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That's great progress. 1.08 A is a huge draw, ideally it should be around 50 milliamps or less so 0.09 - 0.11 amps with that fuse out sounds a lot more manageable.

Just to be sure it's the radio, did you try keeping the fuse in but disconnecting the radio harness to make sure the power draw went down?

Installing a fuse won't help with reducing power draw unfortunately, it will do nothing unless the draw goes over a certain threshold and will then "trip" so the circuit breaks and is no longer powered. This protects the wires and circuits from overheating and burning out.

What model head unit do you have? When the cars off it should go into low power mode and not draw that much power. If it's a smart unit you may want to check the settings menu to make sure the option for that is turned on (it could be off so the radio is on full power all the time).

Next thing you may want to look into is that the wire that should be connected to ACC (which is powered off when the car is off) could be wired to a constant power connection instead. This would mean the unit thinks the car is on all the time and keeps everything on it running which would result in a high draw.

If that isn't the problem then the only real solution would be to disconnect each wire in the harness individually and see which one "fixes" the problem. If the only wire that is the culprit is the connection to battery you may want to try divert that to an ACC wire instead (like one from the cigarette lighter connection) so it's only on when the car is on.

If that doesn't work out I would contact the seller you bought the radio off with your concerns. If nothing comes from that then your only option would be to buy a new radio instead.


I have this sort of radio which is Android based and it correctly goes into low power mode when the car is off and (touch wood) never had any problem with starting the car even after days of no driving.

Let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just to be sure it's the radio, did you try keeping the fuse in but disconnecting the radio harness to make sure the power draw went down?
At this point, the radio is connected and turned off:
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 then rapidly goes to 0.99 to 1.07 (highest), then drop down to 0.33 and then stays between 0.09-0.11.
  • Touch black multimeter lead to negative battery post, it start from 0.66-0.67 then goes to 1.07 (withing 7-8 seconds).
  • Then drop down to 0.33 (withing 7-8 seconds).
  • Then drop down to 0.09-011 (withing 20 seconds)
  • Stays at 0.09-0.11 (no change, holding down for 2 minutes from here)

At this point, the radio is disconnected completely:
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) (does not go to 1.07 because the radio is disconnected), then drop to 0.33 then stays between 0.09-0.11. Please see scenario 4 at the bottom for question.

What model head unit do you have? When the cars off it should go into low power mode and not draw that much power. If it's a smart unit you may want to check the settings menu to make sure the option for that is turned on (it could be off so the radio is on full power all the time).
I have the exact same model you posted from AliExpress but the brand is different (you know the chinese brand and company, they change the name every month).
It's an android radio with 9" inch screen. Android OS shows android v8.0 but the API level is 23 (which is Android 6.0 Marshmallow :D).
CPU-Z shows:
Model: Sofia 3GR Car (sofia3gr_car_64)
CPU Info: Intel ATOM 4 QuandCore (x86), GPU4D: Mali-450 MP4,X86
RAM: 1GB

Next thing you may want to look into is that the wire that should be connected to ACC (which is powered off when the car is off) could be wired to a constant power connection instead. This would mean the unit thinks the car is on all the time and keeps everything on it running which would result in a high draw.
Yes, you are right. In the Android OS, there is an app call "Car Setting", open it, then it will ask you the factory 4 pin, enter the PIN & hit OK. Once I'm in the car settings, there is an options call:
Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON (This options will sleep the radio when turning off the car), next time you start the car or put the key on ACC, the radio will just WAKE ON home screen (withing 2-3 seconds).
Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> OFF (This options will shutdown the radio completely when turning off the car), next time you start the car or put the key on ACC, the radio will REBOOT. This will take time to reboot (about 3-5 minutes).
I have already played with this option in the past but it didn't change the draining. Also tried to disable others relevant options like: "Press any key to start = OFF", OSD Time = OFF", GPS Mix = OFF", but didn't fix the draw.

If that isn't the problem then the only real solution would be to disconnect each wire in the harness individually and see which one "fixes" the problem. If the only wire that is the culprit is the connection to battery you may want to try divert that to an ACC wire instead (like one from the cigarette lighter connection) so it's only on when the car is on.
I know the drop happens when connector B is connected, connector A looks ok. So connector B, have only 7 cables, as follow:
Ground (Thick Black) - Pin 24 (Power ground)
Ground (Thin Black shared from Pin 24 wire) - for Pin 17 (Remote control ground)
B+ (Yellow) - Pin 12 (Battery B+)
ACC (Red) - Pin 11 (ACC)
Key 1 ---> (Brown solid) - Pin 4 (Steering remocon)
Key 2 ---> (Brown with black stripe) - Pin 5 (Empty, Note: no wires on forte 2014 LX factory harness because my car does not have the Key 2 on steering wheel)
Single Black wire very thin 4 wires (red, green, black and white) for Pin 6 (USB data line D+), Pin 7 (USB/iPod VDD), Pin 18 (USB data line D-), Pin 19 (USB/iPod ground) which I always leave disconnected.

