Man, I love your car's look. It is intimidating. LOLFound an empty street and did a quick shoot
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Man, I love your car's look. It is intimidating. LOLFound an empty street and did a quick shoot
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Pretty much what ForteGT2 said. There are x5 bolts you need to undo AND double sided tape. It's a huge pain. Since I didn't know about the bolts I ended snapping my factory spoiler into many different pieces.This is the spoiler I have. Whatt did you do about the bolt holes?
Lol. Thanks. Most people respect the car until I tell them it's a Kia.Man, I love your car's look. It is intimidating. LOL
Great, thank you so much for the info. Glad to hear yours is holding up steady as well! Do you remember what waterproof tape you used to cover the holes? And does it have to be double sided tape to cover holes?Pretty much what ForteGT2 said. There are x5 bolts you need to undo AND double sided tape. It's a huge pain. Since I didn't know about the bolts I ended snapping my factory spoiler into many different pieces.
The double sided tape used to secure the new spoiler is decent as it will surround the holes, but I patched over the holes as well with water proof tape just in case. Haven't had any leakage issues since the install 2 years ago.
There should be a post with the steps for the picture above so search the forum.
Hi, where and who did you get the eyelids from on ebay? Oh, I did get the rear window spoiler, installed it and it looks great, thank you for your help and info on that.Did I ever post about the eye lids? Got them from eBay back in May, and they came pre-painted in the car color. It's subtle with dark grey. I think a white car would be more of a stand out.
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Considering the eyelids are/were made in Russia I think there may be a problem getting them now...Hi, where and who did you get the eyelids from on ebay? Oh, I did get the rear window spoiler, installed it and it looks great, thank you for your help and info on that.
The makers of the eyelids probably got drafted to fight in the war.Considering the eyelids are/were made in Russia I think there may be a problem getting them now...
I can no longer find them on ebay. There were two versions - one was thinner than the other.
Oh crap! Yep, not gonna get those anytime soon. Thanks for the info, have to go a different route..Considering the eyelids are/were made in Russia I think there may be a problem getting them now...
I can no longer find them on ebay. There were two versions - one was thinner than the other.
The JB4 is decent enough. I'm just waiting until the car is a bit older before I decide to mess with warranty with an ECU tune.Gday Arith, long time lurker just joining the forum now - I have a red 21 hatch that ill probably be posting about soon. Wanted to ask, have you ever experienced a rough idle or anything which feels like misfires during idle, especially since installing the JB4? How's that going for you?
Thanks for the reply, im told this is a very common issue with the 1.6T engines through Tristan at Cherry - but all I know is that I never noticed it before the JB4 install. Mine went in with HKS MR40XLZ plugs, intercooler reso delete, midpipe replacement and engine pitch mount bushing replacement. Since the work, during idle occasionally ill feel a "bump" like ive just gone over a pothole and the rpm will drop by about 20 or 30 before recovering, all within half a second. It doesnt happen often, but it happens enough for me to notice, probably once or twice every few minutes. No codes, no engine lights, no loss of power or misfires when driving. Have you ever noticed it happening with the JB4 loom disconnected? Im still testing, but mine seems to idle better with it off. Ive seen some posts on the Burger forum for similar issues and no conclusive answers.The JB4 is decent enough. I'm just waiting until the car is a bit older before I decide to mess with warranty with an ECU tune.
But yes, I also get rough idle. This is whether it's with the plugs and ignition coils or not. So I assumed it's just normal. I disconnect it for servicing so I can't really get the dealership to investigate. And I'm just too lazy to log it and upload it to the JB4 group or to Burger. Because it hasn't stalled the car so it's not urgent for me.
Hehe, you've done more research than me. But whenever I get the car serviced I would disconnect the JB4 and it would not have the idle behavior. But I guess since it didn't affect anything than I didn't investigate further.Thanks for the reply, im told this is a very common issue with the 1.6T engines through Tristan at Cherry - but all I know is that I never noticed it before the JB4 install. Mine went in with HKS MR40XLZ plugs, intercooler reso delete, midpipe replacement and engine pitch mount bushing replacement. Since the work, during idle occasionally ill feel a "bump" like ive just gone over a pothole and the rpm will drop by about 20 or 30 before recovering, all within half a second. It doesnt happen often, but it happens enough for me to notice, probably once or twice every few minutes. No codes, no engine lights, no loss of power or misfires when driving. Have you ever noticed it happening with the JB4 loom disconnected? Im still testing, but mine seems to idle better with it off. Ive seen some posts on the Burger forum for similar issues and no conclusive answers.
Well, in your opinion, what's the least expensive but the best bang for the buck. I want one, but the funds are tight. Thanks for your help.It's relatively cheap. Just go on eBay and search for ultra racing strut forte
It's always been the throttle controller for me. Not sure how much it is in North America, but you can get it for under $200 AUD here.Well, in your opinion, what's the least expensive but the best bang for the buck. I want one, but the funds are tight. Thanks for your help.
Thank you for the information, but I'm really sorry, I should've mentioned that I was asking about the Strut Brace, I apologize for not saying that. ThanksIt's always been the throttle controller for me. Not sure how much it is in North America, but you can get it for under $200 AUD here.
It won't add any power, but it changes the drivability of the car. Instead of stepping you're tapping on the pedal, making for a more fun drive. Changes the way the car drives, both for turbo and non-turbo.
It's not for everyone, mind you. Some people just advise to just step hard on the pedal or it just doesn't suit their driving style.
If you're chasing better handling then I recommend the sway bar. Take the corners better. Strut brace is good as well, in the overall upgrades of handling. But for me the most immediate impact and value for money has been the sway bar.Thank you for the information, but I'm really sorry, I should've mentioned that I was asking about the Strut Brace, I apologize for not saying that. Thanks
Thank youIf you're chasing better handling then I recommend the sway bar. Take the corners better. Strut brace is good as well, in the overall upgrades of handling. But for me the most immediate impact and value for money has been the sway bar.