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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
I have Kia Forte 2014 LX, 1.8 engine, automatic.
I'm having issue with my battery. I have installed brand new battery on 31 March 2022 and it drain if I don’t drive my car for at least 3 days (working from home), I'm having trouble starting it normally. Need to jump start. I had the same issue with my old battery and then the battery itself not holding the charge so I decide to change it.

I'm not a mechanic, but can do basic troubleshooting with help of forums and YouTube videos.

I did the following tests and every things seem to be ok, except for 2 things.

- I have 9 inch screen aftermarket radio/head unit is installed with backup camera. And it was draining the battery so I decide to remove the 15 Amp (Multimedia #1) fuse from passenger compartment fuse box. No power in radio, don't use it for now.
Question: Is removing the 15 Amp radio fuse (multimedia #1) will stop the draining? Radio is still connected.

- The 7.5 Amps (Memory) fuse, does NOT goes to Ohm 0.00, it stays at between 0.09 - 0.11. So little draining here. Also replaced "Memory" 7.5 Amp fuse. Following are connected on Memory fuse:

Driver IMS Module, Driver Smart Key Outside Handle, Passenger Smart Key Outside Handle, BCM, Tire Pressure Monitoring Module, Auto Light & Photo Sensor Instrument Cluster, Data Link Connector, Multipurpose Check Connector, Digital Clock, A/C Control Module, Electro Chromic Mirror, Driver Power Outside Mirror Passenger Power Outside Mirror

  • Tested all fuses in Passenger compartment, all OK (except, the draining on "Memory" 7.5 Amp & "Multimedia" 15 Amp (unplugged)).
  • Tested all fuses in engine compartment and all OK.
  • Tested all relay in engine compartment (click/close/open noise and Ohms test) and all OK.
  • Alternator voltage tested, voltage goes to 14.52 when starting the car.
  • Alternator is charging the battery.
  • Cleaned/grinded, ground connection (Driver side strut tower, Behind the ECU, passenger side from the engine). Battery voltage confirmed Ok prior to cleaning/grinding ground.
  • Glove box light is turned off when closing the box.
  • Trunk light is off when trunk is closed.
  • Doors (open/close) light switch set to off position.
  • No corrosion on battery or battery post.
  • Brand new battery so no dust or anything on it which can drain the battery.
  • Headlight, Wiper or other switches area always set to off after using it.
  • Car drives perfect when it’s running
  • I also have alarm system with remote started installed.

See attached pictures.

What could be the cause of the draining?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for helping.
 

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Recheck your aftermarket wiring to the vehicle wires.

Power, Negative & illumination from aftermarket install to vehicles wires. You might have hooked on constant power to aftermarket.

Unplug all the aftermarket wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Recheck your aftermarket wiring to the vehicle wires.

Power, Negative & illumination from aftermarket install to vehicles wires. You might have hooked on constant power to aftermarket.

Unplug all the aftermarket wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
Hello mobileterminaluser,
Thank you for the replay.
Just for your information, I have removed/unplugged the "Multimedia" 15 amp for my radio since 3 weeks now. Even the fuse is NOT connected, the battery would drain for radio?

When I installed the aftermarket radio, it came with the harness. So I unplugged the factory radio and just plugged the aftermarket harness. I had to solder the backup/reverse camera a "Pink" wire. The rest was plug and play (using harness).
 

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Hello everyone,
I have Kia Forte 2014 LX, 1.8 engine, automatic.
I'm having issue with my battery. I have installed brand new battery on 31 March 2022 and it drain if I don’t drive my car for at least 3 days (working from home), I'm having trouble starting it normally. Need to jump start. I had the same issue with my old battery and then the battery itself not holding the charge so I decide to change it.

I'm not a mechanic, but can do basic troubleshooting with help of forums and YouTube videos.

I did the following tests and every things seem to be ok, except for 2 things.

- I have 9 inch screen aftermarket radio/head unit is installed with backup camera. And it was draining the battery so I decide to remove the 15 Amp (Multimedia #1) fuse from passenger compartment fuse box. No power in radio, don't use it for now.
Question: Is removing the 15 Amp radio fuse (multimedia #1) will stop the draining? Radio is still connected.