Scenario 1: When this option --> Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> OFF: The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 1.37v (Highest). Car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.74v
Key 1 = 0.74v

Scenario 2: When this option --> Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON: The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 3.07v (highest) - 2.36v (lowest), sometime 1.37v (Highest). Car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.74v
Key 1 = 0.74v

Scenario 3: Disconnected connector from the radio but the factory and aftermarket harness are connected (testing harness only). The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 0.00v, car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.00v
Key 1 = 0.00v
This explained that when the radio is connected in scenario 1 & 2, no matter "Sleep mode when ACC off" is ON or OFF, the ACC, Key1 and Key2 shows draw.

Scenario 4:
At this point, the radio is disconnected completely: Continuing from Scenario 3, I Did "Diagnose/Fix PARASITIC BATTERY DRAW"
Code:
https://youtu.be/B1moJh5HpyY
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) (does not go to 1.07 because the radio is disconnected), then drop to 0.33 then stays between 0.09-0.11.

Question: Is it normal that its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) even the radio is disconnected or there is something else going on with this draw?

If that doesn't work out I would contact the seller you bought the radio off with your concerns. If nothing comes from that then your only option would be to buy a new radio instead.
Seller does not exist, cannot contact.

I have this sort of radio which is Android based and it correctly goes into low power mode when the car is off and (touch wood) never had any problem with starting the car even after days of no driving.

Let us know how you get on.
Exact same (look wise) but different brand. See on the top for specifications.

Have you tested alternator voltage, when the engine is hot, too?
It's been a couple of years and with a different car, alternator voltage was good, on the high side, actually, when starting the car, but once the engine reached normal operating temperature, it dropped to 11.7 Volts, and would not go above 13V if engine speed was less than 3000 rpm. If your voltage regulator is going out, those semi-conductors will work for a while, then stop working properly.
Scenario 5: Alternator test when starting the car:
5A) Cold start: Shows 14.31v then goes to 14.52v
5B) Hot start (After driving for about an hour): Shows 14.23v then goes to 14.29v.
 

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At this point, the radio is connected and turned off:
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 then rapidly goes to 0.99 to 1.07 (highest), then drop down to 0.33 and then stays between 0.09-0.11.
So the time I touch the black multimeter lead to negative battery post, its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) (does not go to 1.07 because the radio is disconnected), then drop to 0.33 then stays between 0.09-0.11.

Question: Is it normal that its goes to 0.66-0.67 (highest) even the radio is disconnected or there is something else going on with this draw?


Making a current measurement inserts a voltage drop into the path which may be waking up some system in the car temporarily. Since that happens consistently I guess that's the reason and I wouldn't worry about it.

I have the exact same model you posted from AliExpress but the brand is different (you know the chinese brand and company, they change the name every month).
It's an android radio with 9" inch screen. Android OS shows android v8.0 but the API level is 23 (which is Android 6.0 Marshmallow :D).


Totally, it's the wild west out there. I think they are all based somewhat on "Joying" as I see that name come up quite often. They are a pain to get rooted/ADB working.

Scenario 2: When this option --> Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON: The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 3.07v (highest) - 2.36v (lowest), sometime 1.37v (Highest). Car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.74v
Key 1 = 0.74v

Scenario 3: Disconnected connector from the radio but the factory and aftermarket harness are connected (testing harness only). The multimeter is reading:
B+ = 12.40v
ACC = 0.00v, car key is removed, not set to ACC.
ACC = 12.40v, car key is on ACC.
Key 1 = 0.00v
Key 1 = 0.00v
This explained that when the radio is connected in scenario 1 & 2, no matter "Sleep mode when ACC off" is ON or OFF, the ACC, Key1 and Key2 shows draw.
How long does it draw that power from ACC once the key is removed? If it's still drawing that power after 5-10 mins then that is definitely the cause and since it doesn't happen with the connector out, it sounds like it's a faulty unit.

One thing I just thought of, did you test if you can still use the radio when the car ACC is off? If so then that implies the B+ and ACC pins are the wrong way around in the head unit (I wouldn't be surprised if they were installed the wrong way around in the factory).

