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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
I have Kia Forte 2014 LX, 1.8 engine, automatic.
I'm having issue with my battery. I have installed brand new battery on 31 March 2022 and it drain if I don’t drive my car for at least 3 days (working from home), I'm having trouble starting it normally. Need to jump start. I had the same issue with my old battery and then the battery itself not holding the charge so I decide to change it.

I'm not a mechanic, but can do basic troubleshooting with help of forums and YouTube videos.

I did the following tests and every things seem to be ok, except for 2 things.

- I have 9 inch screen aftermarket radio/head unit is installed with backup camera. And it was draining the battery so I decide to remove the 15 Amp (Multimedia #1) fuse from passenger compartment fuse box. No power in radio, don't use it for now.
Question: Is removing the 15 Amp radio fuse (multimedia #1) will stop the draining? Radio is still connected.

- The 7.5 Amps (Memory) fuse, does NOT goes to Ohm 0.00, it stays at between 0.09 - 0.11. So little draining here. Also replaced "Memory" 7.5 Amp fuse. Following are connected on Memory fuse:

Driver IMS Module, Driver Smart Key Outside Handle, Passenger Smart Key Outside Handle, BCM, Tire Pressure Monitoring Module, Auto Light & Photo Sensor Instrument Cluster, Data Link Connector, Multipurpose Check Connector, Digital Clock, A/C Control Module, Electro Chromic Mirror, Driver Power Outside Mirror Passenger Power Outside Mirror

  • Tested all fuses in Passenger compartment, all OK (except, the draining on "Memory" 7.5 Amp & "Multimedia" 15 Amp (unplugged)).
  • Tested all fuses in engine compartment and all OK.
  • Tested all relay in engine compartment (click/close/open noise and Ohms test) and all OK.
  • Alternator voltage tested, voltage goes to 14.52 when starting the car.
  • Alternator is charging the battery.
  • Cleaned/grinded, ground connection (Driver side strut tower, Behind the ECU, passenger side from the engine). Battery voltage confirmed Ok prior to cleaning/grinding ground.
  • Glove box light is turned off when closing the box.
  • Trunk light is off when trunk is closed.
  • Doors (open/close) light switch set to off position.
  • No corrosion on battery or battery post.
  • Brand new battery so no dust or anything on it which can drain the battery.
  • Headlight, Wiper or other switches area always set to off after using it.
  • Car drives perfect when it’s running
  • I also have alarm system with remote started installed.

See attached pictures.

What could be the cause of the draining?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for helping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Recheck your aftermarket wiring to the vehicle wires.

Power, Negative & illumination from aftermarket install to vehicles wires. You might have hooked on constant power to aftermarket.

Unplug all the aftermarket wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
Hello mobileterminaluser,
Thank you for the replay.
Just for your information, I have removed/unplugged the "Multimedia" 15 amp for my radio since 3 weeks now. Even the fuse is NOT connected, the battery would drain for radio?

When I installed the aftermarket radio, it came with the harness. So I unplugged the factory radio and just plugged the aftermarket harness. I had to solder the backup/reverse camera a "Pink" wire. The rest was plug and play (using harness).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Was the battery drain happening before aftermarket install or after?
I start noticing the drain since I started working from home because of the covid-19 from the march 2020. Had to change the battery in Aug 2020 (7 years old battery). I own the car since 2014. Radio was installed in 2019 and never noticed the drain or any issue with battery. Because I use to drive 5-6 days a week. Installed 2nd new battery in March 2022.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can you install your multimeter in series with the battery (i.e disconnect the negative terminal connection and put your multi meter in between it and the negative battery terminal and tell us how much drain there is with everything off? Just to note you may need to wait 20 mins or so until after the doors are closed etc to make sure the car has fully "shut down". Also keep your key fob away from the car as that could keep the car slightly awake listening for it.

