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Discussion starter · #122 ·
Doubtful that I will do any performance modifications honestly. Sporty or not, these are still economy cars through and through. The only thing these 2.4L engines really need is an efficient low-boost turbo system. An Aerocharger 200/250/66 would be ideal and come in to boost almost instantly, but I'm kind of partial those units after working there for 3-years and seeing first hand how they compare to conventional turbo units and especially superchargers. To be honest though I would only put together a turbo system for this car if I could do all the fabrication myself. Unfortunately I no longer have access to a welder and full machine shop like I did in the past. So unless I find a good deal on a decent TIG welder and start calling in some favors from my old co-workers then I doubt this engine will get much attention.
 
Discussion starter · #123 · (Edited)
They really are the fastest spooling turbos hands down, even quicker than the Borg-Warner variable-vane units on the 997+ Porsches. They were a hard sell though, pretty much nobody believes you when you advertise a turbo with no turbo-lag.

When I was still working there I developed a center-mounted Aerocharger conversion for the Porsche 930 as sort of a side project. We ended up putting ten of them into production but the Porsche community was so skeptical of the technology, despite the dyno charts and demos, that it didn't sell very well. The car was insane though. In stock form it didn't hit peak torque until almost 4,500rpm at .8 BAR. With the Aerocharger system it hit peak torque at just under 2,500rpm at the same boost level as stock. Here's a link to it. All fabrication, testing, and production work was done by me.

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BTW looks like that anthony guy stopped crying in your thread and started bitching about you in somebody elses. Keep up the good work. You know you're doing it right when you have haters.
Haters? I love his car, I think it looks freaking amazing. I just wish he would some more information with us about other car parts that would fit as well on ours as well.. Not even to copy the exact lips he used directly, but im sure other lips/roof spoilers off whatever car he used would work with some modification as well.

Of course he doesnt have to tell anyone what car they are from, its understandable, it is just my opinion that this information would help the car community as a whole.

In the other threads people are mocking me for my rims, when in reality varrstoens and XXrs are both cast and are both knock offs. The other times people put words in my mouth because I simply stated my opinion that members sharing information, instead of keeping secrets. Which they stated was a *passive aggressive* jab at Hoba not sharing his secrets..

Ive over it now, Hoba has earned my respect and shown his worth on this forum. I hereby apologize to him, and wish him the best of luck with his car. Maybe in the future someone can figure out the lip designs, but for now oh well. Its all of the other *new* members now who keep bringing my name back into this thread.
 
Discussion starter · #126 ·
Thanks Anthony, nice to see some positive vibes. Hopefully things will stay out of the gutter in this thread from now on.


A little update: currently the car is in the shop getting the trunk shaved and I'm stuck driving a horrid rental Fiesta for the rest of the week. Hopefully all goes well and I'll get the car back on Friday just in time for the Wyandotte Lake meet this weekend.

Pics to follow of course.
 
sweet cant wait to see how thats gonna look
 
I have not ran across extended ball joints. They may be ..out there:) SPC has Adj ball joints for Hyundai & Kia. I'm not sure if its same style. It may be worth mentioning J5 in Korea has adjustable front endlinks.

Very nice work!
Subscribed!

though an extended lower ball joint would be desirable for keeping the lower control arm geometry in check during hard cornering.
 
Discussion starter · #134 ·
Here's the post from the Kansas City meet thread:

There is a meet on Oct 13th from 11am - 5pm at Wyandotte County lake beach shelter. Primarily an Audi/VW meet but all are welcome. In the past, some nice BMW's and a few other surprises were in attendance. Usually a good mix of the older and younger crowd both doing their thing. The location is wonderful being right on the lake and the shelter is quite large making plenty of room for a good spread of food. Bring something if you come (besides your own beer of course) :)

I will most likely be attending and hoping to drag E Hoba along as well.

wyandotte county lake - Google Maps

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I will have to see what is going on tomorrow. Only mods I have is debadge, K Badges and intake and tint. So weather isnt a huge deal. Wish I would have found a garage to store it in while I am in basic instead of sitting outside for months.
 
I just installed the Megan coilovers, Lowest setting for front and rear, took out the rear adjustment collars, removed wheel well lining and cambered the front all the way. aside from rubbing fenders like hell(front and back)and horrible rubbing in turns, it seems as though the front wheels rub against the metal piece that holds the bumper to the fender, during uneven pavement of course. do you have that issue too? and what can be done about it? Another really frustrating thing is when i hit any abrupt uneveness in pavement, even of the slightest degree, the front makes a loud clanking noise. I cannot figure out what is causing that sound. I feel as though it is the front struts themselves. Have you or anyone else running the megans had that issue?
 
Discussion starter · #139 ·
I removed the section where the front bumper bolts to the fenders. I had to grind that entire section down (on both the edge of the bumper and the bracket on the fender) until there was adequate clearance. I also had to do this in the rear. Thankfully there are enough contact points on the bumpers that it hasn't proved to be an issue removing a bolt from each side. Make sure to cover those areas with a sealant or paint once finished so you're car won't rust away further down the road.

As for the sound you are hearing up front it sounds like you may just need to dial in some pre-load on your springs. Mine had no pre-load (neutral) out of the box so I brought the lower spring seats up about 3/4". If that doesn't solve your problem then it may be you wheel size/offset. I'm running low-offset 17's, so a larger, higher-offset wheel will have less inner clearance than me. You might be coming into contact with something in the wheel well on those big bumps in the pavement.
 
I removed the section where the front bumper bolts to the fenders. I had to grind that entire section down (on both the edge of the bumper and the bracket on the fender) until there was adequate clearance. I also had to do this in the rear. Thankfully there are enough contact points on the bumpers that it hasn't proved to be an issue removing a bolt from each side. Make sure to cover those areas with a sealant or paint once finished so you're car won't rust away further down the road.

As for the sound you are hearing up front it sounds like you may just need to dial in some pre-load on your springs. Mine had no pre-load (neutral) out of the box so I brought the lower spring seats up about 3/4". If that doesn't solve your problem then it may be you wheel size/offset. I'm running low-offset 17's, so a larger, higher-offset wheel will have less inner clearance than me. You might be coming into contact with something in the wheel well on those big bumps in the pavement.
Ok, sounds good. I will raise it a little bit, because I can't take turns without the front tires rubbing. :( and I'll see that I preload the front springs too. I have to put those adjustment collars back in the creaking of the rear is driving me insane. Plus i had someone come to pull/flare my fenders, they did a horrible job, the rear fender look like straight sh*t. and bubbly and uneven. I'm gonna have to find a shop now that can hopefully fix that mess. :( slamming a car is a lot of problems.
 
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