What gets me is that from memory Connector A has it's own B+ and ACC power supply, so I'm not even sure why Connector B needs them. Does the radio work without Connector B in (minus the steering wheel controls not working)? If so you might just want to try removing the ACC pin from Connector B and see if it that just solves the issue. You probably don't want to cut the wire in your factory connector just to test that so you may need to find a way to cover over the pin in the headset somehow. If you test it again and it reads 0.0V you know you are successful.

Just to note that "fixing" that pin may also cause the "Key" pins to start behaving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Making a current measurement inserts a voltage drop into the path which may be waking up some system in the car temporarily. Since that happens consistently I guess that's the reason and I wouldn't worry about it.
Ok.

Totally, it's the wild west out there. I think they are all based somewhat on "Joying" as I see that name come up quite often. They are a pain to get rooted/ADB working.
Even rooting will do nothing if the radio is wrongly manufactured. Especially when following wires (ACC, B+ and ground) are involved.

How long does it draw that power from ACC once the key is removed? If it's still drawing that power after 5-10 mins then that is definitely the cause and since it doesn't happen with the connector out, it sounds like it's a faulty unit.
Testing steps:
Step 1) Turn on the car key to ACC to wake up or turn on the radio.
Result: Radio is on and on android home screen.
Step 2) In radio, car setting > Sleep mode settings ---> Sleep mode when ACC off ==> ON
Step 3) Turn off the radio by removing the car key.
Step 4) Voltage tests. Note: At this point car key is not in ACC nor on ON position. Both the connector A & B are connected.

1 minute after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.081.92
Key 15.905.40
Key 25.905.40

10 minutes after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.101.92
Key 15.705.39
Key 25.705.39

15 minutes after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.081.91
Key 15.945.39
Key 25.835.38

20 minutes after the radio is turned off:
WiresHighest voltageLowest voltage
ACC2.081.90
Key 15.895.36
Key 25.855.36

3 of them (ACC, Key 1 and Key 2) are drawing the power. Also for the Key 2, I don't see any wire coming from the factory harness going to Key 2, unless the power is shared from Key 1.

One thing I just thought of, did you test if you can still use the radio when the car ACC is off? If so then that implies the B+ and ACC pins are the wrong way around in the head unit (I wouldn't be surprised if they were installed the wrong way around in the factory).
Can I use the radio when ACC is off? No.
Usually the B+ and ground wire are thicker than the other wires. And both of them are thicker wires on the aftermarket harness. I also see thicker pins on the radio's board for B+ and ground.

What gets me is that from memory Connector A has it's own B+ and ACC power supply, so I'm not even sure why Connector B needs them. Does the radio work without Connector B in (minus the steering wheel controls not working)? If so you might just want to try removing the ACC pin from Connector B and see if it that just solves the issue. You probably don't want to cut the wire in your factory connector just to test that so you may need to find a way to cover over the pin in the headset somehow. If you test it again and it reads 0.0V you know you are successful.
Does the radio work without Connector B? No. Connector B have the pin 4 = Steering remocon (used for Key 1 on aftermarket harness), pin 5 = empty (used for Key 2 on aftermarket harness, this is probably for radio with UVO model, mine is non-UVO), pin 11 = ACC, pin 12 = Battery+, pin 24 = ground. Connector A have the pin 8 = Illumination+, pin 17 = Illumination-, and others are speakers, antenna, etc. See the attached diagram.

Just to note that "fixing" that pin may also cause the "Key" pins to start behaving.
Ok.

Other tests:
Step 5) Continue from step 5, at this point: Radio is turned off, connector A & B are connected, car key is NOT on ACC nor on ON position.
Step 6) Disconnect the ACC wire from aftermarket harness.
Step 7) Verify the Key 1 and Key 2 voltage:
7A - On factory harness side:
Pin 4 for Key 1 = 0.00v
Pin 5 (empty) for Key 2 = 0.00v

7B - On the radio board (aftermarket harness) side:
Pin 4 for Key 1 = 5.73V (highest) - 5.41v (lowest)
Pin 5 (empty) for Key 2 = 5.98V (highest) - 5.41v (lowest)


So I guess, its a time to get a new radio for me. I'm happy that yours is working without any issue.
 

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You've done well to try diagnose this problem.