- The 7.5 Amps (Memory) fuse, does NOT goes to Ohm 0.00, it stays at between 0.09 - 0.11. So little draining here. Also replaced "Memory" 7.5 Amp fuse. Following are connected on Memory fuse:

Driver IMS Module, Driver Smart Key Outside Handle, Passenger Smart Key Outside Handle, BCM, Tire Pressure Monitoring Module, Auto Light & Photo Sensor Instrument Cluster, Data Link Connector, Multipurpose Check Connector, Digital Clock, A/C Control Module, Electro Chromic Mirror, Driver Power Outside Mirror Passenger Power Outside Mirror

  • Tested all fuses in Passenger compartment, all OK (except, the draining on "Memory" 7.5 Amp & "Multimedia" 15 Amp (unplugged)).
  • Tested all fuses in engine compartment and all OK.
  • Tested all relay in engine compartment (click/close/open noise and Ohms test) and all OK.
  • Alternator voltage tested, voltage goes to 14.52 when starting the car.
  • Alternator is charging the battery.
  • Cleaned/grinded, ground connection (Driver side strut tower, Behind the ECU, passenger side from the engine). Battery voltage confirmed Ok prior to cleaning/grinding ground.
  • Glove box light is turned off when closing the box.
  • Trunk light is off when trunk is closed.
  • Doors (open/close) light switch set to off position.
  • No corrosion on battery or battery post.
  • Brand new battery so no dust or anything on it which can drain the battery.
  • Headlight, Wiper or other switches area always set to off after using it.
  • Car drives perfect when it’s running
  • I also have alarm system with remote started installed.

See attached pictures.

What could be the cause of the draining?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for helping.
What the hell does the LEGO on/off switch do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Was the battery drain happening before aftermarket install or after?
I start noticing the drain since I started working from home because of the covid-19 from the march 2020. Had to change the battery in Aug 2020 (7 years old battery). I own the car since 2014. Radio was installed in 2019 and never noticed the drain or any issue with battery. Because I use to drive 5-6 days a week. Installed 2nd new battery in March 2022.
 

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Can you install your multimeter in series with the battery (i.e disconnect the negative terminal connection and put your multi meter in between it and the negative battery terminal and tell us how much drain there is with everything off? Just to note you may need to wait 20 mins or so until after the doors are closed etc to make sure the car has fully "shut down". Also keep your key fob away from the car as that could keep the car slightly awake listening for it.

Once you have that number you can Google to see if that's high and then start to pull fuses until the drain goes down to an acceptable level. You can then be sure of what fuse the component is on that's causing the drain and can then narrow it down further to what it actually is. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can you install your multimeter in series with the battery (i.e disconnect the negative terminal connection and put your multi meter in between it and the negative battery terminal and tell us how much drain there is with everything off? Just to note you may need to wait 20 mins or so until after the doors are closed etc to make sure the car has fully "shut down". Also keep your key fob away from the car as that could keep the car slightly awake listening for it.

Once you have that number you can Google to see if that's high and then start to pull fuses until the drain goes down to an acceptable level. You can then be sure of what fuse the component is on that's causing the drain and can then narrow it down further to what it actually is. Let us know how it goes.
Hello Seifer, thanks for your replay.
I just want to do this test right. Are you talking about the same tests explained in this video:
A
Code:
https://youtu.be/XH2wdHBZ6eE
B
Code:
https://youtu.be/xBVmbYBxMyo
Let me know, I will do the test explained in video A by pulling the fuses. I have done this test before but at that time the multimeter is connected to Battery positive to multimeter postive wire and Battery negative to multimeter negative wire and I found that Multimedia (Radio) 15 amp was causing the issue but I dont remember the voltage drops number.
 
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Hello Seifer, thanks for your replay.
I just want to do this test right. Are you talking about the same tests explained in this video:
A
Code:
https://youtu.be/XH2wdHBZ6eE
B
Code:
https://youtu.be/xBVmbYBxMyo
Yep that's the correct test, let us know how it goes.

I have done this test before but at that time the multimeter is connected to Battery positive to multimeter positive wire and Battery negative to multimeter negative wire and I found that Multimedia (Radio) 15 amp was causing the issue but I dont remember the voltage drops number.
Testing in parallel like that won't measure draw, instead that only measures the current voltage of the battery.
 

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Have you tested alternator voltage, when the engine is hot, too?
It's been a couple of years and with a different car, alternator voltage was good, on the high side, actually, when starting the car, but once the engine reached normal operating temperature, it dropped to 11.7 Volts, and would not go above 13V if engine speed was less than 3000 rpm. If your voltage regulator is going out, those semi-conductors will work for a while, then stop working properly.
 
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After checking any reachable wires, connections, plugs, harnesses, fuses & relays for corrosion, rust, breaks, looseness, frayed, cracked, uninsulated,, needs repair/fixing replacement, check the alternator & battery.

Bench test or flat out buy an alternator.

A few weeks ago finished repairs my friends pos Audi A6 2.7t quattro. I told him he needed an alternator. Eventually it sunk into his YouTube university education when it stranded him. Wasn't fun removing the front end for an alternator.
 