Once you have that number you can Google to see if that's high and then start to pull fuses until the drain goes down to an acceptable level. You can then be sure of what fuse the component is on that's causing the drain and can then narrow it down further to what it actually is. Let us know how it goes.
Hello Seifer, thanks for your replay.
I just want to do this test right. Are you talking about the same tests explained in this video:
A
Code:
https://youtu.be/XH2wdHBZ6eE
B
Code:
https://youtu.be/xBVmbYBxMyo
Let me know, I will do the test explained in video A by pulling the fuses. I have done this test before but at that time the multimeter is connected to Battery positive to multimeter postive wire and Battery negative to multimeter negative wire and I found that Multimedia (Radio) 15 amp was causing the issue but I dont remember the voltage drops number.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Recheck your aftermarket wiring to the vehicle wires.

Power, Negative & illumination from aftermarket install to vehicles wires. You might have hooked on constant power to aftermarket.

Unplug all the aftermarket wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
Hello everyone, sorry for the late replay. I was really busy with other stuffs and troubleshooting the issue with draining. It took me few days. Here are the tests that I did:
1) As suggested: I have verified the:
--> Connector A, Pin 8 = Illumination (+) goes to Illumination (+) of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 12 = Battery (+) 12v constant goes to Battery (+) 12v constant of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 24 = Power ground goes to ground on after market harness.

2) Tested with light tester and everything is OK:
--> Connector A, Pin 8 = Illumination (+) goes to Illumination (+) of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 12 = Battery (+) 12v constant goes to Battery (+) 12v constant of after market harness.
--> Connector B, Pin 24 = Power ground goes to ground on after market harness.

Ground check with light tester: At this point, the car is completely OFF, battery is connected:
When checking the ground on Connector A of KIA HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 8 "illumination (+)" tester light turn on but barley (one element)
-Pin 17 "illumination (-)" tester light turn on normally.
-No ground light on reste of the pins.

When checking the ground on Connector B of KIA HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 8 "AUX R input"
-Pin 9 AUX ground"
-Pin 19 "USB/iPod ground"
-Pin 20 "AUX detect"
-Pin 21 "AUX L input"
-Pin 24 "Power ground"
-Non ground light on reste of the pins.

When checking the ground on Connector A of AFTERMARKET HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 8 "illumination (+)" tester light turn on but barley (one element)
-No ground light on reste of the pins. --> Not even on Pin 17 "illumination (-)" like KIA HARNESS. ---> Because this pin is empty on aftermarket harness.

When checking the ground on Connector B of AFTERMARKET HARNESS, the tester light turn ON on the following pin:
-Pin 17 "Remote control ground" --> This was not the case with KIA HARNESS.
-Pin 19 "USB/iPod ground"
-Pin 24 "Power ground"
-No Pin, extra wire from aftermarket harness (pink wire) for Revers/Backup camera, ground light turn on. ---> How come this has the ground on? I cut the wire to see the draining is stopped. And I see the differences. That mean my backup/reverse camera was draining the battery? Is it possible that the camera got water in and has the short?

Battery draining tests:
1) 12.32v @ 06:43 pm on 28 April 2022 - Everything is connected (radio and battery is connected).
2) 12.45v @ 08:31 am on 29 April 2022 - Nothing is connected (battery and radio disconnected). Didn't drive the car since 06:43 pm on 28 April 2022.

3) 12.32v @ 08:52 am on 29 April 2022 - Radio and battery are connected.
4) 12.27v @ 08:57 am on 29 April 2022 - Radio and battery are connected. 0.05v drops in 05 minutes.

5) 12.17v @ 10:22 am on 29 April 2022 - Radio and battery are connected. 0.10v drops in 85 minutes. Radio is disconnected after voltage test.
6) 12.23v @ 03:09 pm on 29 April 2022 - Radio was disconnected on step 5. 0.06v drops in about 4 hours and 30 minutes.

7) 12.20v @ 05:11 pm on 29 April 2022 - Radio was disconnected on step 5. 0.03v drops in about 2 hours.
8) @ 05:23 pm on 29 April 2022 - Radio connected, I cut the Camera/Backup/Reverse pink wire.

