Man, I love your car's look. It is intimidating. LOLFound an empty street and did a quick shoot
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Man, I love your car's look. It is intimidating. LOLFound an empty street and did a quick shoot
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Pretty much what ForteGT2 said. There are x5 bolts you need to undo AND double sided tape. It's a huge pain. Since I didn't know about the bolts I ended snapping my factory spoiler into many different pieces.This is the spoiler I have. Whatt did you do about the bolt holes?
Lol. Thanks. Most people respect the car until I tell them it's a Kia.Man, I love your car's look. It is intimidating. LOL
Great, thank you so much for the info. Glad to hear yours is holding up steady as well! Do you remember what waterproof tape you used to cover the holes? And does it have to be double sided tape to cover holes?Pretty much what ForteGT2 said. There are x5 bolts you need to undo AND double sided tape. It's a huge pain. Since I didn't know about the bolts I ended snapping my factory spoiler into many different pieces.
The double sided tape used to secure the new spoiler is decent as it will surround the holes, but I patched over the holes as well with water proof tape just in case. Haven't had any leakage issues since the install 2 years ago.
There should be a post with the steps for the picture above so search the forum.
Hi, where and who did you get the eyelids from on ebay? Oh, I did get the rear window spoiler, installed it and it looks great, thank you for your help and info on that.Did I ever post about the eye lids? Got them from eBay back in May, and they came pre-painted in the car color. It's subtle with dark grey. I think a white car would be more of a stand out.
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Considering the eyelids are/were made in Russia I think there may be a problem getting them now...Hi, where and who did you get the eyelids from on ebay? Oh, I did get the rear window spoiler, installed it and it looks great, thank you for your help and info on that.
The makers of the eyelids probably got drafted to fight in the war.Considering the eyelids are/were made in Russia I think there may be a problem getting them now...
I can no longer find them on ebay. There were two versions - one was thinner than the other.
Oh crap! Yep, not gonna get those anytime soon. Thanks for the info, have to go a different route..Considering the eyelids are/were made in Russia I think there may be a problem getting them now...
I can no longer find them on ebay. There were two versions - one was thinner than the other.
The JB4 is decent enough. I'm just waiting until the car is a bit older before I decide to mess with warranty with an ECU tune.Gday Arith, long time lurker just joining the forum now - I have a red 21 hatch that ill probably be posting about soon. Wanted to ask, have you ever experienced a rough idle or anything which feels like misfires during idle, especially since installing the JB4? How's that going for you?
Thanks for the reply, im told this is a very common issue with the 1.6T engines through Tristan at Cherry - but all I know is that I never noticed it before the JB4 install. Mine went in with HKS MR40XLZ plugs, intercooler reso delete, midpipe replacement and engine pitch mount bushing replacement. Since the work, during idle occasionally ill feel a "bump" like ive just gone over a pothole and the rpm will drop by about 20 or 30 before recovering, all within half a second. It doesnt happen often, but it happens enough for me to notice, probably once or twice every few minutes. No codes, no engine lights, no loss of power or misfires when driving. Have you ever noticed it happening with the JB4 loom disconnected? Im still testing, but mine seems to idle better with it off. Ive seen some posts on the Burger forum for similar issues and no conclusive answers.The JB4 is decent enough. I'm just waiting until the car is a bit older before I decide to mess with warranty with an ECU tune.
But yes, I also get rough idle. This is whether it's with the plugs and ignition coils or not. So I assumed it's just normal. I disconnect it for servicing so I can't really get the dealership to investigate. And I'm just too lazy to log it and upload it to the JB4 group or to Burger. Because it hasn't stalled the car so it's not urgent for me.
Hehe, you've done more research than me. But whenever I get the car serviced I would disconnect the JB4 and it would not have the idle behavior. But I guess since it didn't affect anything than I didn't investigate further.Thanks for the reply, im told this is a very common issue with the 1.6T engines through Tristan at Cherry - but all I know is that I never noticed it before the JB4 install. Mine went in with HKS MR40XLZ plugs, intercooler reso delete, midpipe replacement and engine pitch mount bushing replacement. Since the work, during idle occasionally ill feel a "bump" like ive just gone over a pothole and the rpm will drop by about 20 or 30 before recovering, all within half a second. It doesnt happen often, but it happens enough for me to notice, probably once or twice every few minutes. No codes, no engine lights, no loss of power or misfires when driving. Have you ever noticed it happening with the JB4 loom disconnected? Im still testing, but mine seems to idle better with it off. Ive seen some posts on the Burger forum for similar issues and no conclusive answers.