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Recheck your aftermarket wiring to the vehicle wires.

Power, Negative & illumination from aftermarket install to vehicles wires. You might have hooked on constant power to aftermarket.

Unplug all the aftermarket wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
I once had someone tell me I had to jump start a battery when my car wouldn't start. I tried it, but with the angle of the hood, I couldn't get my body weight to land on it properly and my right foot slipped off the front end and I fell. I broke my arm when I landed. I think I should've been wearing shoes instead of flip flops. Anyway I was out of work for a month. I'm a male nude model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Recheck your aftermarket wiring to the vehicle wires.

Power, Negative & illumination from aftermarket install to vehicles wires. You might have hooked on constant power to aftermarket.

Unplug all the aftermarket wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
Hello everyone, sorry for the late replay. I was really busy with other stuffs and troubleshooting the issue with draining. It took me few days. Here are the tests that I did:
1) As suggested: I have verified the:
--> Connector A, Pin 8 = Illumination (+) goes to Illumination (+) of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 12 = Battery (+) 12v constant goes to Battery (+) 12v constant of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 24 = Power ground goes to ground on after market harness.

2) Tested with light tester and everything is OK:
--> Connector A, Pin 8 = Illumination (+) goes to Illumination (+) of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 12 = Battery (+) 12v constant goes to Battery (+) 12v constant of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 24 = Power ground goes to ground on after market harness.

Ground check with light tester: At this point, the car is completely OFF, battery is connected:
When checking the ground on Connector A of KIA HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 8 "illumination (+)" tester light turn on but barley (one element)
-Pin 17 "illumination (-)" tester light turn on normally.
-No ground light on reste of the pins.

When checking the ground on Connector B of KIA HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 8 "AUX R input"
-Pin 9 AUX ground"
-Pin 19 "USB/iPod ground"
-Pin 20 "AUX detect"
-Pin 21 "AUX L input"
-Pin 24 "Power ground"
-Non ground light on reste of the pins.

When checking the ground on Connector A of AFTERMARKET HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 8 "illumination (+)" tester light turn on but barley (one element)
-No ground light on reste of the pins. --> Not even on Pin 17 "illumination (-)" like KIA HARNESS. ---> Because this pin is empty on aftermarket harness.

When checking the ground on Connector B of AFTERMARKET HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 17 "Remote control ground" --> This was not the case with KIA HARNESS.
-Pin 19 "USB/iPod ground"
-Pin 24 "Power ground"
-No Pin, extra wire from aftermarket harness (pink wire) for Revers/Backup camera, ground light turn on. ---> How come this has the ground on? I cut the wire to see the draining is stopped. And I see the differences. That mean my backup/reverse camera was draining the battery? Is it possible that the camera got water in and has the short?

Battery draining tests:
1) 12.32v @ 06:43 pm on 28 April 2022 - Everything is connected (radio and battery is connected).
2) 12.45v @ 08:31 am on 29 April 2022 - Nothing is connected (battery and radio disconnected). Didn't drive the car since 06:43 pm on 28 April 2022.

3) 12.32v @ 08:52 am on 29 April 2022 - Radio and battery are connected.
4) 12.27v @ 08:57 am on 29 April 2022 - Radio and battery are connected. 0.05v drops in 05 minutes.

5) 12.17v @ 10:22 am on 29 April 2022 - Radio and battery are connected. 0.10v drops in 85 minutes. Radio is disconnected after voltage test.
6) 12.23v @ 03:09 pm on 29 April 2022 - Radio was disconnected on step 5. 0.06v drops in about 4 hours and 30 minutes.

7) 12.20v @ 05:11 pm on 29 April 2022 - Radio was disconnected on step 5. 0.03v drops in about 2 hours.
8) @ 05:23 pm on 29 April 2022 - Radio connected, I cut the Camera/Backup/Reverse pink wire.

9) 12.20v @ 08:00 pm on 29 April 2022 - 0.00v drop in 2 hours and 37 minutes.
10) 12.14v @ 07:55 am on 30 April 2022 - 0.06 drop in about 12 hours.

11) @ 07:55 am on 30 April 2022 - Connected "4 wires with single connector goes to radio", this is for USB data/USB ipod on aftermarket harness.

12) 12.14v @ 10:48 am on 30 April 2022 - 0.00 drop in about 3 hours.
13) @ 11:27 am on 30 April 2022 - Car started in parking position for about 17 minutes.

14) 12.76v @ 11:44 am on 30 April 2022 - Turn off the car. 0.62v charged by alternator in 17 minutes.
15) 12.44v @ 03:49 pm on 30 April 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.32v drop in about 4 hours.

