because it will make it easier to finish the project.
The rear wall panels are held in place by a few "Jesus-clips"(no offense intended) and then some directional clips behind. Being firm but gentle is good practice when working with plastic bits.
I suggest splicing into both rear speakers so as not to lose the stereo effect. Might not make a difference 99% of the time, but that one song that transfers left to right to left will bug the s*** out of you.
As for the power lead, it can be run through the firewall close the drivers side of the engine bay. There is a small, black oblong plate bolted to the firewall with two 10mm bolts and a rubber seal in behind. There are no wires or anything running through this plate. Remove the plate and drill a hole out to match the size of your lead wire and cut a small hole in the rubber seal. This way you can put your lead through safely while maintaining the waterproof seal and without compromising the purpose of a "fire"-wall.
Once the Lead is through the firewall you can use some small zip-ties(aka zap-straps) to keep the wire from interfering with your pedals. It can then run to the drivers side door scuff plate which pops out of place with just a few friction clips. Be firm but gentle and you wont damage anything. Once its under the scuff plate you can easily tuck it back under the rear wall panel to keep it hidden and then run it underneath the rear seat and into the trunk.
You can ground the amp to one of the seat bolts that you removed earlier. I suggest sanding any paint off of both the body and the bolt/washer to ensure a good connection.
The remote wire can be run from the auxilary plugs in the center console. Follow the directions in the TWM short shifter thread to see how to remove the console so you can splice into the wire from behind. That way you get remote functionality without losing use of the plug. The remote wire can then be run behind the pedals along with the power lead and back along the scuff plate, etc.

If you plan on running any more than 1000 Watts then I suggest getting either a capacitor or a beefed up alternator/2nd battery combo. The capacitor will be far cheaper though. The experts usually suggest 1 farrad/1000 Watts. I would say thats a minimum... but thats just me.

Hope this information is helpful to you. Let me know if there is anything else.

Deuce

The post was informative and correct until this part.
Capacitors are pointless. Do a big 3 upgrade with anything more than 1000w rms, and add a second battery. This is the best way up until you get into the 2000+ watt range. If you don't know what the big 3 is google it or PM me for help.

Deuce, I'm not underminding your post, just correcting something that is constantly advised and shouldn't be.

 

[BCKoupeSX]

Since the answers/comments here are really descriptive, I would like some help as well.
I am looking at swapping all speakers out and adding a sub. I am looking at the following Alpine amps: MRP-F300 and MRP-M500. Both amps state they allow speaker wire input and remove the need for a LOC. My question is, is this a good idea and second, how would I connect my subwoofer and mono amp if the rear speakers are going through to the other amp.
Other option is to get the Cache LOC, but will it be needed if the amps dont require RCA's?