9) 12.20v @ 08:00 pm on 29 April 2022 - 0.00v drop in 2 hours and 37 minutes.
10) 12.14v @ 07:55 am on 30 April 2022 - 0.06 drop in about 12 hours.

11) @ 07:55 am on 30 April 2022 - Connected "4 wires with single connector goes to radio", this is for USB data/USB ipod on aftermarket harness.

12) 12.14v @ 10:48 am on 30 April 2022 - 0.00 drop in about 3 hours.
13) @ 11:27 am on 30 April 2022 - Car started in parking position for about 17 minutes.

14) 12.76v @ 11:44 am on 30 April 2022 - Turn off the car. 0.62v charged by alternator in 17 minutes.
15) 12.44v @ 03:49 pm on 30 April 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.32v drop in about 4 hours.

16) 12.38v @ 07:30 pm on 30 April 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.06v drop in about 3 hours and 40 minutes.
17) 12.22v @ 10:00 am on 01 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.16v drop in 14 hours and 30 minutes.

18) 12.21v @ 05:30 pm on 01 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.01v drop in 7 hours and 30 minutes.
19) 12.12v @ 10:10 am on 02 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.09v drop in 16 hours and 40 minutes.

20) 12.14v @ 07:50 pm on 02 May 2022 - Voltage test only. 0.02v charged in about 10 hours. Weird, didn't drive/start the car since turned off on 14. Maybe its my multimeter (I doubt).

Attached few pic. For differences between my forte factory vs aftermarket connections, see "Connector A B vs Aftermarket Pins.jpg"
et wire harnesses. See if battery drain stops for a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Were you able to put your multi meter in series with the battery and the negative wire to measure how much power the car is using while off? As mentioned, if it's a high number then start pulling fuses to see which one causes it to go back to down to normal levels and then investigate from there.
Oh yes I did that test, I forgot to mention in my post #15. I did follow the video A from post #8 as follow:
1) Unplugging the - negative (Black) clamp from the battery while the + Positive (Red) is still connected to the battery/Car.
2) Put multimeter on proper setting as explained in video A.
3) Touch the red (multimeter) lid to the disconnected - negative clamp.
4) Touch the black (multimeter) lid to the battery - negative post while red (multimeter) lid is connected/touching the - negative clamp.
Result: The multimeter stays at 0.00 (re confirmed if my multimeter is bad but multimeter is working properly).

Even if the multimeter were showing 0.00 I pulled all the fuses (it was not necessary). And didn't see any changes on multimeter. Also pulled connector on alternator and no change on multimeter.

I'm keep taking notes of voltage drop, just to see by cutting reverse backup camera wire will isolate the problem.

21) 12.10v 08 May 2022 @ 09:38 am
22) 12.10v 09 May 2022 @ 09:38 am. No drop in 24 hours.
Note: Didn't drive or start the car since 08 May 2022 @ 09.38 am.

Also planing to do the following test tomorrow as suggested in post #10 (alternator voltage, when the engine is hot).
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It sounds like you may have blown the internal fuse in your multimeter, maybe you had it the measurement too low or the draw is much higher than you expected (which strongly suggests a bad alternator). I would suggest to replace the fuse in the multimeter and try again, or grab a cheap replacement meter if that's too much trouble.

Here's a bit of reading for you: No reading when trying to check parasitic drain with multimeter. Help!
Damn it! You are right. The internal ceramic fuse is dead. I tested with another multimeter and look like the radio (15 amps "Multimedia) is draining the battery.
I followed this video C:
Code:
https://youtu.be/B1moJh5HpyY
Test 1: Without removing the 15 Amp "Multimedia" fuse: Multimeter shows 1.08 A (highest), 0.73 A (lowest) - holding for about minute.
Note: Unplugging the alternator connector didnt change the draw. So I guess this issue has nothing to do with the alternator.

Test 2: 15 Amp "Multimedia" fuse removed: Multimeter shows 0.65 A (highest) then drop to 0.33 A and then goes to 0.09 - 0.11(lowest) - holding for about minute.