Well, in your opinion, what's the least expensive but the best bang for the buck. I want one, but the funds are tight. Thanks for your help.It's relatively cheap. Just go on eBay and search for ultra racing strut forte
It's always been the throttle controller for me. Not sure how much it is in North America, but you can get it for under $200 AUD here.Well, in your opinion, what's the least expensive but the best bang for the buck. I want one, but the funds are tight. Thanks for your help.
Thank you for the information, but I'm really sorry, I should've mentioned that I was asking about the Strut Brace, I apologize for not saying that. ThanksIt's always been the throttle controller for me. Not sure how much it is in North America, but you can get it for under $200 AUD here.
It won't add any power, but it changes the drivability of the car. Instead of stepping you're tapping on the pedal, making for a more fun drive. Changes the way the car drives, both for turbo and non-turbo.
It's not for everyone, mind you. Some people just advise to just step hard on the pedal or it just doesn't suit their driving style.
If you're chasing better handling then I recommend the sway bar. Take the corners better. Strut brace is good as well, in the overall upgrades of handling. But for me the most immediate impact and value for money has been the sway bar.Thank you for the information, but I'm really sorry, I should've mentioned that I was asking about the Strut Brace, I apologize for not saying that. Thanks
Thank youIf you're chasing better handling then I recommend the sway bar. Take the corners better. Strut brace is good as well, in the overall upgrades of handling. But for me the most immediate impact and value for money has been the sway bar.
I tried ordering these off eBay a while ago. After not receiving them and fighting with them. I ended up figuring out who the manufacturer was. It was a heck of a lot cheaper going through them. ($36 + $34shipping) So $70 from South Korea. Only took 9ish days to get them. They have a bunch of other things I haven't seen before. Just wanted to pass it along.The eBay sellers I bought from no longer sell them (I guess they sold out?). But these are the only ones I've found on searching through eBay, AliExpress, and Amazon. Mine are black plastic, not metal as some are selling just so you're aware. But man, these are not cheap though.
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Hey was looking into getting oil catch-cans for the engine. Which brand did you end up buying through / retailer?First time here and first post as well. I've been slowly building up my sedan. However because it's a daily driver I don't want to go too nuts on it. The good thing is that it's pretty new so stuff available for it is relatively low.
I've updated the mod list as of March 2nd 2021:
Exhaust
Suspension
- Xforce catback exhaust
- RS Style gloss black oval tips
Lighting
- Eibach lowering springs (Pro Kit E10-42-047-01-22)
- Whiteline 22mm rear sway bar (BHR98Z)
Wheels
- All lights replaced with LED's (signal, trunk, interior, license plate, foglights, reverse, dome, map, vanity, glove box)
- LED strips under footwells
Engine
- Rims: V8 V-14 wheels in matt black 20x8.5 (+45mm offset)
- Tires: Kumho PS71 225/35-20 tires
Comfort & Convenience
- aFe Power Takeda Intake
- SaaS Throttle controller
- GFB Respons Adjustable Blow-Off Valve
- JB4 ECU module
- JB4 Fuel Wire Adapter
- MSD Ignition Coils
- King 3D Air Intake Scoop
- Intercooler Resonator Delete
- Oil Catch Cans x2
Cosmetics
- Silent Guard noise insulation
- Tensioned boot spring
- Umbrella hooks
- Cargo net
- Boot liner
- Piaa Sports Horns
- Boot pull strap
- Second cargo net behind the driver's seat
- Boot hook for backpacks and shopping bags
Video Clips
- 15% ceramic window tint
- R Style gloss black duck tail spoiler
- Rear diffuser by Aero.Ball Customs
- Side skirt extensions by Ewing
- Rear window visor
- Vinyl wrapped: red accent on rear diffuser, red accents on front grille, rear panel
- Brenthon badges
- Vinyl wrapped lower interior doors
- Vinyl wrapped lower front lip
- Smoked taillights
- Smoked front & rear signal lights, reverse lights
- Carbon fiber plate over shift knob
- Blackvue DR750X 2 Channel Dashcam
- 2020 Kia Cerato GT With An Axleback Muffler
- 2020 Kia Cerato GT With An Xforce Catback Exhaust (Valve Closed)
- 2020 Kia Cerato GT With An Xforce Catback Exhaust (Valve Open)
- 2020 Kia Cerato GT At Night After Vinyl Tint
- 2020 Kia Cerato GT With Tension Springs
- 2020 Kia Cerato GT With Bonnet/Hood Strut
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