Not sure if you tested but just one last thing is to check that ACC wire on the factory side plug is 0.0v with the key off. If you have a schematic for the pins of the radio/aftermarket harness you might just want to double check the wires "join up" to the pin it expects ACC from, i.e it doesn't go from ACC on the factory plug to some other pin on the radio side. If it does you could fix that.

Otherwise it really does sound like this radio is faulty and the best option is to try again with a new radio. Go for a seller with high ratings/good feedback. Now you know what to look for you can quickly test it when it arrives and consult with them if there is a similar problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You've done well to try diagnose this problem.

Not sure if you tested but just one last thing is to check that ACC wire on the factory side plug is 0.0v with the key off. If you have a schematic for the pins of the radio/aftermarket harness you might just want to double check the wires "join up" to the pin it expects ACC from, i.e it doesn't go from ACC on the factory plug to some other pin on the radio side. If it does you could fix that.
Yes, its 0.00v when is off. Aftermarket harness is also read 0.00v if radio is not connected. As soon as I connect the radio, no matter (with or without key on ACC) it read some voltage (so the radio is draining some voltage). Unfortunately I don't have the schematic. Cannot contact the seller either (store does not exist).

By looking at the factory harness, on connector B:
pin 11 (ACC) blue wire (thin) goes to red wire (thin)on aftermarket harness, then to the radio on thin pin
pin 12 (B+) orange wire (thick) goes to yellow wire (thick) on aftermarket harness, then to the radio on thick pin.
pin 24 (power ground) black wire (thick) goes to black wire (thick) on aftermarket harness, then to the radio on thick pin.

Question: Do you think the ground and B+ pin are reversed (top & bottom) on the radio? Because my factory harness shows ACC and B+ one beside other and ground at the bottom. On aftermarket harness, the ACC and ground one beside other and B+ at the bottom. see the attachment.

Otherwise it really does sound like this radio is faulty and the best option is to try again with a new radio. Go for a seller with high ratings/good feedback. Now you know what to look for you can quickly test it when it arrives and consult with them if there is a similar problem.
Yes, I agree with you.
 

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Question: Do you think the ground and B+ pin are reversed (top & bottom) on the radio? Because my factory harness shows ACC and B+ one beside other and ground at the bottom. On aftermarket harness, the ACC and ground one beside other and B+ at the bottom. see the attachment.
It's possible they might have got them reversed but it's hard to know if the radio would work at all (the ACC line might be still providing the power). If the radio comes on instantly when you turn the key then that's not likely the problem (as the device is fully powered). If it takes 30-40 seconds, then possibly.

One last thing you might want to try is to remove the B+ wire completely from the aftermarket harness and see if the radio behaves then (although it will probably take 30-40 seconds to startup each time you turn the key which may be annoying).
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
One last thing you might want to try is to remove the B+ wire completely from the aftermarket harness and see if the radio behaves then (although it will probably take 30-40 seconds to startup each time you turn the key which may be annoying).
1) First confirmed that radio is powering up when B+ is connected.
2) Unplugged the B+ wire, turn the key to ACC or ON = Radio not turning on.
3) Connect the B+ wire, turn the key to ACC or ON = Radio turn on.
 

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1) First confirmed that radio is powering up when B+ is connected.
2) Unplugged the B+ wire, turn the key to ACC or ON = Radio not turning on.
3) Connect the B+ wire, turn the key to ACC or ON = Radio turn on.
ACC isn't powering it at all then. I guess you could try splicing the free B+ wire into the ACC wire and then plugging it back in to the radio, so the B+ wire routes from the ACC power instead of the battery. This will cause the radio to only power on when the car switches on. It may take a while to startup and become annoying though so a new radio is probably better. Also since you mentioned the wire is thinner, the first time you connect it you will want to monitor it to make sure it doesn't get too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
ACC isn't powering it at all then. I guess you could try splicing the free B+ wire into the ACC wire and then plugging it back in to the radio, so the B+ wire routes from the ACC power instead of the battery. This will cause the radio to only power on when the car switches on. It may take a while to startup and become annoying though so a new radio is probably better. Also since you mentioned the wire is thinner, the first time you connect it you will want to monitor it to make sure it doesn't get too hot.
I can always try but don't want to take a chance because this can cause the fire. I will be reinstalling my factory radio or get a new one.
@seifer @mobileterminaluser I would like to take a time to thank you and others for stopping by my post and helping troubleshooting this issue.
 

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The risk would be very low but being on the side of caution is completely understandable. It's good you still have your factory radio to put back, I sold mine off as soon as I replaced it with the new one :)

Happy to help and I hope the next radio you use doesn't cause any problems.
 
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