So now we are 95% sure its a radio then what is my solution? By installing the circuit fuse on the 12V/B+/Constent wire on aftermarket will solve the issue? If so, can you please provide me the item link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just to be sure it's the radio, did you try keeping the fuse in but disconnecting the radio harness to make sure the power draw went down?
At this point, the radio is connected and turned off:
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 then rapidly goes to 0.99 to 1.07 (highest), then drop down to 0.33 and then stays between 0.09-0.11.
  • Touch black multimeter lead to negative battery post, it start from 0.66-0.67 then goes to 1.07 (withing 7-8 seconds).
  • Then drop down to 0.33 (withing 7-8 seconds).
  • Then drop down to 0.09-011 (withing 20 seconds)
  • Stays at 0.09-0.11 (no change, holding down for 2 minutes from here)

At this point, the radio is disconnected completely:
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) (does not go to 1.07 because the radio is disconnected), then drop to 0.33 then stays between 0.09-0.11. Please see scenario 4 at the bottom for question.

What model head unit do you have? When the cars off it should go into low power mode and not draw that much power. If it's a smart unit you may want to check the settings menu to make sure the option for that is turned on (it could be off so the radio is on full power all the time).
I have the exact same model you posted from AliExpress but the brand is different (you know the chinese brand and company, they change the name every month).
It's an android radio with 9" inch screen. Android OS shows android v8.0 but the API level is 23 (which is Android 6.0 Marshmallow :D).
CPU-Z shows:
Model: Sofia 3GR Car (sofia3gr_car_64)
CPU Info: Intel ATOM 4 QuandCore (x86), GPU4D: Mali-450 MP4,X86
RAM: 1GB

Next thing you may want to look into is that the wire that should be connected to ACC (which is powered off when the car is off) could be wired to a constant power connection instead. This would mean the unit thinks the car is on all the time and keeps everything on it running which would result in a high draw.
Yes, you are right. In the Android OS, there is an app call "Car Setting", open it, then it will ask you the factory 4 pin, enter the PIN & hit OK. Once I'm in the car settings, there is an options call:
Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON (This options will sleep the radio when turning off the car), next time you start the car or put the key on ACC, the radio will just WAKE ON home screen (withing 2-3 seconds).
Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> OFF (This options will shutdown the radio completely when turning off the car), next time you start the car or put the key on ACC, the radio will REBOOT. This will take time to reboot (about 3-5 minutes).
I have already played with this option in the past but it didn't change the draining. Also tried to disable others relevant options like: "Press any key to start = OFF", OSD Time = OFF", GPS Mix = OFF", but didn't fix the draw.

If that isn't the problem then the only real solution would be to disconnect each wire in the harness individually and see which one "fixes" the problem. If the only wire that is the culprit is the connection to battery you may want to try divert that to an ACC wire instead (like one from the cigarette lighter connection) so it's only on when the car is on.
I know the drop happens when connector B is connected, connector A looks ok. So connector B, have only 7 cables, as follow:
Ground (Thick Black) - Pin 24 (Power ground)
Ground (Thin Black shared from Pin 24 wire) - for Pin 17 (Remote control ground)
B+ (Yellow) - Pin 12 (Battery B+)
ACC (Red) - Pin 11 (ACC)
Key 1 ---> (Brown solid) - Pin 4 (Steering remocon)
Key 2 ---> (Brown with black stripe) - Pin 5 (Empty, Note: no wires on forte 2014 LX factory harness because my car does not have the Key 2 on steering wheel)
Single Black wire very thin 4 wires (red, green, black and white) for Pin 6 (USB data line D+), Pin 7 (USB/iPod VDD), Pin 18 (USB data line D-), Pin 19 (USB/iPod ground) which I always leave disconnected.

