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Discussion Starter #81
Good job on the 60 ft, though 2.1 sec is not bad for FWD..
Would drag radials be the ONLY way id be ranging that?
How much do you think the Indy 500s would help? I'm thinking NOT as good as yours but maybe range in the 2.28-2.35 sec? currently my best is EDIT 2.42 sec.
I am not totally sure what you're asking.

Street tires won't give you representative times, it's hard enough with drag radials.

What are you trying to accomplish?
 

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I am not totally sure what you're asking.

Street tires won't give you representative times, it's hard enough with drag radials.

What are you trying to accomplish?
Simple. I just want to know how much improvement is there in a FWD car going from OKAY All Seasons (the Kumhos), to Summer stickier tires (the Indy 500s). I think you mentioned you had a FoST? My previous car was rwd and the Indys help me get a best 60ft of 2.1sec out there on the street. I dont go to the drag strip.
This Forte is my first FWD turbo car, so Im not sure what to expect with tire mod.
So, at least the way I see it, a better 60ft = better 0-60s, 1/8th, 1/4th. cuz traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
Simple. I just want to know how much improvement is there in a FWD car going from OKAY All Seasons (the Kumhos), to Summer stickier tires (the Indy 500s). I think you mentioned you had a FoST? My previous car was rwd and the Indys help me get a best 60ft of 2.1sec out there on the street. I dont go to the drag strip.
This Forte is my first FWD turbo car, so Im not sure what to expect with tire mod.
So, at least the way I see it, a better 60ft = better 0-60s, 1/8th, 1/4th. cuz traction.
Not much. As I've said before tires alone don't solve traction issues especially with FWD cars because the weight shifts backwards and unloads the tires. To mitigate that problem you have to -

1) Maximize the contact patch you have available
2) Try to put as much of the vehicles weight onto the drive tires despite physics working against you
3) Think of what is happening before the power reaches the tires as the answer to most of the above is located there.

Slicks have the best grip but often have to be aired down to be effective. Slicks negatively impact trap speeds. Not a problem when you make 500-1000hp that some of the FWD Hondas and other cars are making. In many cases they have reached the logical conclusion to how far can you push down 60 ft times with FWD, somewhere in the high 1.4x range and that is with a 9.5 wide slick, between 4-6 psi cold.

Not practical for the street. Any decent 200 wear autocross tire will likely provide the best straight line traction that doesn't compromise corning, actually excels and what they were designed for. Bolting on a set of Kumho V's, Falken Azenis, even the loud Chinese Federal 595R would provide enough stick for 2.1 60 ft times with practice but to go down much further, you have to look at point #2 and #3 I made.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
About last night -

82195


It looks like the 13 second pass came an hour after the 14.079. More proof that coolant temps need to be stabilized. For one thing I cannot have variance like that in ET especially with bracket racing.

I also think that's about as far as I can get without a 2 step/Launch Control. Maybe one more pound of air out of the radials down to 15.5 psi cold might push me down into the 1.9's.

Dropping weight is worth some time but really the focus should be on the short time because the car will ET with a better short number, should be low 13's high 12's with that trap speed.
 

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How much time elapsed between the 2nd and 3rd run to make that big a difference? Oops...NVM I see the times at the top of the slips...🤐

What luck! Looks like you broke out big time but the other driver fouled out...(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #86
How much time elapsed between the 2nd and 3rd run to make that big a difference? Oops...NVM I see the times at the top of the slips...🤐

What luck! Looks like you broke out big time but the other driver fouled out...(y)
The times on the slips are accurate. About an hour waiting in the staging lanes. It seemed less than that but thinking about it and how much I milled around talking to people that is about right.

As I said quite a bit of variance. I fixed that in my Focus ST. I drag race my car competitively so I wouldn't bother with what I'm about to do especially if you live where it's cold.

I didn't care that much about fouling, I wanted to see what the car would do. I only dialed 14.00 because I thought that is what it would run given my 60 ft times. But it left especially good, they just sprayed down the concrete pad before I ran my pass.
 

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My mistake - I thought the other guy red lighted!

In your last race did you let off before finishing? Because your 60 foot time is good but your time and MPH is slower - and typically later into the night means cooler temps and faster times/MPH.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
My mistake - I thought the other guy red lighted!

In your last race did you let off before finishing? Because your 60 foot time is good but your time and MPH is slower - and typically later into the night means cooler temps and faster times/MPH.
My 60's aren't good, marginal and actually behind where most FWD cars are at with these, typically 1.9's and high 1.8's so I have a way to go.

Traction at night can go two directions. It's cooler great but there's no sun. I've talked to P1 and VP the companies that generally supply most of the tracks with traction compound and they say ideally best temp is 70 degrees ambient. Most of the NHRA records are set around this temp which is usually around 9-11 am at a national event. You can get negative DA in the day time but it's usually below 50 degrees.

I think the car was Map 7 on that run. I have the wiper stalk enabled, meaning you set the default map and use the intermittent switch to toggle between maps I had set it for Map 7 when the car is keyed off, I change once I know the car is ready to run.

It does make less power with the WMI on, so we're trying to clear that up.
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
I believe I have solved my problem with the WMI and it was easy. I simply had too much water in the system. When I tested the system for leaks and other problems I put about a gallon of water in the system. I took some logs and I didn't get much of any IAT drop.

Then I added one of the bottles of Banks Boost Juice (They call it Power Blend) which is 49%/51%. What I did without thinking really was basically double the amount of water in the system. I believe I was quenching the engine with the BM7 nozzle (444cc) with that much water, so that's why power was less than even 91 octane Map 1 or Map 2 and 36+ hp loss compared to Map 3.

So I drained the fluid out with a siphon pump from Harbor Freight (on sale $4). I stored that for later use. I opened my last bottle of Banks Power Blend and added (4) bottles of Yellow HEET to it. I bought a total of 16 bottles for around $30. It is more expensive that way but I wanted easy to handle bottles instead of a 5 gallon pale. I recommend buying it from places that sell race fuel (Sunoco, VP, F&L, etc) you get 5 gallons for $45 it's much more cost effective than buying HEET.

Map 3 peak timing advance = 13 degrees near redline
Map 7 Boost Additive 50 which is the equivalent of Map 3 = 17 degrees near redline

And much more timing under the curve IE the advance starts sooner, I saw 8 degrees at 3326 rpm.

Both peak boost around 20 psi

Heat soak temps got up to 100 degrees waiting in line at Jack In The Box. Lowest temp achieved = 68 degrees, ambient is 61.

That is a 3rd gear pull to take a log. If I ran through the gears like a typical 1/4 mile pass I think the temps would have been below ambient which is what I am after.

More tweaking of the settings, maybe of the mixture, we'll see. It's not suppose to lose power and with 17 degrees of timing with E20 in the tank and water meth on top, I'm positive it makes more power as I intended and does a better job of cooling than any intercooler upgrade as intended.

I am going to either go back up to Sacramento this coming Wednesday or go to Samoa which is near the coast next Sunday.

I am also going to take care of the coolant issue that prevents the car from being consistent and address the lack of traction/60 ft times.
 
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