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Very sick koup man. I'm planning on doing some stuff to mine too here soon. Like you I've had some cars before(95 neon srt swap, rb26 89 240 hatch) but never bought a car new. Unfortunately I'm facing some rough water up ahead :/. I love your koup tho. I like the stance and cleanasfuck fitment. I just wish the rear suspension was different. Like my neon, that thing had independent rear suspension. Camber was no problem.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC
 
Plus i had someone come to pull/flare my fenders, they did a horrible job, the rear fender look like straight sh*t. and bubbly and uneven. I'm gonna have to find a shop now that can hopefully fix that mess. :( slamming a car is a lot of problems.
Did they use a proper fender rolling tool? I prefer the PBM fender rollers as they have a shorter arm than the Eastwood rollers which makes them more coilover friendly. Hope you can get your fenders sorted out.
 
Did they use a proper fender rolling tool? I prefer the PBM fender rollers as they have a shorter arm than the Eastwood rollers which makes them more coilover friendly. Hope you can get your fenders sorted out.
My car is at the body shop for the week, they said it'll cost $650 to fix it and flare it properly. :( Such is life I guess. Beauty is pain.
 
Man, i'm glad to see some stanced forte's!! i thought there was only 2/3 other people that cared to make these respectable in the Stancing community. I'm def. loving all the sleek and unique mods to your car. The Varr wheels (17x9?) are nice and fitted and cambered in perfectly. The only thing i would add is two my doors lol :p
I am kinda the same with passing out my secrets, because i like making ppl work like i had to, to get my results. I have plans for mine as well (sig) but the bags and rotiforms have to wait a lil while.

BTW i think you're on S|W (stanceworks forum) i've seen your 240 s13 before.. If that's you im 244brick on there that had the slammed wagon
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Sorry if im thread jacking :cool:
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
I was wondering about the car in your sig. Well thanks for the compliments, this car still has a long way to go but I wanted to get the stance squared away first. I've thought about bags off and on, though decided against it for several reasons. However now that I'm in my new house I might have to go that route if I can't pull off going lower with this static setup.

We'll see though, I need to get a few more things out of the way first like interior and entertainment among a few other odds and ends. It's a project, it never ends.
 
Yeah, i hear you.. The sig is just a chop of a random sx 4dr.. I own a 11 Pewter 4d, i ant to bag it cause it's my first new car of 12. I just don't want to ride static like the wagon. I bust the trans on the wagon from just a little man cover plate and i ripped the oil pan drain plug .It was fun, but this is a new car that i plan on having for 15+ years. So, i want to get it right the first time. I'm thinking of bag over strut (cheaper) vs the universal and weld on brackets. IDK i have to see. The hardest part is doing this and not fully owning my car.. That's the hang up
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
I'm thinking of bag over strut (cheaper) vs the universal and weld on brackets. IDK i have to see. The hardest part is doing this and not fully owning my car.. That's the hang up
The fronts are fairly straightforward. The back would just require some cups to be made like the ones below. You could even make them bolt-on so they aren't permanent. The biggest problem I see is the protrusion where the factory bump stop mounts inside the rear springs, it may cause clearance issues for mounting bags back there.

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I would remove the bumpstops. Cause my wheels will become my resting point. So the stops will only prevent the lows
 
Discussion starter · #151 ·
I have the bump stops removed as well, put the mounting point is still there and still in the way for bags. If anything it would just force the use of a shorter bag in the back. Which wouldn't be a big deal, but it would limit the maximum amount of travel back there.
 
Well, that's the thing... air'd up i want to be around what H&R springs would sit the car and down would be where the fender and lip meets in "Holy Matrimony." I'm just going to get the wheels and sit decently on the stance with coil springs from summitracing, probably with 300-400LB/in and short springs w adj'r collars up front and find some springs from an e36 or close to the bimmers setup, with a spring retainer at the bottom to prevent the spring from unsetting when it isn't under pressure and maybe even a shorter stroking shock from another model. I.e angled drives and etc.
 
My original plan was to remove the whole adjustment assembly from the rear all together and just use the spring, but the springs overall diameter prevent them from fitting into the upper spring seat so you have to use the whole assembly. Right now mine is set all the way low with one coil removed. I chose to leave both adjustment collars on though since they help keep everything centered. Also the Megan shocks have bump stops so I removed the factory ones.


I dropped by the dealer yesterday, they were perplexed:
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Sick ride man. I was wondering what you did to get the rear to sit so low. I actually removed the rear bump stops and one locking ring from each side on my Megan's. I'm still not quite satisfied with the stance, but that's why I'm glad I came across this. Maybe I'll actually consider removing a coil off the rears as well.
 
Yeah ckkbleev i would remove the collars or cut one coil.. or order two shorter springs from BC racing/Swift/eibach
coincidentally megan racing also sells lowering springs now for super cheap (120 bucks) I bet you can get a set of those and cut them. I can't imagine the spring rate being too different then the ones included with the coilovers. It would most likely be close enough to work.
 
Yeah ckkbleev i would remove the collars or cut one coil.. or order two shorter springs from BC racing/Swift/eibach
The thing about removing the collars, which is what I did on the rears, is that it becomes really creaky. It bothers me a lot as I hate noises that shouldn't be there. If you don't mind the creaking then do it, but I will add a one of the collars and see if it centers it out and stops the creaking from the rear.
 
Discussion starter · #157 ·
I found that the best setup in the rear (with these coilovers) is to use both collars and just cut your spring to the height you need. The smaller collar is especially important as it helps keep your spring centered. Without it you may hear some feedback when going over large bumps.
 
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