16) 12.38v @ 07:30 pm on 30 April 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.06v drop in about 3 hours and 40 minutes.
17) 12.22v @ 10:00 am on 01 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.16v drop in 14 hours and 30 minutes.

18) 12.21v @ 05:30 pm on 01 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.01v drop in 7 hours and 30 minutes.
19) 12.12v @ 10:10 am on 02 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.09v drop in 16 hours and 40 minutes.

20) 12.14v @ 07:50 pm on 02 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.02v charged in about 10 hours. Weird, didn't drive/start the car since turned off on 14. Maybe its my multimeter (I doubt).

Attached few pic. For differences between my forte factory vs aftermarket connections, see "Connector A B vs Aftermarket Pins.jpg"
et wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
 

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That's quite a lot of investigating you've done which is great, however I think you may have overcomplicated it and possibly might be focusing on the wrong place, since you haven't isolated the problem to the radio yet. As you say you've had the radio for several years without issue (even if you were driving it more before lockdowns). It's quite possible it's a different component that's causing the problem all together.

I notice you've been measuring voltages which is possible to gather some insight into drain from but it's really hard to tell as you've found as it's not specific. I know your battery is new but if it's faulty with a bad cell it could act like an old battery that doesn't hold charge, so if that's the case even a small drain that's normally acceptable would cause the battery to go "flat" overnight.

Were you able to put your multi meter in series with the battery and the negative wire to measure how much power the car is using while off? As mentioned, if it's a high number then start pulling fuses to see which one causes it to go back to down to normal levels and then investigate from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Were you able to put your multi meter in series with the battery and the negative wire to measure how much power the car is using while off? As mentioned, if it's a high number then start pulling fuses to see which one causes it to go back to down to normal levels and then investigate from there.
Oh yes I did that test, I forgot to mention in my post #15. I did follow the video A from post #8 as follow:
1) Unplugging the - negative (Black) clamp from the battery while the + Positive (Red) is still connected to the battery/Car.
2) Put multimeter on proper setting as explained in video A.
3) Touch the red (multimeter) lid to the disconnected - negative clamp.
4) Touch the black (multimeter) lid to the battery - negative post while red (multimeter) lid is connected/touching the - negative clamp.
Result: The multimeter stays at 0.00 (re confirmed if my multimeter is bad but multimeter is working properly).

Even if the multimeter were showing 0.00 I pulled all the fuses (it was not necessary). And didn't see any changes on multimeter. Also pulled connector on alternator and no change on multimeter.

I'm keep taking notes of voltage drop, just to see by cutting reverse backup camera wire will isolate the problem.

21) 12.10v 08 May 2022 @ 09:38 am
22) 12.10v 09 May 2022 @ 09:38 am. No drop in 24 hours.
Note: Didn't drive or start the car since 08 May 2022 @ 09.38 am.

Also planing to do the following test tomorrow as suggested in post #10 (alternator voltage, when the engine is hot).
 
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It sounds like you may have blown the internal fuse in your multimeter, maybe you had it the measurement too low or the draw is much higher than you expected (which strongly suggests a bad alternator). I would suggest to replace the fuse in the multimeter and try again, or grab a cheap replacement meter if that's too much trouble.

Here's a bit of reading for you: No reading when trying to check parasitic drain with multimeter. Help!
 

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Yea there should be at least a little bit of draw to power certain electronics in the car
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It sounds like you may have blown the internal fuse in your multimeter, maybe you had it the measurement too low or the draw is much higher than you expected (which strongly suggests a bad alternator). I would suggest to replace the fuse in the multimeter and try again, or grab a cheap replacement meter if that's too much trouble.

Here's a bit of reading for you: No reading when trying to check parasitic drain with multimeter. Help!
Damn it! You are right. The internal ceramic fuse is dead. I tested with another multimeter and look like the radio (15 amps "Multimedia) is draining the battery.
I followed this video C:
Code:
https://youtu.be/B1moJh5HpyY
Test 1: Without removing the 15 Amp "Multimedia" fuse: Multimeter shows 1.08 A (highest), 0.73 A (lowest) - holding for about minute.
Note: Unplugging the alternator connector didnt change the draw. So I guess this issue has nothing to do with the alternator.

Test 2: 15 Amp "Multimedia" fuse removed: Multimeter shows 0.65 A (highest) then drop to 0.33 A and then goes to 0.09 - 0.11(lowest) - holding for about minute.

So now we are 95% sure its a radio then what is my solution? By installing the circuit fuse on the 12V/B+/Constent wire on aftermarket will solve the issue? If so, can you please provide me the item link.
 

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