Scenario 1: When this option --> Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> OFF: The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 1.37v (Highest). Car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.74v
Key 1 = 0.74v

Scenario 2: When this option --> Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON: The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 3.07v (highest) - 2.36v (lowest), sometime 1.37v (Highest). Car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.74v
Key 1 = 0.74v

Scenario 3: Disconnected connector from the radio but the factory and aftermarket harness are connected (testing harness only). The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 0.00v, car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.00v
Key 1 = 0.00v
This explained that when the radio is connected in scenario 1 & 2, no matter "Sleep mode when ACC off" is ON or OFF, the ACC, Key1 and Key2 shows draw.

Scenario 4:
At this point, the radio is disconnected completely: Continuing from Scenario 3, I Did "Diagnose/Fix PARASITIC BATTERY DRAW"
Code:
https://youtu.be/B1moJh5HpyY
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) (does not go to 1.07 because the radio is disconnected), then drop to 0.33 then stays between 0.09-0.11.

Question: Is it normal that its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) even the radio is disconnected or there is something else going on with this draw?

If that doesn't work out I would contact the seller you bought the radio off with your concerns. If nothing comes from that then your only option would be to buy a new radio instead.
Seller does not exist, cannot contact.

I have this sort of radio which is Android based and it correctly goes into low power mode when the car is off and (touch wood) never had any problem with starting the car even after days of no driving.

Let us know how you get on.
Exact same (look wise) but different brand. See on the top for specifications.

Have you tested alternator voltage, when the engine is hot, too?
It's been a couple of years and with a different car, alternator voltage was good, on the high side, actually, when starting the car, but once the engine reached normal operating temperature, it dropped to 11.7 Volts, and would not go above 13V if engine speed was less than 3000 rpm. If your voltage regulator is going out, those semi-conductors will work for a while, then stop working properly.
Scenario 5: Alternator test when starting the car:
5A) Cold start: Shows 14.31v then goes to 14.52v
5B) Hot start (After driving for about an hour): Shows 14.23v then goes to 14.29v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Making a current measurement inserts a voltage drop into the path which may be waking up some system in the car temporarily. Since that happens consistently I guess that's the reason and I wouldn't worry about it.
Ok.

Totally, it's the wild west out there. I think they are all based somewhat on "Joying" as I see that name come up quite often. They are a pain to get rooted/ADB working.
Even rooting will do nothing if the radio is wrongly manufactured. Especially when following wires (ACC, B+ and ground) are involved.

How long does it draw that power from ACC once the key is removed? If it's still drawing that power after 5-10 mins then that is definitely the cause and since it doesn't happen with the connector out, it sounds like it's a faulty unit.
Testing steps:
Step 1) Turn on the car key to ACC to wake up or turn on the radio.
Result: Radio is on and on android home screen.
Step 2) In radio, car setting > Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON
Step 3) Turn off the radio by removing the car key.
Step 4) Voltage tests. Note: At this point car key is not in ACC nor on ON position. Both the connector A & B are connected.

1 minute after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.081.92
Key 15.905.40
Key 25.905.40

10 minutes after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.101.92
Key 15.705.39
Key 25.705.39

15 minutes after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.081.91
Key 15.945.39
Key 25.835.38

20 minutes after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.081.90
Key 15.895.36
Key 25.855.36

3 of them (ACC, Key 1 and Key 2) are drawing the power. Also for the Key 2, I don't see any wire coming from the factory harness going to Key 2, unless the power is shared from Key 1.

One thing I just thought of, did you test if you can still use the radio when the car ACC is off? If so then that implies the B+ and ACC pins are the wrong way around in the head unit (I wouldn't be surprised if they were installed the wrong way around in the factory).
Can I use the radio when ACC is off? No.
Usually the B+ and ground wire are thicker than the other wires. And both of them are thicker wires on the aftermarket harness. I also see thicker pins on the radio's board for B+ and ground.

What gets me is that from memory Connector A has it's own B+ and ACC power supply, so I'm not even sure why Connector B needs them. Does the radio work without Connector B in (minus the steering wheel controls not working)? If so you might just want to try removing the ACC pin from Connector B and see if it that just solves the issue. You probably don't want to cut the wire in your factory connector just to test that so you may need to find a way to cover over the pin in the headset somehow. If you test it again and it reads 0.0V you know you are successful.
Does the radio work without Connector B? No. Connector B have the pin 4 = Steering remocon (used for Key 1 on aftermarket harness), pin 5 = empty (used for Key 2 on aftermarket harness, this is probably for radio with UVO model, mine is non-UVO), pin 11 = ACC, pin 12 = Battery+, pin 24 = ground. Connector A have the pin 8 = Illumination+, pin 17 = Illumination-, and others are speakers, antenna, etc. See the attached diagram.

Just to note that "fixing" that pin may also cause the "Key" pins to start behaving.
Ok.

Other tests:
Step 5) Continue from step 5, at this point: Radio is turned off, connector A & B are connected, car key is NOT on ACC nor on ON position.
Step 6) Disconnect the ACC wire from aftermarket harness.
Step 7) Verify the Key 1 and Key 2 voltage:
7A - On factory harness side:
Pin 4 for Key 1 = 0.00v
Pin 5 (empty) for Key 2 = 0.00v

7B - On the radio board (aftermarket harness) side:
Pin 4 for Key 1 = 5.73V (highest) - 5.41v (lowest)
Pin 5 (empty) for Key 2 = 5.98V (highest) - 5.41v (lowest)


So I guess, its a time to get a new radio for me. I'm happy that yours is working without any issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You've done well to try diagnose this problem.

Not sure if you tested but just one last thing is to check that ACC wire on the factory side plug is 0.0v with the key off. If you have a schematic for the pins of the radio/aftermarket harness you might just want to double check the wires "join up" to the pin it expects ACC from, i.e it doesn't go from ACC on the factory plug to some other pin on the radio side. If it does you could fix that.
Yes, its 0.00v when is off. Aftermarket harness is also read 0.00v if radio is not connected. As soon as I connect the radio, no matter (with or without key on ACC) it read some voltage (so the radio is draining some voltage). Unfortunately I don't have the schematic. Cannot contact the seller either (store does not exist).

By looking at the factory harness, on connector B:
pin 11 (ACC) blue wire (thin) goes to red wire (thin)on aftermarket harness, then to the radio on thin pin
pin 12 (B+) orange wire (thick) goes to yellow wire (thick) on aftermarket harness, then to the radio on thick pin.
pin 24 (power ground) black wire (thick) goes to black wire (thick) on aftermarket harness, then to the radio on thick pin.

Question: Do you think the ground and B+ pin are reversed (top & bottom) on the radio? Because my factory harness shows ACC and B+ one beside other and ground at the bottom. On aftermarket harness, the ACC and ground one beside other and B+ at the bottom. see the attachment.

Otherwise it really does sound like this radio is faulty and the best option is to try again with a new radio. Go for a seller with high ratings/good feedback. Now you know what to look for you can quickly test it when it arrives and consult with them if there is a similar problem.
Yes, I agree with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
One last thing you might want to try is to remove the B+ wire completely from the aftermarket harness and see if the radio behaves then (although it will probably take 30-40 seconds to startup each time you turn the key which may be annoying).
1) First confirmed that radio is powering up when B+ is connected.
2) Unplugged the B+ wire, turn the key to ACC or ON = Radio not turning on.
3) Connect the B+ wire, turn the key to ACC or ON = Radio turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
ACC isn't powering it at all then. I guess you could try splicing the free B+ wire into the ACC wire and then plugging it back in to the radio, so the B+ wire routes from the ACC power instead of the battery. This will cause the radio to only power on when the car switches on. It may take a while to startup and become annoying though so a new radio is probably better. Also since you mentioned the wire is thinner, the first time you connect it you will want to monitor it to make sure it doesn't get too hot.
I can always try but don't want to take a chance because this can cause the fire. I will be reinstalling my factory radio or get a new one.
@seifer @mobileterminaluser I would like to take a time to thank you and others for stopping by my post and helping troubleshooting this issue.
 
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